Hi, my wife was driving my 2000 Xantia HDI (90bhp) earlier. She called me in a panic saying that the car wouldn't move.
Having got to the car, I tried it and found that the clutch pedal action feels ok as does the gearshift mechanism, but when you release the clutch the car doesn't move at all. You can actually put the car in any gear (including reverse) and start the engine with foot off the clutch pedal and the engine starts but the car doesn't even try to move. To me it sounds like the gearbox has gone, but does anyone know of any other problems on these that would cause these symptoms.
I should add that the only time in the past when I had a gearbox go, it was accompanied by some pretty nasty rattles when trying to drive the car. This time there are no excessive noises from the gearbox (a very slight rattle).
Help - am I really going to have to pay out for a new gearbox yet?
Thanks in advance.
Stuart.
2000 Xantia HDI (90) LX - 95000 miles.
HELP - Xantia HDI gearbox problem?
Moderator: RichardW
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RichardW
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Odd one. Sudden total 'box failure is rare, and normally accompanied by some horrible (expensive) sounds. Failure of the gear linkage usually makes the lever all wobbly. Faliure of the clutch usually affects the pedal action, and more often than not results in not being able to disengage the drive.
However, the HDi is fitted with a cable operated box isn't it? I wonder if there is a 'gate' at the bottom of the gear lever that's making you think the change is OK, when in fact one of the cables has bust or popped off. Given the symptoms, I would definitely be starting by looking at the gear linkage.
However, the HDi is fitted with a cable operated box isn't it? I wonder if there is a 'gate' at the bottom of the gear lever that's making you think the change is OK, when in fact one of the cables has bust or popped off. Given the symptoms, I would definitely be starting by looking at the gear linkage.
Richard,
Good thought! I must admit that although the gearbox has had a slight whine in 3rd and 4th gears for a while, it's not that bad - so complete failure seems a bit unlikely.
I hadn't thought about the linkage - I assumed that because the gear lever feels like its changing gears, it must be. But I like your theory. I don't actually know much about the linkage on the HDI unit, but I hope someone on here does (my Haynes Book of Lies doesn't cover the HDI versions).
Cheers,
Stuart.
Good thought! I must admit that although the gearbox has had a slight whine in 3rd and 4th gears for a while, it's not that bad - so complete failure seems a bit unlikely.
I hadn't thought about the linkage - I assumed that because the gear lever feels like its changing gears, it must be. But I like your theory. I don't actually know much about the linkage on the HDI unit, but I hope someone on here does (my Haynes Book of Lies doesn't cover the HDI versions).
Cheers,
Stuart.
no,some xantia HDi's do have cable operated clutches but i think richard is talking about the gearchange mechanism being cable operated.i'm pretty sure that the mechanism dosent have a 'gate' as if you disconect both cables the lever can move about totaly freely,even if this was the problem surely you would be able to feel that it wasnt going into gear properly.
without being able to check it myself i'd think that it was the clutch seeing as there was no noise or puddle of oil(i guess you would notice this) from the gearbox.
without being able to check it myself i'd think that it was the clutch seeing as there was no noise or puddle of oil(i guess you would notice this) from the gearbox.
Try running the engine while the car is in gear, then revving it slightly to see if you can hear the gearbox going round. Revving the car in and then out of gear will be the same if the box isn't rotating, helping to diagnose either a box or clutch problem.
Another highly unlikely idea could be a hub problem - check that one of the driveshafts isn't rotating while the wheel is stationary (almost impossible) or that one of the driveshafts haven't become disconnected in some way from the diff. Not sure if these cars have an intermediate shaft, if so, check the centre bearing.
I've got a funny feeling this won't turn out half as bad as you imagine.
Another highly unlikely idea could be a hub problem - check that one of the driveshafts isn't rotating while the wheel is stationary (almost impossible) or that one of the driveshafts haven't become disconnected in some way from the diff. Not sure if these cars have an intermediate shaft, if so, check the centre bearing.
I've got a funny feeling this won't turn out half as bad as you imagine.
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madasafish
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Hi all,
Following a bit of investigation at the weekend, I think Madasafish has got it right.
Looks like a new clutch is required (oh well, at least it's cheaper than a new gearbox - I hope).
Does anyone have any idea what I should expect to pay for a new clutch to be fitted?
Cheers,
Stuart - York.
2000 Xantia HDI(90) LX - Going nowhere!
Following a bit of investigation at the weekend, I think Madasafish has got it right.
Looks like a new clutch is required (oh well, at least it's cheaper than a new gearbox - I hope).
Does anyone have any idea what I should expect to pay for a new clutch to be fitted?
Cheers,
Stuart - York.
2000 Xantia HDI(90) LX - Going nowhere!
It is quite possible that the box has a similar problem to the one I just did. The clutch release shaft was seized enough that it would not return the clutch to its engaged position. Doesn't take mutch and the pedal might not feel 'wrong'. The car I did had severe slip but it was a hair's breadth away from being totally disengaged.
Most of the time taken to change the clutch is through removing clutter and battling with the weird way the regulator sphere is attached to the gearbox (still convinced it would make more sense to fix it to the block) and then getting the box past the subframe. These would be the same problems whether it was a pull or push clutch. When the box goes back in you don't get the satisfying feel of the splines engaging and clunk as the box comes fully home. This is because you are engaging the release forks with the bearing and pushing against the clutch spring. I am fortunate to have an engine hoist and a big trolley jack. I found it best to jack the engine and hoist the box because you can then swing the thing into place. Without all the clutter to remove and the time taken to manoeuvre the box (gear linkage is tricky) past the subframe it is no more difficult to any other transverse box I have encountered but these things do take time and this is reflected in the cost at a garage. I would seriously contemplate taking the whole engine out next time. I was working on a diesel turbo VSX jobbie so things may vary from model to model.
Most of the time taken to change the clutch is through removing clutter and battling with the weird way the regulator sphere is attached to the gearbox (still convinced it would make more sense to fix it to the block) and then getting the box past the subframe. These would be the same problems whether it was a pull or push clutch. When the box goes back in you don't get the satisfying feel of the splines engaging and clunk as the box comes fully home. This is because you are engaging the release forks with the bearing and pushing against the clutch spring. I am fortunate to have an engine hoist and a big trolley jack. I found it best to jack the engine and hoist the box because you can then swing the thing into place. Without all the clutter to remove and the time taken to manoeuvre the box (gear linkage is tricky) past the subframe it is no more difficult to any other transverse box I have encountered but these things do take time and this is reflected in the cost at a garage. I would seriously contemplate taking the whole engine out next time. I was working on a diesel turbo VSX jobbie so things may vary from model to model.