DV5 Diesel Chain & Belt

[Doo]

Hopefully its not done any damage
Are you saying there are actually 2 round holes the same size on the crank sensor pick up plate? Cant think i have ever noticed.

Hi, there is only one hole, but two detents. I cannot, for the life of me, find any other orifice to inset a locking pin for the flywheel other than 45 degrees from zero (where the reluctor wheel "should" be set.

It states ( and my friends Autodata states same thing, "lock the crank at the flywheel" and there is a video/picture somewhere showing the hole underneath at the centre of the flywheel near the exhaust flexi. I turned the crank round until I located the only apparent hole to insert a locking pin, at 45 degree's from zero.

I did everything that video (with the ghastly music) shows except I wore gloves and no dangly bracelets or watches.... I know the chain is correctly located & when you turn the cam cassette over, the pin that locates the pulley on the cam points to the locking point on the head. Neither the cam or the fuel pump moved as I had originally locked them at the reluctor wheel at 0 degrees (or straight up if you prefer). The fuel pump has to be locked as it is set for idle and if it's out, apparently it affects emissions ).

It doesn't matter where I set the crank, it turns over with no contact of valves (6 turns test by hand). But whether at 0 or 45 degree's, the correlation between the cam & crank sensor is off.

I reiterate, I could find NO hole in the flywheel to lock it EXCEPT at 45 degree's (give or take a degree). I am clearly missing something, but with all the sh!te going on, I can't seem to grasp what.

Basically, they took the DV6 and made it even worse (chain snapping nonsense! )

Right at the start, I locked the timing once I had set it. Except for the flywheel as at that stage I couldn't locate the locking hole at 0 degree's, but the reluctor was locked.

The only other possibility is a damaged reluctor.... But it was never touched once the pulley was off & the crank sensor was off. There is no visible damage

[Doo]

You should be able to see the engine rpm on the scan tool - but likely it is working as otherwise they tend to not crank properly.

I went into live data and while cranking, the crank sensor is showing the revolutions to be in the region of 190rpm which is slightly under the 200rpm expected for this engine. So it is working... Which would suggest the reluctor wheel is also working.

[wheeler]

Just to clarify, Any locking hole on the flywheel is solely for locking/immobilising the crank to loosen & tighten the crank pulley bolt. The flywheel hole is not for setting the timing. The timing on the crankshaft is set using the pin through the reluctor ring only, around 12 o'clock position.
I dont think i have ever used the locking hole on the flywheel as i would normally use an impact gun for loosening/tightening the crank pulley.
For reference below where the flywheel lock hole should be and where the crank setting hole should be.

[Doo]

Just to clarify, Any locking hole on the flywheel is solely for locking/immobilising the crank to loosen & tighten the crank pulley bolt. The flywheel hole is not for setting the timing. The timing on the crankshaft is set using the pin through the reluctor ring only, around 12 o'clock position.
I dont think i have ever used the locking hole on the flywheel as i would normally use an impact gun for loosening/tightening the crank pulley.
For reference below where the flywheel lock hole should be and where the crank setting hole should be.

Your pics show EXACTLY what I did.

The reluctor wheel set at 0 deg and the pump, cam etc.

The hole for locking the flywheel doesn't appear to do anything until 45 degree's!

I even checked with my borescope camera. There is NO hole in the flywheel when the reluctor is locked

Knowing F RD, they probably stole a flywheel from a food mixer & chucked it on

That is my whole dilemma. The hole in your first photo leads to nowhere

Edit.... Is it even possible the flywheel is mounted wrong

[wheeler]

The hole in the flywheel is not meant to line up when the timing is set.
When the crank is pinned correctly via the reluctor plate the flywheel hole wont line up.

[Doo]

The hole in the flywheel is not meant to line up when the timing is set.
When the crank is pinned correctly via the reluctor plate the flywheel hole wont line up.

OK. That's fine. But confused the heck out of me. I watched the only tutorial (to make sure as this isn't a DV6) I could find, in German dubbed into English!

He said to lock all the usual suspects AND the flywheel which is what threw me all to hell and that's what this whole thread is about. And while I'm at it, what is the point of having a locking point in the flywheel that DOESN'T line up with the timing? Seems a bit arse over boob

[Paul-R]

There are other vids in the series ...

I jumped into video to check how the captions looked. It was the same and, I'm afraid, I decided to pass on the video.

[RichardW]

Ignore the flywheel. If you put the pin in the timing wheel can you put the pin in the cam shaft?

The hole the flywheel has been offset since the DV6 was introduced - I presume it is off set so that the pistons are all off TDC and prevents any contact when loosening / tightening the bolt, and possibly easy position when first building the engine.

[wheeler]

If you go back to DW & XU engines there was the ‘half moon’ plate you removed to get into the ring gear to lock the teeth to loosen the flywheel this could be locked just about anywhere on the flywheel. The flywheel pin just replaces that as there is no access to ring gear. The replacement instructions on servicebox & haynes pro tell you to remove the pin then turn to set the timing.

[Doo]

Ignore the flywheel. If you put the pin in the timing wheel can you put the pin in the cam shaft?

The hole the flywheel has been offset since the DV6 was introduced - I presume it is off set so that the pistons are all off TDC and prevents any contact when loosening / tightening the bolt, and possibly easy position when first building the engine.

I went all the way back to the first stage I did (as you would imagine) but she still flags up the same 2 codes so I will have to come back to it when I return....

Unfortunately, my old mum is done. She got blood cancer ( strangely enough after getting the "jab") and is now suffering from fluid on the lungs, myocarditis, kidney disease and whatever else Bill Gates stuffed into that poison shot Our family have NEVER had cancer. Am I a tinfoil hat wearer? You will never know.... Suffice to say, I have to go watch my mum suffer. I am not exactly set up for such things.

So this pile of Merkin sh!te is the tin hat on my week of insanity.

Thank you for all the amazing advice. I know I did the right thing with the various timing bit & bobs, but why oh why do F RD feel the need to make things SO utterly SH!TE????

[Doo]

Hi all, problem solved. It was staring me in the face, but too many distractions & family stuff.

I went back to it the other day and saw my mistake.

I HAD done the chains correctly, but in the wrong cassette half! I have absolutely no idea how or why, but I am not too proud to admit it was my mistake.

I removed the chain, cams & tensioner and replaced them all in the "top" half of the cassette, flipped it upside down and went from there. I can only assume I did it wrong because I had wanted to put the chain tensioner bolts in before putting the two halves together

I hope I can help somone else out of a spot by sharing.

Cam cassette is in two halves.

Top & bottom.

The bottom has a flat face to mount to the head.

Leave it aside & insert the cams on the top part after oiling, set the arrows to line up with the golden links with the top half upside down & golden links upwards.

Apply thin line of silicone all around the mating faces.

Oil cams & set the bottom half of the cassette upside down onto the top half & insert bolts, turn four corner bolts to pull faces together, then tighten all bolts to 15Nm (my Torque Wrench doesn't go that low so I pulled them tight then a 1/8 of a turn using a short 3/8 ratchet).

Knowing the crankshaft is set with the pin through the hole set at 0 degree's, the pistons will all be in line about halfway up & down, if you want to check, use welding rods of equal length, they should all match in height.

Apply silicone to the mating face of the cam cassette where it will meet the cylinder head, then flip it over & apply straight (there are 2x 12mm holes to allow insertion of dowels but I used 12mm drill bits) onto the head, being careful not to disturb the rocking rollers as they will fall over just for the fun of it.

Insert all bolts and personally, I tightened the middle row from outside to in to pull the cassette onto the head, repeated with outer bolts in a criss cross pattern. I then tightened all & pulled them tight & then a pinch until I couldn't turn them further with a 3/8's ratchet. You get a feel for things over the years, but absolutely use a torque wrench to set them correctly... My next purchase is a 0 to 40Nm and a new larger one to compliment my excellent middle range T Wrench. Incidentally, I did most of the top end work on this engine using my tiny Magnussen 1/4 drive set for the various 7mm, 8mm and 10mm bolts.

Once you have installed the cam cassette, ensure the fuel pump pin is still locked in place, then turn the cam pulley round to face the pin insert & lock it in place. Remember the crank is locked & the pistons are halfway up so you wont hit the valves off the pistons. Install your new belt & coolant pump & set the timing tensioner to just before the gap, lock it. Remove all locking pins & turn the engine 6 full turns by hand to make sure everything is as it should be and stop at the 0 degree's on the crank (when you can put the crank locking pin in place) then check the cam & fuel pump also line up with their respective locking pin holes.

Lock all pulleys again & readjust belt tensioner to where the arrow is in the gap on the backing plate. Pull the 13mm locking nut up tight, remove locking pins and turn the engine a further 2 full crank rotations.

If you're happy, build the engine back up and make sure all plugs are in & locked. Check fuel lines are clicked all the way home & all injector nuts on the injectors & fuel rail are tight. That includes the feed, half way along & underneath the fuel rail.

Check all worm drive clips are tight & all inlet hoses & pipes are done up tight.

Once you are confident everything has been checked & rechecked, it's time to start the engine.

It may take a few turns to get the fuel to the injectors, but it should start & idle. Leave it for at least five minutes, having made sure there is nothing leaking. Remember to check that coolant pipe at the gearbox end of the cylinder head. It's very small and easily missed (no I didn't ).

Switch off & check levels & top up as necessary.

I drove the van to a friends house at 50mph. On the return I took it to 70mph with no issues. I am changing the oil & filter tomorrow along with the front pads. Then a years mot.

Phew.... talk about seeing the wood for the tree's Lesson learned.