Xantia HDI Driveshaft / Reluctor Ring Replacement

[CitroJim]

James, I love your method of calculating how to apply the right torque

Never done that, I've just done them up 'FT' with the breaker bar and never had an issue...

...Except when undoing some I'd done up earlier on one occasion - the reason for two broken Halfrauds breaker bars and a broken cat litter tray

[Hell Razor5543]

Well, as most torque wrenches only go up to 150lb/ft (OK, you can get stronger wrenches, but the prices can get eye watering!) there had to be a way to manage it without a major expense (I believe it to be fairly accurate, provided you get your weight and maths right). Mind you, if you have to change a lorry wheel you might want one of these;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LABOUR-SAVING ... 43e1eceb6a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Xantidote]

Might it be acceptable to mark the nut / hub before removal and tighten the nut back up until the marks align?

Yep, I've done it that way before - not a small bit of chalk or a nail scratch, but using a centre punch to make the necessary reference marks, so they don't get lost during the dissassembly/assembly.

[falling-out-with-my-car]

if your going to use Aeroldite make sure its a waterproof one.

Aeroldite have changed their supplies
recently and the standard product in the red and white tubes is not waterproof.

I use Wilkinsons clear epoxy as it is cheaper and 100% waterproof they should be in yellow and purple tubes of about 15 grams each.

we build R/c model sailing yachts and Submarines and know our glues and epoxies waterproof ability very well.

[XantiaExclusiveHDI]

Just a quick followup... I know you all like a story

A window of decent weather forecasted had me purchasing the rings from J&R and a 35mm Laser branded impact socket which I'm glad to report fits the wheel hubs nicely.

I popped the spare (steel) wheel on in order to gain access to the hub nut and ground the car for stability. Using the method in the video posted above (jack supporting the extension) with my 2ft Halfrauds breaker & a 5ft scaffold pole inserted right down to the knuckle I hesitantly applied increasing pressure - with no bar bouncing! The sweating induced is more mentally derived and has to do with thoughts of a possible breaker failure... I applied roughly a third of my weight to the end of the bar which transpired into an alarming amount of movement / bending

Then ***CRACK*** and a bloody loud one at that. Ones initial thoughts are a broken knuckle. But to my delight the hub nut was free. Same experience the other side. All hail the 2ft Halfrauds breaker bar! Car jacked up & on stands. There's no need to remove the drop link nuts - just the lower balljoint nyloc nut (replaced with new ones on reassembly) and separating the balljoint. Removed the splined shaft from the hub I then strung the shafts up and inward for access and to stop them popping out from the gearbox.

The existing reluctor rings were both easy to remove having already split. I spent some time with wire & flap wheels of varying grades to remove as much of the rust as possible - feeling for a regular smooth surface as you go. A telltale ring of better metal can be seen where the reluctors originally sat. I did find heating the rings was of questionable use - as soon as they mate with the CV the heat dissipates very quickly indeed through conduction. Probably helped a little though to be fair - and one needs to work quickly. I managed to drift them on successfully to a very tight fit. I also found that you couldn't drift them on too far - they neatly found a stop point where the originals had rested. Check all around to ensure they are equidistant from the edge of the CV. I can report also the 48 teeth rings with a 90mm internal diameter are the correct type for the HDi110. Once reassembled I visually checked for alignment with the ABS sensors - all fine there.

Everything re-assembeled & hub nuts torqued using the 'manual' method above - and just a little more in order to get the R clips aligned & inserted. Back for the retest & hey-presto!

[CitroJim]

Excellent and great news Well dond and great work

Those big cracks as tight things become free can be alarming.. I recall once someone watching me pressing a wheel bearing out of a hub with a hydraulic press. They always go off with a very satisfying bang as the bearing finally releases...

I looked around for the person observing to find him cowering in a corner absolutely terrified

[falling-out-with-my-car]

we have always used a Britax 2ft breaker bar and a 3 ft piece of trampoline frame which about 1.5 inches diameter.
had to do this recently for a 23 mm rear hub nut on my 2cv
there are one or two household items you can borrow tools from like the square connecting bar inside an internal door handle to undo the square socket type sump nuts. but don't let the other half see you dismantling the house for tools. good job on the Hdi 110 sounds like you enjoyed it all in the end. its very satisfying when you've done it yourself.

[old-un77]

in my time in the fork lift game, I found that if sufficient pressure is on the "undoing" bar, but will not undo, a tap with a hammer on the nut area will often release the nut...

[RichardW]

Re heating - when I did one on mine, I heated it on the gas ring for a few minutes, then it was a loose fit on the hub, I just held it in place for a minute or so till it cooled and then held itself in place.

[XantiaExclusiveHDI]

a tap with a hammer on the nut area

!! I don't intend to be tapping said nuts with a hammer anytime soon

Sorry - couldn't resist that...

Yes it all went quite well in the end - I have to say though having the right mindset and a warm sunny day helps no end!

[falling-out-with-my-car]

If doing both sides the garages tend to swap the front hub nuts around.