Peugeot 207 1.6hdi (New edition to the fleet)

[Huskyxantia]

Cheers paul i see your point and i didnt think of that , but Yes my bearings are in the drum , so fingers crossed I should be ok , i will try backing the handbrake adjustment right off first and see if that would be the way to get the drum off, ive seen videos of drums being pulled of with hardly no effort . When I tackle this job I'm going to take plenty of photos of my findings .

[PaulC5]

A photo with the drum off before touching the shoes is essential so you do not need to remember where the springs and adjusters go. Before backing off the hand brake adjuster you might be lucky and the drums come off. I often clean the brakes on our cars and file off any lips so the drums come off easily.

First car I had (a Viva) the rear brakes and hand brake were useless and it turned out there was a large lip on the drum so the shoes did not press flat in the drum. Took some time before I found the cause being new to car maintenance.

[Huskyxantia]

I much prefer the other setup discs and pads , much easy, but once these get done then all should be ok for a few thousand miles

[Huskyxantia]

Here's one i done 3 yr back & I've just found it ! It was another 207 so im going to compare this with what I've got now

[PaulC5]

This is the same as for our previous C3 and the Cactus. My previous post about having a hub with bearings in is wrong (it is a couple of years since I last did the job), the bearings are in the drum and wheel bolts are used but the puller will still work if needed.

[Huskyxantia]

So I drove the 100 plus mile trip with nothing in the boot and no parcel shelf and the noise was still there how ever I by accident found that the seat belt ancor points seemed to look lose and the metal belt part was rattling and making a very close sound to what I hearing, ive tighten these up both sides and ive wrapped rubber gloves around them as to stop any sound, I won't know if this has worked till tomorrow, I had some help from a little cat as seen in the photos

No this wasn't the cause either ! Just incase any one reading or researching there own symptoms. Better still check as the near side rear was not as tight as the of side! This was a re call many yr ago

[Huskyxantia]

Don't be alarmed, I see an outline of a soldier....I see dead people....

lol were you hiding at ryan ?

[Huskyxantia]

Update, service done oil & filters, had a nice bit of sunshine and it was warm , so I thought have a go at the near side rear brake drum, new puller works a treat, took on advice from Paul on here , I slacken off the handbrake, jacked up the car after loosening the wheel bolts , up with car off with wheel, out with new hub puller ,my word a well balanced and made cheep piece of kit . Here's the best bit , the shoes were over adjusted so it was a horrible job but I got the lot off I had to pulled the pins through the holding clips to get any movement but I muscled through and off it came
How on earth did the wheel ever turn , I slacken the adjuster right off and found new fixing pins and springs and that silly locking washer and got it all back on , the brake shoes are worn but not enough to cause any concern . Everything looked clean , the drum has a lip less than 1mm. I adjusted the shoes up just to cause little drum dragged , the wheel bearing is the problem and judging by this blue color on the bearing , heat damage, the new drums I purchased are to small so they have been accepted for return , I purchased a new wheel bearing 29.99 but got it half price with a discount code, comes with retaining clip , hub nut and dust cap , when I put the drum back on I twisted it like turning a steering wheel and hello ! The same noise could be heard what im hearing in the car, when I did it slower you can feel the bearing is the problem, so .... all I need to do is a wheel bearing ...for now, sorry for spelling , ive had a hard few days wifes in hospital and im running here there and everywhere on me todd... im just relived I found the cause , once the new bearing gets here then that can be done , im looking forwards to using my big bearing press , just like what Jim's got

[MattBLancs]

Good work there Husky

[Huskyxantia]

Thanks Matt , im finding evidence the car has been looked after but as I say the brakes were over adjusted, ive tightened the slack op on the lever end but not to much its holding on the 5th notch and feels more free thst before , it was pretty firm before but now feels nice , I did notice as I quickly washed and changed to get back up to the hospital, the car felt like it has less drag, oh and another thing the hole that has a bunge in this is ment to give access to the adjusting part , well this don't there isn't one , unless I'm wrong but , if I am id like someone to let me know how to slacken the shoes drum end and where it would be helpful.

[PaulC5]

The lip on the drum I file down each time so between servicing it never gets large enough to make getting the drum off difficult. Also helps when setting the auto adjusters since the drum has to be put on and removed quite a few times.

The type of auto adjuster in your photo is identical to the ones on our C3 and Cactus things I found from doing the job might help.
The adjusters work when the ends are pressed together so with the drums on the handbrake has to be off and the pedal pushed down and released up many times so the cylinder moves the shoes out and back in to press the adjuster. It also needs the handbrake lever on the shoe to have its stop peg against the shoe but at most less than 1mm which means if the handbrake adjuster nut is set to give more of a clearance than 1 mm the adjuster will not auto work. If more than 1 mm I also found the drum difficult to remove. I have found it best to set the adjuster with the drum off by turning its cogged wheel so the shoes just slightly rub when the drum is put on and then the final adjustment done by lots of pedal pushing.

The handbrake with the auto adjuster set should start to rub the shoes on the first click. Before adjusting the handbrake adjuster nut press the pedal 3x, pull the handbrake on 5x, remove the drum to check its lever stop peg is against the shoe (or less than 1 mm) and if not adjust the handbrake nut.

The C3 had 9 inch drums and the hub nut a washer on it, this nut had to be tightened to 300 Nm before it was peened over. The Cactus has 8 inch drums and the hub nut has no washer and tightened to 245 Nm before being peened over. Due to peening the nuts have to be replaced each time.

[Huskyxantia]

Excellent thank you Paul brilliant bit of helpful advice and knowledge
Sure will be a good reference point for anyone else tackling the same job.

Once the new wheel bearing arrives I will swap that old one out for the new once I made the discovery early today I though well this should be ok just doing a wheel bearing , the new drums can go back , I did say to the supplier they won't fit but they insisted they did , no wonder they didn't argue about the return . Least I know what's on the car and with out full history of it it looks like these were done id say just about 3 yr ago so im ok for a few more miles yet . Im going to check another set with the measurements I took of the ones on the car , so the correct one will be sent also thinking handbrake cables are cheap enough so it might be worth getting a pair of them , the brake cylinder was in very good condition too so no worrys about them either .

[CitroJim]

Excellent work Husky and pleased you've found the source of the noise

[Huskyxantia]

Thanks Jim, had a suspicion of the bearing once the hub was off totally confirmed it. Raining again this morning so glad I got it all beck together yesterday, it can still be driven for the time being . New one should be hear Tuesday

[MattBLancs]

oh and another thing the hole that has a bunge in this is ment to give access to the adjusting part , well this don't there isn't one , unless I'm wrong but , if I am id like someone to let me know how to slacken the shoes drum end and where it would be helpful.

Hole with a bung in it sounds like the (drum in disk) adjustment method for 406 rear brakes. They aren't auto adjust (as they are just handbrake shoes) and it's keyhole surgery with a flat screwdriver. Pain in the bum! I always wonder why it's a tiny (say 10mm) hole to faff about through rather than a nice big 20mm or so, where you could see what you're adjusting more easily!? (On the assumption they already have to do a spot of balancing for the existing hole??)