Vikis wrote: 12 Sep 2025, 09:24
I checked CAN H & CAN L, at both of ECUs, ABS and engine I get 120ohms resistance,l
There is your problem, there is an open circuit in the CAN.
Can you get to the ABS connector?
Need to do some checking of the CAN there.
I will need to look at another diagram for the ABS to get the pinout.
Can you disconnect the ABS/ESP ecu & do a resistance check across pins 19 & 35 of the connector then can you disconnect the 6 way Blue connector on the steering wheel controls & resistance check across pins 24 & 40 of ABS ecu.
Both should be 120 ohms
Blue connector on the steering wheel controls. How to access it? Do I need to take out the wheel airbag to access it?
So I disconnect the ABS ECU, which is near the engine ECU, measure the resistance between pins 19 and 35, then disconnect the steering wheel controls and check the resistance again at the ABS connector pins 24 and 40 with the steering wheel controls disconnected?
Vikis wrote: 12 Sep 2025, 17:42
Blue connector on the steering wheel controls. How to access it? Do I need to take out the wheel airbag to access it?
I would imagine just removing the steering column cowlings should allow you to see the connections on the back
Vikis wrote: 12 Sep 2025, 17:42
So I disconnect the ABS ECU, which is near the engine ECU, measure the resistance between pins 19 and 35, then disconnect the steering wheel controls and check the resistance again at the ABS connector pins 24 and 40 with the steering wheel controls disconnected?
Correct, the steering angle sensor is tapped into the CAN before it goes to the BSI so if left connected may give a false reading.
ABS ECU disconnected, between pins 19 and 35 - 120 ohms. I disconnected the blue 6-pin connector on the steering wheel, at the ABS ECU between pins 24 and 40, still 120 ohms.
Is this the steering wheel controls connector?
Last edited by myglaren on 12 Sep 2025, 19:39, edited 1 time in total.
Reason:Image corrected
Strange, as that's what i would expect to see if the CAN lines are good.
I wonder if there was a bad connection at one of the ECU connectors? Plug all ECUs back in and re check total CAN resistance hopefully its gone down to 60 ohms.
I would have battery connected doing this check and all ECUs must be plugged in when checking.
Hi Wheeler, I have a C8 2005 2.0HDI and I have the same problem however my car cranks over.
Got out of it 8PM last Sunday no issues, went to start Monday lunchtime, as i turned key to start, central locking 'clunked' and elec fold mirrors whirred briefly (?!) Followed by Immediate "beep" with "immobiliser fault"message on LCD display. Tried spare key. After numerous cranking attempts It's now in economy mode, good new battery, I charged it for 18 hours, still in economy despite fully charged new exide battery.
On the day it happened, before I did anything, and before it went into economy mode, i called out a professional mobile key coder and his scanner said "bsi pass/no fault" & "2 keys recognised" however, he couldnt read ECU, was just a weird orange icon on his screen next to where it said ecu, he said ECU was dead, also, no EML at all on cycling ignition when it worked before, so after research,online, i replaced BSM for used of same part number, checked every single fuse in the car (BSI, BSM, Battery compartment) including all Maxi's, unplugged ecu and ABS ecu to check pin corrosion and anything obvious, same for all BSI plugs, and same for BSM plugs, even removed BSI, opened that up just to have a look for anything obvious on PCB, BSM / BSI / ECU Multiplugs all very clean and dry. So that's what I've tried so far. I desperately need my car, Please help! Thanks. .
