C5x7 faults for "everything "

[aerodynamica]

If I can get it to show graphical data, what would I been looking for? Maybe a single different result from that sensor.

But would it work above 10kph as that seems to be some kind of safety limit for diagnostic being used with braking system

[wurlycorner]

If I can get it to show graphical data, what would I been looking for? Maybe a single different result from that sensor.

A difference in data, yes - perhaps just occasional drop outs.
It is possible to graph in Lexia, by going into a different menu (I've forgotten how).

[aerodynamica]

If I can get it to show graphical data, what would I been looking for? Maybe a single different result from that sensor.

A difference in data, yes - perhaps just occasional drop outs.
It is possible to graph in Lexia, by going into a different menu (I've forgotten how).

I'm sure I've seen "view graph data" as an option.

I'll have a look.

My lexia is one of the old clone versions I run on an old laptop. Kindly given by KennyW of this parish.

[aerodynamica]

Ok I checked, it appears on this I can't view live graphic data. Seems that it has to be saved data from previous.

[wurlycorner]

Just on those channels?
Or can’t find any way to display live data on a graph? Because the latter is definitely possible on Lexia - I’ve done it more than once on my mk1 c5 while trying to fault find on engine and body control circuits (haven’t needed to on abs, I admit).

[RichardW]

Still got my kit down here in Lanark, and got a version of Diagbox 9.x if you want to try something later... but if you've changed the sensor and it's able to read it, and the fault is repeatable, then most likely it's the bearing - but sometimes a build up of rust under the sensor can give false readings. You should be able to see the track if you take the sensor out, and then rotate the wheel to see if there are any duff looking spots.

[aerodynamica]

Thanks Richard, If I can't determine the state of the magnetic ring , I suppose the next thing is to hook it up to a more comprehensive diagnostic tool.

[Kupsberg]

As stated previously, it most likely is the bearing.
One other thing I would suggest to check as well is for stuck/jamming brake calipers! One quite broad way of determing is to drive at constant usual speed and check the consumption if it defers from usual. (Edit, also good way is to measure the caliper/brake discs temps from non reflecting surface with ir-thermometer right after stopping from a +15min drive. My FL was at 68°C when others at ~20°C) Or get the car on hoist and try turning wheels when gearbox on Neutral.

I had my wheelspeed inconsistensy/coherence fault lately as with all the related "faults" as well but changing the front jammed brake calipers to new ones seemed to do the trick. Had a 0.5l-1/100km more consumption before the change.

Or at least it has not returned back to me, yet

-J

[aerodynamica]

As stated previously, it most likely is the bearing.
One other thing I would suggest to check as well is for stuck/jamming brake calipers! One quite broad way of determing is to drive at constant usual speed and check the consumption if it defers from usual. Or get the car on hoist and try turning wheels when gearbox on Neutral.

I had my wheelspeed inconsistensy/coherence fault lately as with all the related "faults" as well but changing the front jammed brake calipers to new ones seemed to do the trick. Had a 0.5l-1/100km more consumption before the change.

Or at least it has not returned back to me, yet

-J

Thanks, good suggestion. Both front calipers are free though. In fact both are new (last year).

It's funny that this problem started soon after I replaced the lower frip joint. I loosened the drive shaft nut. I'll admit that I didn't check the torque when retightening it. Just turned to 'very tight' with a 5foot bar. Although I don't think it would affect it, I now wonder if the wrong torque would have done something to the sensor ring.

I mean I doubt it is too tight. I imagine the torque for that nut would be something like 250Nm or the like. But if I undertightened it could it do anything? Kind of doubt it but I'm running out of ideas.

I have a wheel bearing on order all the same.

[aerodynamica]

Well it's fixed. And Richard W is the winner! The old magnetic track was in a poor state and looks like bits of it have indeed dropped off.

This is the back of the wheel bearing and the remains of the magnetic track are the crust around the edge

So my approach after fitting a new sensor and finding no change was to order a new wheel bearing. A search on eBay found a full LH hub carrier and at £35 I thought that was an idea because it means I can change the bearing and ball joints off the car and then swap over the lot. As it happens the part arrived today and it actually has a very good hub bearing. It also has a SKF frip joint. I took off the hub from the alloy upright, and also went to remove the dreaded upper ball joint which actually out up no struggle to remove! Unlike the other side over a year ago. So it has a new upper joint, frip joint is in good order and the lower pinch bolt bushing was also in good order so I swapped over the lot and cleared all the fault codes. Test drive and no sign of the array of faults now.

Plan was to refurbish the original hub carrier with the new wheel bearing etc but the replacement one was so much better anyway I'll just hang on to it.

The hub carrier is actually from a 2006 C6 and I was chancing it that it would be identical and it is. Was from ecoparts, an online breaker in Ireland but the get praise for their speed of delivery.]

Replacement item. Added a new upper ball joint too

[aerodynamica]

Thinking now that both sides of the car have new lower frip joint, upper ball joint, lower pinch bolt bushing, both inner control arm bushes, refurbished steering rack, new inner and outer track rod joints, droplinks are recent, calipers and sliders new, LH strut new in 2022

and I'm still getting that clunk/ rattle that feels like worn droplinks... but that's another thread..