Xantia HDi hydraulic clutch

[Skull]

I'll probably have to try that as well ....until I get a car that runs

[CitroJim]

I'll probably have to try that as well ....until I get a car that runs

Good for keeping you fit and healthy

It's not economical though... What you don't spend on petrol or diesel you spend on food... A hard working body needs its fuel too

[jgra1]

I would change it for you skull ..not sure where you are (using phone) but have done plenty of clutches before

john

[Skull]

Cheers igra1, bit far though and not sure yet what is happening ....

[jgra1]

ahh yes just seen where you are.. annoyingly I was supposed to go past you about now, but things have conspired not too allow it at the moment.. could have done it as part of a weekend on route to ?Burnop? Field or Thirsk visiting the old man.

[Skull]

CitroJim I've made a start and got near-side driveshaft out OK.

Both driveshafts came out of the hubs without any of the bother you had ... however the off-side doesn't seem so keen. I had a re-read of your helpful thread and see that you left the off-side driveshaft in the hub and still managed to get the inner shaft detached. The intermediate bearing retaining bolts have been slackened and lugs turned 90 degrees so the driveshaft should pull out from the gearbox. There also doesn't appear to be a dust seal on the gearbox end of the shaft as mentioned in the BOL ...

Skull

[Cheers Myglaren]

Could I re-attach the hub and nut and try to free the inner shaft by using it like a 'slide hammer' or will that knacker the CV joints and possible separate the outer joint

[CitroJim]

Could I re-attach the hub and nut and try to free the inner shaft by using it like a 'slide hammer' or will that knacker the CV joints and possible separate the outer joint

No, that will pull the inner tri-ax joint apart so don't do that... The best and only way to drive out the centre bearing from its housing is to wallop it from the gearbox side with a blunt-ended cold chisel (like a bolster you'd use on brick and stone) and a mighty club hammer.

You'll find a nice step/lip on the shaft you can drive against but do keep rotating the shaft as you go to even out the effect...

I've never yet failed using this method but you do need to be quite persuasive about it

[KennyW]

Skull,

The bolts on the intermediate bearing some times turn and stop you removing driveshaft. I didn't have any problems removing shafts but as Jim suggests a little of Percy whatsit will help.

Kenny

[Skull]

Cheers Jim/Kenny I tried that earlier but only hit it once as it felt 'wrong' I will get angrier tomorrow .... cheers hope you had a good weekend ....

[CitroJim]

I will get angrier tomorrow .... cheers hope you had a good weekend ....

Yes, you do need to get very angry Think of something you need to take your anger/frustration out on and pretend it's that!

I got so angry with one once, on a scrapper, that I smashed the bearing all to pieces in freeing it... That was an extreme case though...

Yes, an excellent weekend... It'll soon be in my blog. I trust you did too!

[Skull]

CitroJim

Driveshafts out side of chisel worked .... I was worried about being too brutal as I thought that I was hitting the actual bearing rather than that 'shoulder'.

Most of the numerous other cables/pipes/air intake/LMH reservoir/regulator/abs bracket and other stuff including a headlight just the gearbox connectors/mount and gear selector cables to sort before taking a deep breath and splitting the engine / gearbox ... I will shout if I get stuck / squashed .....

The Mrs is getting impatient ....

[CitroJim]

Excellent Skull Progress will now be very rapid...

Keep up the good work

[Skull]

Progress ....but no what you'd call rapid CitroJim

Skull

Note regulator and pipework still attached but suspended and hidden in cardboard.

Split engine / gearbox replaced clutch kit and re-joined bell-housing.

Somehow during the process that went into the dark hours yesterday I've also managed to split a pipe

Haven't discovered which one yet but I think it will be in the differential area which I struggled with clearance issues on removal and especially replacement...

I couldn't find the corner that some of you mention to 'tuck' the gearbox into

I've managed to carry out this clutch change without disconnecting any hydraulic pipework (barring the leaking one!)
[Edit - The rubber pipework to the LHM reservoir was disconnected and plugged]

It occurred to me this morning (5.00 AM for some bizarre reason) that if you were to place the suspension in high mode BEFORE dismantling and then support thoroughly on the chassis main body it would probably give greater clearance for the gearbox to be manoeuvred like this but with a bigger opening ....

Skull

Note broken brake pad wear cable (top) gear selector horseshoe would have cleared easier if stripped in high setting.

Still plenty to re-fit and still need to engage my home-made tool for engaging the clutch release bearing but there's no rush until I source a replacement pipe .....

[jgra1]

good work skull hope the rest goes ok and you can identify the pipe and change easily..

cold out there !

[Skull]

Cold enough jgra1 - just hoping it stays dry Would be quite an enjoyable job in a large heated garage