Saxo wheel bearing

[Jonathancilia]

I had good luck with the J&R ones, they been on the car for about 70k kms but they have doubl3d in price from last time lol

[MattBLancs]

I had good luck with the J&R ones, they been on the car for about 70k kms but they have doubl3d in price from last time lol

Yes, I've had good service from some J&R driveshafts too - out a set on my 306, think we're less than £40 each at the time.

[MattBLancs]

Repeated bearing failure must be a touch contagious - 206 front left bearing swap this morning.

Witness marks on the drive flange show this is likely 4th bearing on this side, I can certainly remember changing it more than once in the past ten years or so.

Annoying. Am putting it down to a distorted hub, had I more time (MOT is booked tomorrow 09:30 am!) I'd get a replacement hub for £25 from Autodoc but foolishly I only put the wheels up in the air for a quick check over on Sunday morning, so no chance to have it over from Germany in that timescale.

Supposedly decent brand "FAG" being fitted (into the existing possibly scrap hub) but will see how it goes.

I might have used a cheapo bearing on first change but will definitely have picked a reputable brand second time round.

Euro car parts wanted £37, Halfords trade card £25! Both same FAG brand.

Found the blinking horrible circlip off but am eyeing up some big circlip pliers for this job in future.

Drive flange off with correct sized socket, big hammer and mild violence. Off to friendly garage and press out the bearing - considering not been in place for decades was VERY reluctant to remove, 20 tonnes indicated on the presses's gauge before BANG! Moving at last.

[MattBLancs]

Bottom ball joint removal aid in action (bits of timber and some scrap coaxial aerial cable)

[myglaren]

Euro car parts wanted £37, Halfords trade card £25! Both same FAG brand.

The irony there being that ECP supply Halfords with parts.

[Jonathancilia]

Yeah can be slightly distorted hub, if it fails again i will replace the hub aswell. As for the engine juddering i narrowed it down to a faulty diesel pump throttle damper. It is sticking and retracting erraticaly exactly as the juddering i experience when driving uphill or under load especially. Any idea where i can find one for the bosch diesel pump? I dont know how to send a picture on this forum... this is like a solenoid that the throttle lever rests on.

[MattBLancs]

Photos:

Full editor and preview, then click

Also, que the swearing, yes that is the new circlip that was hiding in the bottom of the box!

[Jonathancilia]

Like this one

[MattBLancs]

That is a funny little thing, don't recall seeing one of those before. My dad's 206 DW8 had a throttle return damper but looked like a mini boot gas strut. Lucas pump on that.

Had a previous 306 XUD9TE with a Bosch pump, don't remember something looking like that.


I'd post on the "part numbers request" thread as the part number would give you something to search for,

Matt

[Jonathancilia]

Found the part number on google. 1563.F9 but i read that its not necessary to run with. Car runs fine without it, throttle returns instantly back thats the only difference without it

[MattBLancs]

The irony there being that ECP supply Halfords with parts.

Wasn't sure but thought as much - Halfords descriptions as equally confusing as euro / carparts4less identical sites (e.g lists "inner diameter" and "inner diameter1" with two different figures!)


It seems to go round in waves as to which (euro/ carparts4less/ Halfords trade is cheapest. Autodoc normal beats them if you can tolerate the wait (and the potential for painful returns hassle from what I've read))

Interesting that Halfords delivery to store also beat Euro doing the same to their own branches! (Couple of days quicker) all very odd

[MattBLancs]

Found the part number on google. 1563.F9 but i read that its not necessary to run with. Car runs fine without it, throttle returns instantly back thats the only difference without it

Can't confirm the number - Marc would be able to I'd you're a Donor.

Couldn't work out what benefit the one on my Dad's gave either, strange thing. But removing it has cured the juddering problem you described?

[Jonathancilia]

I still have to see. I will report back tomorrow with the results because it seemed to do it more when cold. Maybe the damper was sticking more when cold i guess

[CitroJim]

A distorted hub is a good call on the cause Matt... Be good to know if it fixes it as it may give Jonathan a clue as to why he suffers so many failures...

FAG, if not counterfeit, are a good, well known and respected brand...

Found the blinking horrible circlip off but am eyeing up some big circlip pliers for this job in future.

I have a big pair that are great for installing new circlips but it's not up to initially freeing off ones held fast with a bit of corrosion...

I use a punch to get it moving and once free, a slim cold chisel specially ground for the job to lift an end and flip it out of the groove...

They usually end up flying across the workshop! Wear eye protection

Euro car parts wanted £37, Halfords trade card £25! Both same FAG brand.

The irony there being that ECP supply Halfords with parts.

A bit of profiteering going on somewhere...

20221201_141913.jpg

Like this one

It's an anti-stall device... It slows down the return of the throttle arm when you lift your foot off the accelerator pedal. The 'gas strut' device also fitted to some pumps was to do the opposite and prevent a snap opening of the throttle by slowing its movement to fully open... It was to cut emissions and reduce black smoke...

Th latter is not needed and as long as you know the function of the former it's not essential...

[MattBLancs]

Lots of great info there Jim!

A distorted hub is a good call on the cause Matt... Be good to know if it fixes it as it may give Jonathan a clue as to why he suffers so many failures...

FAG, if not counterfeit, are a good, well known and respected brand...

Just to be clear (as plenty rambling from me!) I've had to put the new bearing into the current hub due to MOT tomorrow. If this bearing again has a short life then it and hub will be in the scrap pile and I'll start fresh with a new Autodoc hub next time.


Tips for bearing replacement:
Never hit the new bearing.

Feel free to wallop the old one to remove (but be aware the hardened steel is very hard and brittle - flying shards possible if fractures when hit. Eye protection sensible! Same goes really for when in the press, just because the press doesn't move quickly doesn't mean flying shards aren't a potential hazard) A moment feeling a right Wally with the safety clobber on beats several hours in A&E and worse the potential lost of sight!

Only press against bearing outer race when pushing into the hub.

Similarly, only press against inner race when pushing the drive flange into the inside of the new bearing

Copper grease on both surfaces before installation may help next time removal.

Make sure bearing is fed in parallel, if pressure begins to rise before the bearing is fully inserted then stop! Something is up and better to investigate than "press on" regardless!

And finally if you've changed a bearing more than once in the past - and followed the above - then the hub is likely knackered!