Irish Activa

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 21 Apr 2010, 12:44

Yes, I had to trim the inner sleeve as the bottom of it was obstructing the passage to the spout of the XM gaiter. Had I not done so, I expect the gaiter would have filled with LHM until the build-up of pressure inflated the it and uncovered the spout passage. It was a bit risky to allow it to work like this and I felt it was better to play safe and keep the spout open at all times.

The gaiter itself is big and a bit bigger than expected. A smaller one (in height) would have been far better but when I looked at the BX parts lists I could not find any gaiter listed.

I hope to start doing a ram for real this evening... Got to remove it from the car first...

Unread post by **Dommo** » 21 Apr 2010, 16:39

I'm very impressed with what you've come up with there Jim. Hope my half strip down of a ram was slightly helpful? Unless you'd done that before I did!

If you can make a fix like this for the rear ram Jim I'd definately give it a go, it's the only (slightly) weeping part of the car now which is pretty good going!

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 21 Apr 2010, 17:17

Dommo wrote:Hope my half strip down of a ram was slightly helpful? Unless you'd done that before I did!

Your strip was the catalyst for me Dom, it showed the internal construction for me and so yes, it was incredibly helpful, not just slightly

You, Robert and Lefteris all contributed massively. Without you all I'd not have come this far...

I've looked at a similar solution for the rear ram and it's quite possible mainly on the lines of the front but with some detailed differences...

Stay tuned!

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 26 Apr 2010, 08:51

I did the modification on a rear ram this weekend and with some success. It's actually easier than doing a front ram and the basic procedure is the same. The top balljoint is a bit more difficult to remove though.

Two things I found: It's a good idea, once the top balljoint is off, to wrap the top of the ram piston in tape to protect the oil seal in the top of the black sleeve as it's removed and replaced.

The black sleeve is very tight on the ram proper because it's held by staking it into two depressions. If you look, you'll see tow dimples on the sides of the black sleeve, near the top. When replacing, line them up again.

Getting the gaiter back on is a lot easier than taking it off was!!!

Although I've taken some pictures, I can only post one at present...

The ram is nack on the car and just awaiting the same mods to be carried out on the weepy front one and then we'll know how successful these mods are...

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 05 May 2010, 11:28

I'm pleased to report success in my ram overhaul endeavours and both front and rear ones are now nicely LHM-tight. It looks like a success, fingers crossed.

I'll be writing up the full repair procedure on my website as soon as I have some time. Don't hold your breath though. Time is not something I have in any great quantity at the moment and nor for the foreseeable

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 08 May 2010, 18:31

CitroJim wrote:
I'll be writing up the full repair procedure on my website as soon as I have some time. Don't hold your breath though. Time is not something I have in any great quantity at the moment and nor for the foreseeable

Thanks to the rain and cold (Summer is here

) I have today written up this guide to ram repairs on my website...

Unread post by **Dommo** » 09 May 2010, 01:14

Despite not replying, I have been reading through these posts and think it's very useful what you've done here Jim - I may treat my rear ram to an XM leakage return spigot one day!

robert_e_smart · Unread post by **robert_e_smart** » 09 May 2010, 18:56

Great write up Jim. This is very valuable. I am still waiting for new return gaiters from my local dealer.

Do you think that the rear ram could be repared in situ on the car by undoing the upper balljoint part, and leaving the lower part of the ram secured to the car?

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 09 May 2010, 19:14

I see no reason at all why not Robert. After the ram is released at the top and laid down, there is loads of room. Certainly better than removing it to do the job...

robert_e_smart · Unread post by **robert_e_smart** » 23 Jul 2010, 22:51

Hi Folks,

A bit of an update. I have been making some good progress with her Activaness. I have finally got the front ram to stop leaking, (thanks to Jim showing me his test ram at the CCC National), the rear ram bush replaced, and the inner cv gaiter changed.

All I have to do now is get the blasted car to stop its shuffle! Thats tomorrow's job. I need to check that I haven't messed something up when I changed the roll corrector link rods and their blocks.

Hopefully it will be MOTd by the end of the week if all goes to plan.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 25 Jul 2010, 09:39

Excellent stuff Robert

To cure the shuffles, check that the roll corrector mechanism is very free to move across all surfaces and set the initial bottlescrew adjustments such that there is a tad of preload in the springs on the corrector mechanism. (i.e. adjust to take all play out of the mechanism).

Then carefully adjust both bottle screws to achieve a level car. Note that the locknuts on one side of each bottlescrew are left-hand threads.

These are the official Citroen words on how to set up the mechanism.

Note that the initial 74mm setting is only a start!

robert_e_smart · Unread post by **robert_e_smart** » 25 Jul 2010, 11:30

Thanks Jim,

I was going to concentrate my efforts on getting the slack out of the roll corrector mechanism. The mechanism is well lubed up, but the springs aren't under any load at all.

I have the French version of the levelling instructions, and was quite amused to see that the diagram of the mechansim under the car was leaning off to the right as well!

http://activaclubfrance.free.fr/Entreti ... 0SCCAR.pdf

Once I get this done, and engine service, and replacing the ignition switch (I have to use a wire connected from the starter solenoid to the battery to start the car!) will be all thats left to do on the car.

robert_e_smart · Unread post by **robert_e_smart** » 25 Jul 2010, 14:50

After some more fettling, I have the car shuffling a lot less. The drivers side of the car will move up and down over a 3mm range, the passengers side will remain cirtually level, perhaps a <1mm movement. The difference between each side is a 4mm difference pending the shuffle. I'm happy enough with that, as long as the MOT tester doesn't notice it or make a fuss when it comes to testing the headlamp alignment.

robert_e_smart · Unread post by **robert_e_smart** » 26 Jul 2010, 20:01

The Activa passed its MOT this evening.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 26 Jul 2010, 20:35

robert_e_smart wrote:The Activa passed its MOT this evening.

Brilliant news Robert

Now enjoy!