1997 1.9TD Estate - A Tyre-ing question about handling

[beko1987]

That's not too bad I suppose, but I'll need all the fixing bolts too. A couple of people have said they have a set on breaker engines, so I'll probably go down the second hand route, but not until I've fixed the engine properly on mine. Going to catch Amy when she's in a good mood in the week and broach the subject of Sunday. I can fit my new injector leak off pipe too

[chinkostu]

Women, who'd have em!

Leak off is a doddle to change. Have a sharp knife (small stanley!) To hand incase you need to cut the old ones off!

If you get a decent set of used ones give em a good scrub, saves trying to clean them once fitted!

[beko1987]

Yes the leak offs look easy enough. One had split so I chopped it down and plugged it back on, their all the same age though so I bought a new bit of pipe. On the plus side where it was leaking for 2 weeks its rust proofed the front subframe with 50/50 veg oil and diesel!

[beko1987]

I think I've worked out out!

I turned it on and started examining the engine bay, looking for pipes not on properly, broken wires etc and I have too much slack between the camshaft pulley and fuel pump pulley, the belt is vibrating like mad as it goes over the gap!

Not much I can do about it until Sunday, and it's not slipped or chewed the teeth up yet, I'll have to take the rest of the week slowly and steadily until I can have it all off again!

Can anyone confirm which way the belt goes back on? I did it crank to fuel to cam, then past the waterpump and onto the tensioner. It should all still be times, but I might get it all pegged up, then release the fuel pump sprocket to get the teeth where I need it (then check it's as close as it will be). Or is that a silly idea?

So close, but yet so far! At least it'll be easier this time now I know what comes off and where!

[CitroJim]

That's good you've found something. That's definitely not helping...

From memory, and how I do them generally is to install the new belt in such a way that the last bit to go home is the bit over the tensioner and water pump.

So, start at the Cam then Injection Pump, then Crank and then water pump and tensioner in that order... Make sure the runs between Cam, Injection Pump and Crank are very tight and not a tooth slack if you see what I mean..

Then, when the tensioner is released to tension the belt the only slack to be taken up is that between the crank and water pump and tensioner. The slack there can be taken up as the water pump is the only bit still free to rotate..

Remove the lockers, rotate at least twice, recheck the timing and then check the tension on the longest exposed run is such that the belt can barely be turned 45 degrees between finger and thumb.

Make sure that wen you release the tensioner the tensioner is then re-locked with the pinch-bolt in the newly tensioned position.

[beko1987]

Thanks for confirming! In my excitement to check it all still worked I don't think I checked my slack!

At least I can stop worrying about some unknown issue with it all! It's akin to putting a dyson clutch back together and trapping one of the ball bearings out of its race. It works, but not as good as it should.

I'll stick to low revs for the rest of the week, if it's not slipped yet it's probably not going to (130 miles) but I won't take the p**s!

The random knocking sound I mentioned earlier in the week has stopped anyway, the belt must have stretched a bit in use, a reposition should do it the world of good!

[CitroJim]

Yes, take it very gently and all should be OK... Be ever vigilant...

Second time around it'll be absolutely fine, no worries at all...

[Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur]

its comforting to know that I'm not the only one who had a nightmare with a cam belt change, see my '405 XUD Missing' Forum. My problems started after doing the cam belt, which was part of the reason for mis-diagnosis of what ultimately turned out to be a chaffed fuel pipe.

Never had any trouble getting the locking pins out, so adding my voice to those who've already said that the difficulty removing them suggests issues.

Try a length of stud, bent at 90degrees, and inserted from beneath and behind the Starter Motor, rather than above, to save taking it out. There's a diagonal mark on my block which helps to locate the hole. But I too found it easier to take it out and tippex the flywheel, following the vertical-ish line of the block, so the moment you see the tippex, you should be perfectly aligned.

I've also got a set of 'late' covers & bolts on my spare engine, if you need them; and will probably find myself over your way sometime in the next few months; as I'm only about 50miles west of you. Drop me a message if you don't source them elsewhere and I'll make a memo to drop them by next time I'm that way. Or failing that, pm me for my location and drop by sometime. Its not the location on my Fb page.

That second video, it sounded truly awful, didn't it. If you've not yet re-timed it and refitted the belt, some helpful pix here.... https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 6f3814dc2f
(I did try n upload them to Photobucket, but its playing silly b***'s today)

[beko1987]

All done! A combination of too much slack across the top, and, most embarrassingly, I hadn't done up the tensioner top bolt... 271 miles like that.

All fixed now, she fires better, idles better, the engine shaking is gone! Will go for a drive up the road at some point to put some air in the tyres as one looks a little low, but I think I'm finally there.

No sign of wear to either belt, so I think I've got away with it. I didn't lock the flywheel either, just had the crank pointing to TDC and locked the cam and injector pump.

That's one problem out the way this weekend!

[CitroJim]

That's excellent news

[Timmo]

Great to hear fella! I forgot to do the same on one of my attempts! Think I was so over joyed at getting it right I stopped concentrating on it!

[beko1987]

That's what I did I think. It was 3pm, I had so much to put back together and still didn't know if it would run that when it did run, I packed away and only realised Monday, when I couldn't do anything about it!

Not driven it yet though! Got flashed by a mobile van twice last week and got the paperwork today and yesterday, so will be driving with the sat nav running for the next few days to check if the speedo is out or anything. Bad times ahead! 35 in a 30 both times

[CitroJim]

Got flashed by a mobile van twice last week and got the paperwork today and yesterday, so will be driving with the sat nav running for the next few days to check if the speedo is out or anything. Bad times ahead! 35 in a 30 both times

Ouch sorry to hear that Hope they offer you a speed awareness course rather than points...

Xantia S2 speedos tend to be very optimistic on speed... My S1 Activa speedo on the other hand is spot-on... I have to be careful with that one. S1 speedos do tend to be a bit more truthful...

I must Check on Gabriel's accuracy soon...

[Hell Razor5543]

I have found that (according to my SatNav) the speedo on my C5 is the most accurate I have come across. If I get done for speeding I cannot blame the car!

[chinkostu]

Mine with the standard 14s was about 5mph over at 70 (so 65), with the alloys on it's almost dead on, probably 1mph under!