moizeau wrote: 16 Mar 2021, 18:01
All springs are there Jim. the adjuster is a toothed wheel on a threaded rod that expands the two shoes underneath the wheel cylinder. I'm thinking the auto adjuster is still the main culprit in my eyes also, possibly not helped by the state of the backplate.
Time will tell.........
Yes, I recall those in Pug 205s and 206s amongst others Pete... They're a nightmare and now I know they're that type my money is now firmly on the auto-adjuster...
A bad backplate certainly won't be helping matters though...
moizeau wrote: 16 Mar 2021, 17:15
and has only ever happened when the hand brake has been applied overnight, never when left overnight without the handbrake. When the hand brake is applied the wheel is locked solid.
that brought some old memories Drum brakes + Auto adjusters + Overnight handbrake application in cold weather is a no-go combination
Only himself the stupid makes wrong, many are being confused by the clever
moizeau wrote: 16 Mar 2021, 17:15
and has only ever happened when the hand brake has been applied overnight, never when left overnight without the handbrake. When the hand brake is applied the wheel is locked solid.
that brought some old memories Drum brakes + Auto adjusters + Overnight handbrake application in cold weather is a no-go combination
Good point! I never leave the handbrake on when any of my cars are parked up at home for any length of time... Always left in 1st gear and handbrake off... A good policy...
Did you check the brake cylinder to see if both pistons are free? What normally happens is one gets a bit grotty, starts to leak inside the rubber boot and eventually it sticks and wont return. They are hydraulic and only work from the pedal. The parking brake mechanism is mechanical. However another possibility is the brake cable is swelled inside the cover and wont fully release, which gives you the same symptoms as the auto adjuster is trying to take up the slack.
If it is a cable, buy them in a pair because if one sides gone, the other won't be far behind. and if it is a wheel cylinder, get a length of wood that will fit between the driver seat and the pedal. Remove the affected drum, place the wood on the brake pedal and slide the seat forward about 2 inches or so to hold the pedal down just enough to shut off the flow of fluid from the resevoir. That way you don't need to mess around with hose clamps (which only serve to damage the braiding inside the flexi anyway). Once you've replaced the cylinder, open the bleed nipple one turn and remove your wood. Bleed the brakes as normal (starting from the rear corner furthest from the brake master cylinder, then the opposite rear, then the front one furthest from the master, then the closest). Because you lost very little fluid by preventing it from running out of the resevoir, you will only need a dribble to top up. But if the pads are well down on the front brakes, don't fill it to the high mark or when you do replace the front pads, you'll have fluid peeing out of the cap!
Thanks for the suggestions Doo, the wheel cylinder is free both sides and can be pushed in with a finger. The cable is fine, I backed off the auto tensioner completely when I gave everything a clean which meant it had no handbrake on the RHS. With the drum off I watched it move full travel in both directions, no issues.
Nice tip with the wood to reduce leakage, that's been put in the memory banks, thanks
Pete
Notice the BX is still top the list but sadly gone
moizeau wrote: 18 Mar 2021, 16:51
Thanks for the suggestions Doo, the wheel cylinder is free both sides and can be pushed in with a finger. The cable is fine, I backed off the auto tensioner completely when I gave everything a clean which meant it had no handbrake on the RHS. With the drum off I watched it move full travel in both directions, no issues.
Nice tip with the wood to reduce leakage, that's been put in the memory banks, thanks
Only other thing I can think of is at some point the affected brake has had the flexi clamped and it cant let the fluid back fast enough. That has been found on several vehicles I've worked on....
Doo wrote: 19 Mar 2021, 09:47
Only other thing I can think of is at some point the affected brake has had the flexi clamped and it cant let the fluid back fast enough. That has been found on several vehicles I've worked on....
I see where you're coming from and don't want to sound dismissive but when I closed the wheel cylinder prior to putting the shoes back on I retracted both pistons with my thumb and forefinger. Also, if this was the case I would expect some binding?
One thing I may not have mentioned is that when the wheel frees up there is a metallic twang as if the 'cocked' shoe was returning to it's natural position under spring tension.
Not done it since......
I'm supposed to trying to get in and out of the UK in May within 48 hours to drop my son of for a work placement and pick my daughter up from Uni, sod's law says it will behave until I park on the ferry or train.
It's one of those, intermittent troubles are the worst.
Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions.
Pete
Notice the BX is still top the list but sadly gone
If you are releasing the parking brake and there is a time delay or it twangs, something is afoot with the release mechanism... Suggests something is worn or damaged. But why? What changed?
