1.6hdi oil change - suction method?

[white exec]

I'm guessing that one of the criticalities with this engine is the comparatively small volume of oil the engine operates on. Unless there's something really special about this engine, compared to an engine holding c. 6L of oil, the oil will contaminate something like twice as fast. The small volume also makes 'residual' old oil more of a consideration.

Just as well it's not coupled with Renault's one-time suggestion of 20,000-mile oil change intervals, which even some mechanics were reported not to be happy inflicting on their own cars.

[bobins]

I've no idea what the 'innards' of a 1.6 sump are like, but I do the fleet of cars here at home with a suction pump, and on some of them it can be a struggle to get the pipe to the bottom of the sump. It takes a good few goes before I'm satisfied that I've got all the oil out. It's almost as if there's a baffle in the way preventing the pipe going cleanly to the bottom of the sump.

[Andle]

This modification lets you get a lot more out

Interested in what forum members think of this mod?

Seems to work - but in the long term - could there be negatives that make it unwise?

[elma]

I think that's a prity pointless way of stressing thin metal. If you drain a sump and then remove it there's bugger all left behind anyway. If anyone ever went near my sump plug with an impact gun I'd be most unhappy.

[white exec]

It's almost as if there's a baffle in the way preventing the pipe going cleanly to the bottom of the sump.

A good few engines do have a horizontal baffle plate above the bottom of the sump, to prevent the body of oil from sloshing upwards and hitting the fast-rotating crank. This can presumably get in the way of some oil suction attempts, although I'd expect the dipstick tube to aim at a hole through it.

[RichardW]

Having seen the inside of a 1.6 HDi sump 3 times more than I wanted to, I can confirm:

1. There are no baffles
2. There was no sludge, even though each time I had it off was because the oil pick up was blocked
3. Even with a cold drain, there was not more than an egg cup full of oil left in the bottom

[uncle buck]

There was more than an egg cup full came out of that sump.

The amount is around 200 - 250 ml


Cheers.

[Andle]

Same Car:

Picasso Xsara
1.6 HDI VTX
92 bhp
9HXC
DV6TED4
2007
80,000k

Asking for help:

Oil filter:
A) What is the size of the socket needed, to remove it.
B) Which way am I turning the cover to remove it?
C) How do I then remove the filter from the cap (Twist or just pull?)
D) Do I simply push the new filter onto the cap?
E) Correct torque when tightening cap?
F) Any tips for this job are most welcome

Sump Nut & Seal

1) Purchased fresh sump seal - one side is smooth and without any folds/breaks in it - the other side has a fold all the way around. Which side should be touching the sump pan when replacing?

2) What is the correct torque for tightening the sump plug?

[GiveMeABreak]

A) No Idea - not stated, but should be pretty standard.
B) & C) Again it doesn't say.
D) You must replace the Seal (5) in the diagram and this needs to be lubricated with engine oil and use your finger to ensure it is correctly seated.

E) The torque is 2.5 daNm

Drain plug tightening is 2.5 daNm, see if you can determine fitting position from the diagram. Make sure you have a new seal too.

[Andle]

Marc,

Many thanks for your input.

Can i please ask you to confirm that the torque for both the sump seal & the oil cap is the same.

I.e - are they both, definitely 2.5 daNm?

[GiveMeABreak]

Yes, definitely.

Reference	Designation	Stage	Tightening torque
(21)	Turbocharger lubricating pipe	Tightening	3 daNm
(22)	Turbocharger lubricating pipe	Tightening	3 daNm
(23)	Oil pressure switch	Tightening	3,2 daNm
(24)	Dipstick	Tightening	0,8 daNm
(25)	Oil level sensor	Tightening	2,7 daNm
(26)	Piston skirt spray jets	Tightening	2 daNm
(27)	Oil filter cover	Tightening	2,5 daNm
(28)	Oil filter support	Tightening	1 daNm
(29)	Coolant/oil heat exchanger	Tightening	1 daNm
(30)	Drain plug	Tightening	2,5 daNm
(31)	Oil suction strainer	Tightening	1 daNm
(32)	Sump (Not DV6UTED4)	Tightening	1,2 daNm
(33)	Oil pump assembly (*)	Pre-tighten	0,5 daNm
(33)	Oil pump assembly (*)	Tightening	0,9 daNm
(*) Follow the tightening sequence

[Paul-R]

Take care to make sure that the seal (O-ring) is the correct size if buying non-PSA parts. The filter I first bought for our 308 was too small in cross-section and leaked so I had to replace it.

[RichardW]

Oil filter:
A) What is the size of the socket needed, to remove it.
B) Which way am I turning the cover to remove it?
C) How do I then remove the filter from the cap (Twist or just pull?)
D) Do I simply push the new filter onto the cap?

A 27mm - you need to remove the air inlet pipe, and then use a long extension. Get a decent fitting socket as it is only plastic.
B Std RH thread, so anticlockwise
C It 'just' pulls off. Wear gloves!!! There is a video on youtube where someone used a toilet roll centre as a tool to release the clips, but I've always managed to get them off with a combination of a pull and wiggle it side to side
D No. The filter has a lug on the bottom of it - fit it into the filter housing ensuring that the lug engages in the hole in the housing, then screw the lid on. It's quite tricky to get the lid started as you have to push it down onto the paper at the top of the filter element to get the threads started.

[Paul-R]

Also, when you release the oil filter housing unscrew a few turns and then wait for the oil in the filter to drain down into the sump. Saves an awful lot of mess!

[Andle]

Getting a proper seal:

Obviously the oil filter cartridge needs to seal properly against the casing once the casing is closed & torqued.

Without a proper seal - carbon/flakes etc could bypass the paper cartridge.

What steps can be taken to ensure the mating surfaces of the housing - are clean and free of any debris/grit - so that the cartridge seals against it fully? Is it jut the base of the housing that needs attention - or the removable cap too?