Having put up with the bouncy ride on my xantia, for the last couple of months, I decided to get the front and rear spheres changed. I called in at service centre ( avoiding the local cit dealer) and asked if they had any experience in changing sus spheres. The guy behind the desk assured me he'd done dozens, so I asked for a quote, after a bit of finger tapping on his keyboard he quoted a price of £60 plus vat per sphere plus labour on top.
So to cut a long story short I ordered 5 spheres off GSF total £109. Tried to do rears this morning but the whole unit began to turn, havn't caused any damage to pipes and after some searching on the forum here realised system needs to be pressurised. I have also ordered the removal tool from gsf which I should get bigining of next week. Is it worth giving the area were the sphere joins with the cylinder a good dose of WD40 before trying again ?[:I]
New Spheres
Moderator: RichardW
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Richard Gallagher
- Posts: 803
- Joined: 31 Oct 2001, 02:36
- Location: South Bucks
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As Jeremy says WD40 can't hurt, but if you have the weight of the car on the rear suspension (ie suspension on max height) the cylinders won't rotate.
Make sure however that the car is supported on ramps and that you only turn the sphere just enough to release it, such as a quarter of a turn otherwise you will look very green, then very flat!!!
Make sure however that the car is supported on ramps and that you only turn the sphere just enough to release it, such as a quarter of a turn otherwise you will look very green, then very flat!!!
The WD will do more good than harm but I usually like to squirt a bit of oil around them too. Given a day or two and particularly if you've had the WD there, it seems to soak into the thread and lubricates it a bit as well as softens any rust that may have formed; has a bit more body to it than the WD.
As Richard points out, be sure you only move the spheres fractionally for starters, then be sure the car is properly supported or over a pit, then totally collapse and depressurise the suspension system before proceeding any further. By that stage, they should screw out by hand. If they don't and feel extremely tight, I'd suggest stopping at that point and asking some questions.
Alan S
As Richard points out, be sure you only move the spheres fractionally for starters, then be sure the car is properly supported or over a pit, then totally collapse and depressurise the suspension system before proceeding any further. By that stage, they should screw out by hand. If they don't and feel extremely tight, I'd suggest stopping at that point and asking some questions.
Alan S
It's NOT the threads !
Waste of money using WD40 etc.
It is the rubber seal that locks the sphere.
You need the correct tool and pressure on the system while you crack the spheres - max 1/8 turn while pressure on.
If you turn the spheres more while pressure on, you WILL wet your pants - one way or the other [:D]
Waste of money using WD40 etc.
It is the rubber seal that locks the sphere.
You need the correct tool and pressure on the system while you crack the spheres - max 1/8 turn while pressure on.
If you turn the spheres more while pressure on, you WILL wet your pants - one way or the other [:D]
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oilyspanner
- Posts: 1246
- Joined: 26 Oct 2003, 16:08
- Location: United Kingdom
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This may be a bit off topic, but when i changed spheres for the 1st time i didn't depressurized the system, because i was affraid of knackering the hidraulic pipes of the front suspension circuit while trying to get the bl**dy pressure release screw to move.
I just unscrewd the spheres slowly and let the oil run out through the threads, until no more pressure was left. By the end, i simply unscrewed them around 1 turn.
It is now i know how lucky i was and that i had someone up there watching for me.
How about a topic with a first timer flashback?
again, sorry for the o/t
I just unscrewd the spheres slowly and let the oil run out through the threads, until no more pressure was left. By the end, i simply unscrewed them around 1 turn.
It is now i know how lucky i was and that i had someone up there watching for me.
How about a topic with a first timer flashback?
again, sorry for the o/t
Harr399,
I have changed my spheres on my Xantia myself and on my last Bx. You DO need ramps, patience, ideally a strap wrench or spere removal tool or in my case, WD40, a lump hammer and cold chisel.
Big tip, give the car a power wash underneath to clean the rear struts and spheres and also the main accumalator, inside the engine bay should be clean, and also do the same for any other sphere you may have.
For the rear, put the car into hight position and put on ramps, chock the front wheels, Now loosen the sphere by putting on a strap wrench or sphere removal tool and tap with a hammer, or as with me, hit the shere at an angle so to make the force turn the sphere anti clockwise. DO NOT undo th sphere once it is loose, do the same for the other rear sphere. Once both are loose, turn th engine off and put into low position to remove any pressure, get a tray and remove the sphere's, make sure that you do not get any muck or crud or any kind into the threads of the strut, get some new LHM fluid and coat the new seal with it, put the seal into the strut and screw in the new sphere, tighten hand tight only (no need to use force as the pressure will make the seal for you). Do both sides.
For the front struts, open the bonnet and undo the front sphere as you did the back and replace as before.
The main accumaltator sphere can be a bugger because of access, but basically, put the front of the car on ramps, put into low position, undo the pressure release bolt on the accumaltor body to release any pressure, and undo as you did the rear spheres, once again make sure you have a clean seal and that it is screwed in hand tight, start the car and tighten the release bolt, the car should rise up and pressurise quickly. If you do have a centre sphere, put the car onto ramps or better still axle stands, but on flat ground, be aware though, sometimes this sphere can be a bugger to loosen and a good soaking with WD40 may be a great help.
Once you have done all the spheres, put the car on all 4 wheels and put the car in high position, check the LHM fluid level and top up if you need to.
Check around each sphere for leaks and if any, tighten the sphere.
Now, with the car running, put the car in low position, leave for about 30 seconds and put into high, leave it there once again for 30 seconds and repeat for about 5 times. This should remove any air that may have got into the system.
Now, take the car for a short ride, eg to a pub car park, raise the car into high position and check for any leaks that you may have. If none, go into pub and buy yourself a well earned drink. If there are any leaks, go into pub and buy yourself a drink and go home and retighten the said sphere(s).
Buy your spheres fro GSF and if your a member of the Citroen Car Club you will get a discount too.
Good luck
Paul
I have changed my spheres on my Xantia myself and on my last Bx. You DO need ramps, patience, ideally a strap wrench or spere removal tool or in my case, WD40, a lump hammer and cold chisel.
Big tip, give the car a power wash underneath to clean the rear struts and spheres and also the main accumalator, inside the engine bay should be clean, and also do the same for any other sphere you may have.
For the rear, put the car into hight position and put on ramps, chock the front wheels, Now loosen the sphere by putting on a strap wrench or sphere removal tool and tap with a hammer, or as with me, hit the shere at an angle so to make the force turn the sphere anti clockwise. DO NOT undo th sphere once it is loose, do the same for the other rear sphere. Once both are loose, turn th engine off and put into low position to remove any pressure, get a tray and remove the sphere's, make sure that you do not get any muck or crud or any kind into the threads of the strut, get some new LHM fluid and coat the new seal with it, put the seal into the strut and screw in the new sphere, tighten hand tight only (no need to use force as the pressure will make the seal for you). Do both sides.
For the front struts, open the bonnet and undo the front sphere as you did the back and replace as before.
The main accumaltator sphere can be a bugger because of access, but basically, put the front of the car on ramps, put into low position, undo the pressure release bolt on the accumaltor body to release any pressure, and undo as you did the rear spheres, once again make sure you have a clean seal and that it is screwed in hand tight, start the car and tighten the release bolt, the car should rise up and pressurise quickly. If you do have a centre sphere, put the car onto ramps or better still axle stands, but on flat ground, be aware though, sometimes this sphere can be a bugger to loosen and a good soaking with WD40 may be a great help.
Once you have done all the spheres, put the car on all 4 wheels and put the car in high position, check the LHM fluid level and top up if you need to.
Check around each sphere for leaks and if any, tighten the sphere.
Now, with the car running, put the car in low position, leave for about 30 seconds and put into high, leave it there once again for 30 seconds and repeat for about 5 times. This should remove any air that may have got into the system.
Now, take the car for a short ride, eg to a pub car park, raise the car into high position and check for any leaks that you may have. If none, go into pub and buy yourself a well earned drink. If there are any leaks, go into pub and buy yourself a drink and go home and retighten the said sphere(s).
Buy your spheres fro GSF and if your a member of the Citroen Car Club you will get a discount too.
Good luck
Paul
When folks talk about tight rear spheres I advise the Plaeides band wrench tool or similar. Also advising loading up the rear of the car to tighten the suspension cylinder into the subframe housing to prevent it spinning (as already mentioned).
I was nearly beaten once by the tightest sphere I've ever known. Went about the job normally and saw the cylinder start to rotate, added the usual 150lb ballast to the loadspace, still moving. Took the load up to 310lb by filling every spare bucket and container of water. Cylinder still moving.
Walked around the car with thoughts of spoiling the cylinder/pipework and fitting a spare with new pipes. Something else came to mind, despite placing most of the weight over the side of the seized sphere the other side rear suspension/tyre was still sharing the load. Bear in mind the car is on high at this point and standing rigid on all four wheels. So I jacked up the opposite side rear and took the wheel off, then let the car down. Because of the car's balance point it doesn't fall over and now ALL that weight at the rear is concentrated to that one cylinder.
The sphere spun straight off, thank goodness.
To do this I had to remove the emergency axle stand support but as the Plaiedes tool was fitted and could be reached without going under the car I judged it safe for this particular situation.
Do remember not to be tempted to go under the car, even for a second, unless axle stands are placed to take the weight.
David
I was nearly beaten once by the tightest sphere I've ever known. Went about the job normally and saw the cylinder start to rotate, added the usual 150lb ballast to the loadspace, still moving. Took the load up to 310lb by filling every spare bucket and container of water. Cylinder still moving.
Walked around the car with thoughts of spoiling the cylinder/pipework and fitting a spare with new pipes. Something else came to mind, despite placing most of the weight over the side of the seized sphere the other side rear suspension/tyre was still sharing the load. Bear in mind the car is on high at this point and standing rigid on all four wheels. So I jacked up the opposite side rear and took the wheel off, then let the car down. Because of the car's balance point it doesn't fall over and now ALL that weight at the rear is concentrated to that one cylinder.
The sphere spun straight off, thank goodness.
To do this I had to remove the emergency axle stand support but as the Plaiedes tool was fitted and could be reached without going under the car I judged it safe for this particular situation.
Do remember not to be tempted to go under the car, even for a second, unless axle stands are placed to take the weight.
David
I'm going to tackle the job on Saturday, just waiting for the sphere tool to arrive at the moment. I'm expecting the rear spheres to be tight, it's a s reg xant with 120k, and before I got it was a company car, no record of any spheres been changed with the service sheets I got when I bought it. Think the best policy is to use every advantage I can ( right tool, full load over rear of car, system pressurised etc.) and hope they fly off.
Will post the outcome over the weekend.
Cheers Paul
Will post the outcome over the weekend.
Cheers Paul