Huskyxantia wrote: 07 Jan 2026, 09:24
Is the head gasket ok ? You have done all the obvious things to get to the route of this but your still having problems . Some might suggest adding some jptype of system cleaner into the fuel tank to see if that might help , ive just though has this catalic converter ? That hissing noise could be blockage not so much air being drawn into the sytem
Yes. The headgasket is ok. The hissing noise is there since the air filter housing has a few loose screws.
I ve been also thinking about to add some cleaner to the fuel tank, maybe it would clean out some s**t.
PaulC5 wrote: 09 Jan 2026, 15:29
Cam shaft sensors can also fail similar to crank shaft ones, when hot they may not work but once cool work again. Could just be a wiring problem where occasionally a bare wire touches something metal.
Rhothgar wrote: 11 Jan 2026, 11:46
The first thing I would be focussing on in more detail from the brief skim of the information you have provided is the diesel lines that are appear to have been taped. I would look at that area and determine why they have been taped, remove, inspect and replace tape if necessary.
Those taped fuel lines were replaced in the first place, when this issue appeared, yet nothing has changed. So those are brand new fuel lines in the engine bay area.
MattBLancs wrote: 11 Jan 2026, 13:11
Yep, agree looking at those taped pipes would be first port of call
Although:
The garage told me that they changed the hand fuel pump (next to the air filter housing) + the diesel lines (yes, under the airfilter housing too), airfilter, EGR valve (to Nissens) and put into an OEM gasoline filter.. They mentioned that the diesel fuel lines were taped together on some parts with insulating tape. Which was strange...
Reading that again, it could be the taped pipes were those replaced by the garage??
Head gasket and such - I can't see that giving an intermittent issue like this (i.e. why would it perform faultlessly for such long periods?)
I wonder if an electrical issue - intermittent break in the wiring that is only occasionally breaking connection. The "interaction" with stuff in the engine bay (fuel filter replacements etc) is making the connection again for a bit.
It's such long intervals between perfect running and playing up, my mind is tenting more to something electrical that's flicking between good and bad.
Tell us more about the periods when it won't restart for several hours: what is happening then? Just "dry cranking" without any attempt to start?
Have you tried a tow start in this condition? That'd spin engine (and hence fuel pump) at a faster rate. I think you said you'd done this when being recovered? (And just idling whilst towed it died a few times too)
When it shuts down, its just cranking, but not starting at all. In the beginning the shut down issue was only a few minutes long.. lately it took up to 2-3 hours to start again. Recently I changed the crankshaft sensor. It still shut down, but the time to restart, has been decreased to 10-15 minutes.
Once when I was on the highway and the engine shut itself down, I changed to the 4th gear and released the clutch. The engine revved up, the engine started, and started hesitating heavily and shut itseld down again....
Yes, you remember right. During towing and being on idle it shut itself down a few times.
I took it to a peugeot specialist garage. They went for a test drive and after 50km the car shut down, but after being towed back it came back to life.
They started to check ALL THE WIRINGS and connectors in the car, measured all the sensors, and they found out that the connector of the fuel rail pressure WAS MELTED! Not the whole part, but ONLY ONE SIDE OF THE CONNECTOR, CLOSER TO THE SENSOR ITSELF. IT WAS MELTED! (it was probably when the EGR blowed out and the exhaust gas melted the connector..
They replaced the whole connector, including housing, wiring, and EVEN THE PINS(!). After that, they went for a test drive and got shut down again, but shortly after it came back to life. They drove for an other 180km (112 miles) without issue. They insisted to give the car back. I asked them, what live data did you get, when the car got shut down.
They said: "The measured fuel pressure was 0 bar, but after a few minutes it was measured properly!"
I asked them.. Dont you think you should replace the rail sensor? They told me, that they checked the sensor and it showed up okay and working... I said... Nah! Please change the sensor to a new one!
AND GUESS WHAT! IT WORKS!
It was the blinking sensor that started to die since 2024 may + probably the blown out EGR valve melted its connector in 2025 january. The sensor measured crazy amounts of pressure, as you could see above, YET the car only stopped when it was too low fuel pressure. The car NEVER SENT CODES about the fuel pressure being too high, and also the rail sensor - WHEN IT WAS TESTED SEPARATELY - WORKED 100% FINE, and NEVER SHOWED UP AS A FAULTY! ONLY FAULT WE GOT IS the TOO LOW FUEL PRESSURE + when the car stalled the measured pressure became 0 bar!
Since we replaced this sensor it works!
ALSO!
THE CAR MEASURES THE CONSUMPTION literally 100% right!
Since I had the car, the showed consumption was off, with 1 or 1.3 liters/100km. The screen showed 4 liter, in reality it was 5 or 5.3 liter/100km. SINCE WE GOT THE NEW SENSOR THE SCREEN MATCHES THE REALITY! If it shows 5.2 liters/100km its exactly 5.2 liters/100km in reality!
I have been tested it with 2000km, including highway ramps and hills, higher speed (150km/h) and those "misfiring" symptoms disappeared completely! So I consider this as working.
For the future peugeot 206 1.4-1.6-2.0hdi owners, how to diagnose whether this is the issue.
If you have a big screen in the middle you can see your consumption by pressing the button on the right side of the windshield vipers switch
1. Fill the cars tank 100% (until its full and after that for the first click! So full tank +1 click, since the diesel tend to creates foam when filled up fast, therefore it could not fill up 100%) and reset the kms by pressing the button on the right side of the windshield wiper switch and drive it for 200-300kms at least!
2: Check the consumption showed on the screen and fill up the car. (until its full and after that for the first click! So full tank +1 click, since the diesel tend to creates foam when filled up fast, therefore it could not fill up 100%)
3: By filling up the car fully (with the method written above), compare how much fuel did it use ACTUALLY based on the driven kms.
4: If there are any offset (in real it consumed 5.3 liters/100km, but showed different amount (4.X or something on the screen)-->rail sensor probably is about to die soon!
Note: I had 1-1.3 liters offset, after the new sensor it become down to 0.1-0.2 offset, BUT if I fill the car up to full +1 CLICK(! important!) then the offset is 0!
The car itself never tell you that the sensor is faulty, it will never shut down with "too high fuel pressure" (even though it can mesure like 1900bar) and even (for me the egr melted the connector house) the connectors and pins could look normal. If you wanna make sure, you change the connector housing (plastic), pins and cables/wires + the rail sensor itself ONLY ORIGINAL PARTS! ONLY BOSCH! (or whatever was the original). Aftermarket sensors could fail soon!
If you cant switch the big screen in the middle, cause you cant press the button... You have to replace the button only, to one with a spring. It costs like 5 pounds or so, replace it at home and TA DAAA! You can see all the data.
Be sure to double check the connector wiring that they are supposed to have replaced. It sounds like a similar issue with one of my fog light connectors. It's a shame you don't have a photograph of old connector.
In one of my fog light connectors the plastic has melted internally so you wouldn't know from the outside and so was created by a localised excessive current draw I guess.
