BX susp. is too soft

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wonderd
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BX susp. is too soft

Post by wonderd »

recently, my bx is too soft on the road, it bounces every time i go over a road bump, I replaced the accumulator sphare not long ago and i also cleaned the reserv. tank and it's filters, what else should i check?
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

First of all : Citaerobics
Then you may suspect the suspension height. The correct drive height is very important for road behaviour.
wonderd
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Post by wonderd »

how do i find the correct height?
I did citrobics and bled the back brakes, I actually suspected that the height of the car is set too high, what is the correct height?
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

The "correct" ride height would largely depend on tyre make/size/type/wear/inflation.
Instead you mark the highest and lowest height somewhere on the wing over the wheel - using a speed marker. The normal driveheight would (should) be exactly at midpoint.
As both front and rear axles have their own height settings - do it separately to both front & rear.
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Post by wonderd »

thank you, will fix the height tomorrow
Elad.
alan s
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Post by alan s »

Elad,
You've got me tossed here mate. You say "too soft" which as has been suggested could be air in the system, or wrong spheres. Have you tried pushing down on the front with the suspension set at normal ride height to check the amount of resistence on a downward push? Wrong spheres, say ones off a CX, will push almost down to the stops and give the car a wallowy type of ride. If that's the case, then did this happen just after a sphere change?
If it is air, then how did the air get into the system? That also needs addressing.
Incorrect height is usually felt more as springy feeling rather than soft. By that I mean the car almost feels like it's on a trampoline which means it doesn't move much at all on the downward push.
The setting for suspension height I think is around 160mm +/- 5mm from the underside of the front crossmember or the rear one to the ground, adjusted of course over a pit, on a ramp or a hoist but it also needs to be calibrated on the front to back adjustment arms first before you start; I hope Anders has kept where I think either he or he & I once wrote this up on a board.
Just a bit more for you to check.
Alan S
wonderd
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Post by wonderd »

hi Alan, there could be air in the system because i had replaced the accumu. not long ago and i also took out the oil reserv. and cleaned it completly including the filters there.
But the thing is that i did the citaerobics and bled the back brakes, so i don't believe that there is air in the system.
The whole thing started actually after the car was in the garage for a cam belt change (that is the reason why i dont trust garages and i don't go there unless i realy have too... i try to learn from you guys as much as i can and do the work myself).
After every time i visit the garage i have suspention problems..
Anyways, going back to my problem, the ride feels springy and the back sinks really fast (minutes) so those are my problems right now i need to fix.
Will try today to set the correct height and will get back here with my results.
thank you for that,
Elad.
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

Before setting the height make sure the height correctors and linkage are nice and free. The shaft operating the height correctors is prone to seizing when it gets dirty with the result that the car doesn't rise to its correct height. You need to get some grease on this shaft . The back one isn't too bad but the front one can be very awkward especially on RHD cars. the best suggestion I have seen on here is to use a brush to get grease onto it. I have used spray grease but this is a bit messy and can wash off. All other moving parts (ie joints) should be greased as well.
You can sometimes see an improvement in ride by raising the car fully and then dropping it to normal height before driving. If this gives an improvement (even for a short time) then the height corrector linkage is sticking.
Remember unless something has come loose (unlikely) the height cannot adjust itself and the linkage is such that the automatic part of it doesn't wear - so it should not need re-adjusting - so you are likely to have another fault. A small amount of sticking makes loads of difference to the ride height and if the car is low it contacts the bump stops much more readily.
Worth checking the spheres etc. start car, open boot and sit in it. car should drop about 6 inches then after about 1/2 minute rise to the originnal position - spheres and height corrector ok (subject to minor sticking mentioned above). Do same with engine turned off (soon after stopping) - car rises - accumulator OK as well - may do it twice!
You should be able to do the same at the front but its not so easy. the front should compress and feel quite soft when bounced. If it doesn't move at all - spheres. Small compression - try lifting it and do it again - ok now - height corrector sticking but not conclusive.)
Have you been adding LHM - this can produce strange effects for a few days before it settles down.
I'm curious about the fast dropping of the back. This isn't normally anything to worry about but! I wonder if the hose from the reservoir to the pump is sound and not letting in air? have a look in the reservoir with the engine running - you may be able to see evidence of air in the form of a milky (albeit green) trace. If this hose leaks it admits air and will not leak to the outside. This air/LHM mix causes all manner of problems. One temporary cure suggested by Anders is to replace the pipe temporarily with a section of clean garden hose and see if there is any improvement. {rear drops: air/oil emulsion separates when car stands, valves will not pass LHM due to surface tension but allow air to pass so allowing pressure drop . . . Garage may have removed pipe to tank when doing cambelt and bent it out of the way - pipe old - cracks?}
jeremy
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Post by alan s »

If they have "adjusted" the height by using the clamps on the rods on the front to rear adjustment, that will cause the rear to drop rapidly.
Wait until Anders gets back with an answer regarding the adjustments that I spoke about in my previous post before you go any further.
You could be a victim of a mechanic not knowing as much about Citroen hydraulic suspensions that he thinks he does. [:p][:p]
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wonderd
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Post by wonderd »

if there is air getting inside that hose between pump and reserv., could it cause the pump to produce less pressure?
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Post by jeremy »

whatever it does produce will be compressible, non-return ball valves may seal but others will not. . .
I think its easier to eliminate than to speculate!
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wonderd
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Post by wonderd »

thanks for the help, i will check that main hose for the milky trace
and then will try to reset the height of the car following your guys's instructions - all that tomorrow morning.
Elad.
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Post by DoubleChevron »

Hi Guys,
I'd be first checking they haven't put an accumulator sphere on one of the front struts(ie: a sphere with no valve in it). This would make the car wwwwwaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy soft and it'd handle like a pile of sh!te [:D]
seeya,
Shane L.
wonderd
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Post by wonderd »

Hello again,
First thing i did this morning was to check for traces of air on the hose from pump to reserv., nothing.
the second i turn the engine off i hear the back moving down slowly.
then i tried reseting the height: checked the current height and found out that it was about 10 mm too high - maybe nothing to worry about buy i fiddled with the clamp on the front rod anyways - result was that i realized i have no idea what i'm doing but at the end the car feels a bit better.
is there any other way to 'adjust' the height but moving the clamp?
(or is that not the way at all?)
NEED HELP!!!
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

If this doesn't help try a search.
MAKE SURE THE CAR DOES NOT FALL ON YOU!!
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=6183
jeremy
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