I definitely had a series of issues that created a smoke-and-mirrors scenario for me. I checked this fuse when it first happened and it was fine.
To recap
- Created a short when trying to fix the rear wiper (it turned out the wiper was so clogged up with muck, that the motor couldn't move it anymore, now fixed, but not refitted due to the following issues) I didn't think much of the short until the car didn't start.
- After the short, the car wouldn't start. When trying to start the car all the lights flashed and the speedo and rev counter were going berserk. In talking to someone, they suggested that I'd spike the ECU and the way all the dials and controls were reacting, this appeared feasible.
- RAC gave me a jump start, and reckon that I'd just damaged the battery. They said, that I would need to replace the battery, as it won't start again or hold a charge. However, the battery did carry on working, even though I bought a new one {never fitted} which I carry around in the boot of a car for a week, just in case. At this point, I thought I've created a short it's done something to the battery but a jump start has sorted things, back to square one.
- After a week or so the car didn't start. I then thought maybe the battery hasn't survived and it does need replacing, which I did, and immediately the car started again.
- At this point, I then went down the rabbit hole of battery light and windows not working and getting several suggestions that the alternator was now at fault. I'm a bit foggy on whether I checked the fuse 28 at this point, but I'm fairly certain I would have done it.
- I had two garages check the voltage coming off the alternator (as well as myself) when the car was idling and both garages said it was under voltage, suggesting that the alternator did in fact need replacing. It is 21 years old, so again this seemed to be feasible.
- Once the alternator had been replaced the battery light was still on & the widow's & clock still not working, however, the voltage when idling was correct.
