De-FAP a C5 2.2HDi Exclusive info please.

[Monkeyfeet]

Well done for finding ecusafe, more than I've been able to do on my old drives etc.....
As far as I remember, yes you do just tick FAP remove (do the egr box while you're there too). Is is save or change (process the file) next? I do remember it being straight forward, no hidden catch-outs though. I don't think I bothered with the ad-blue but I'm certain it can't do any harm either way.
Looks to me like you're pretty well sorted, it really is pretty straightforward: You do just write back to the car using Galetto after processing.
I did run up the Lexia, but only just to be double sure. I ran it for several week with no alarms pre lexia bsi changes. In fact I'm almost nearly 80% sure you don't actually need to touch the bsi.....

nb whatever you do make sure you have a good battery / link up to another batter or car/ or a charger. Might be an urban myth but it's really not worth taking any chances with letting the voltage drop or spike.

[h2ocooler]

Thanks Monkeyfeet.

Going to have the car connected to the Jeep (HUGE brand new battery) and the Jeep engine running, also going to have the laptop plugged into a UPS then the mains to the UPS.

Will make a few copies of the MAP and save them in different places just to be sure before I edit one and upload it back to the car, that way if it goes tits up I can put the old MAP back I hope.

To be sure that the FAP has been removed from the ECU can I just remove the 2 sensor pipes and see if it throws a fit or not before smashing the guts out?

I didn't know if the AdBlue bit was to do with the addative system or is that automatically removed with the FAP?

[Hell Razor5543]

Make sure not to start the C5 while connected to the Jeep. If you do so on a Xantia, it can cause problems (mainly with the speedo and the rev counter).

[h2ocooler]

No the jeep will be the only one I might start/have running but then its has a huge battery on it so don't really thing I will need to, shouldn't take that long to write to the ECU that it would flatten 2 batteries.
Swirl vacuum unit is here and the Galletto Cable has arrived so have everything in place I hope for the De-FAP and repairs, I will be arriving there on monday morning (stupid O'clock) so might be able to do it on monday if I'm not too tired, if not tuesday for deffo.
Be prepared everyone "just incase it all goes pear shaped"
Worst case scenario if I somehow manage to turn the ECU into a door stop what is involved in replacing it, can I get one from a breakers and re code it to the car or does it have to be a new one?
Thanks for all the help but might be asking again very soon lol

[h2ocooler]

Hi All
Hope I'm not tempting fate but..........Well the car is done.
Arrived over here last monday and read the codes, turbo overboost as before and 398 mb pressure difference across the FAP, stripped out the swirl vacuum unit and it was fine BUT replaced it anyway, rubber pipes both ends were perished and split so replaced both of them.
Connected the Galletto cable and read the ECU, edited it with ECU Safe and wrote it back then started the car, Anti Pollution fault came up AGAIN, read the faults with Lexia and it was all communication faults, cleared them all then started it up again, all quiet, no bleeps, drove it and it was fine. I decided to leave the FAP in place for a while to make sure then removed it yesterday, the inside was sooty BUT not that bad, drilled and broke the guts out and re fitted (the inside of the ceramic did look quite clean and white) then re started, no warnings.

It did a run of about 30 miles today and all is well, no warnings, plenty of power (more than before) and very little smoke.

I did go into the BSI and remove the FAP in there but still get addative low faults and readings for the FAP but pressure difference is 0 mb is that normal or is there something I have done wrong?