Brake disks
Moderator: RichardW
Brake disks
Can anyone please advise if this front disk need replacement or still can live for a bit more:
[img]C:\Documents%20and%20Settings\modi\My%20Documents\PB290014.bmp[/img]
[img]C:\Documents%20and%20Settings\modi\My%20Documents\PB290014.bmp[/img]
-
- Posts: 627
- Joined: 25 Feb 2001, 02:17
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 2
thanks very much AnderDK, please check the following:
http://www.geocities.com/modibaba/techie.html
http://www.geocities.com/modibaba/techie.html
-
- Posts: 1635
- Joined: 03 Oct 2003, 00:50
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 1
That site link is down at the mo. But as a rule of thumb if the wear lip is more than 4mm on the outer edge then it's time to replace. This is going on the disc being approx 20 to 22mm thick and min thickness being 15 to 17mm. Not much to buy new discs from GSF and the new Brembo range had now got wear indicators on the disc. Two drilled dots, this means all ok but if you can see one it's time to think about changing if you can see none then it's time to change.
-
- Posts: 365
- Joined: 04 Aug 2002, 04:01
- Location:
- My Cars:
thanks all for the comments, the points is i bought the haynes book to check if i can change disks and pads myself, but due to my lack of experience i am a bit hesitated to change the disks, just afraid of anything goes wrong -liquid leak..etc-, pads are easy to change, the link is up now: http://www.geocities.com/modibaba/techie2.html, thanks.
thanks Nick, the link is up now -fingures crossed- http://www.geocities.com/modibaba/techie.html
Not seen the image, but new pads will last a much shorter time with uneven or scored discs, so if they are at all uneven, then that's a good reason to change them anyway.
Generally you don't need to disconnect the hydraulics; in many cases you can simply 'angle' the disc out of the caliper once the pads are out and the pistons wound/pushed back. If you can't do that, then have a rope ready to suspend the caliper from while you work on the disc. That saves disconnecting the pipework.
Generally you don't need to disconnect the hydraulics; in many cases you can simply 'angle' the disc out of the caliper once the pads are out and the pistons wound/pushed back. If you can't do that, then have a rope ready to suspend the caliper from while you work on the disc. That saves disconnecting the pipework.