Hi all I'm new so forgive my inability to type etc.
[:I]
I'll keep this brief: ZX 1.9D 95N; hand brake cr*p; going for MOT Monday; have weekend to sort; prob adjusters - yeah?; last time I tried to remove hubs on old ZX weel bearings tried to pull out at same time!
Q1. How can I prevent this.
Q2. What do I do to adjust / unseize the rear brake bits if I can get the hub off.
Many thanks.
Formerly Visa GTi
Ditto ZX 1.9D Aura
Now ZX 1.9D Elation
rear brake adjusters
Moderator: RichardW
-
Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 2
You might need new cables, back brakes are buggers to set up if the cables aren't letting the shoes return fully.
Never had the inside bearing wanting to stay behind on one of these, try a light smear of grease on the stub axle before sliding the drum back on next time.
If the drum wont come off the shoes could have hold of it against a lip that forms on the inside edge of the drum, you then need to back the adjusters off to retract the shoes so they clear any lip, when you get them off, if the drums aren't to bad you can grind the lip off otherwise stick new drums (and shoes) on.
The (rotary type) adjusters aren't clever pieces of engineering and they can be as free as a bird and still not work effectively, best to set the brakes up by trial and error, adjusting by hand a few turns each time and keep trying the drum over the shoes until a good fit with low clearance is obtained, (keep dabbing the footbrake when the drum is put on each time to centeralise the shoes) the cables must be at the fully returned position or you will be wasting your time.
Dave
Never had the inside bearing wanting to stay behind on one of these, try a light smear of grease on the stub axle before sliding the drum back on next time.
If the drum wont come off the shoes could have hold of it against a lip that forms on the inside edge of the drum, you then need to back the adjusters off to retract the shoes so they clear any lip, when you get them off, if the drums aren't to bad you can grind the lip off otherwise stick new drums (and shoes) on.
The (rotary type) adjusters aren't clever pieces of engineering and they can be as free as a bird and still not work effectively, best to set the brakes up by trial and error, adjusting by hand a few turns each time and keep trying the drum over the shoes until a good fit with low clearance is obtained, (keep dabbing the footbrake when the drum is put on each time to centeralise the shoes) the cables must be at the fully returned position or you will be wasting your time.
Dave
If u are struggling to remove the drum, u need to look thro the wheel bolt hole and manually release the pressure of the shoes. using a torch, locate the lever that holds the hand brake cable (bottom rhs) . With a screw driver push this inwards so that it slips behind the shoe thus releasing pressure allowing shoes to move in more and hey presto the drum should come off. adjust as above (assuming the idiot who had the car b4 has not lost /damaged parts of the mechanism which was what was the problem with mine....)
I think that this is an old Peugeot assembly as used on the 205 etc- the bearing inner race is meant to come out, its not a fault.
Plus gas or paraffin will free the adjusters off if they are stuck- don't use WD40- its a lubricant, not a penetrant-not the best thing to have near brakes!!
Make sure the handbrake cables move properly when they are disconnected: anything more than a small amount of resistance will indicate that they need changing.
Just use a tiny amount of coppaslip to prevent future problems.
Plus gas or paraffin will free the adjusters off if they are stuck- don't use WD40- its a lubricant, not a penetrant-not the best thing to have near brakes!!
Make sure the handbrake cables move properly when they are disconnected: anything more than a small amount of resistance will indicate that they need changing.
Just use a tiny amount of coppaslip to prevent future problems.