The tiny pipe from the inlet manifold area to the pump controls the fuelling under boost. It will run fine without it but will be very slow , I know as mine fell off once
The microswitch / button switch on the acc lever on the pump, that's usually the timing advance when cold, as above only works when wax stat pulls fast idle cable fully and acc is shut, not needed either, the timing advance that is (see my post above a bit)
I'd suspect the piping from the filter outlet to the pump or the filter assembly itself is letting air in if it persists.
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
spider wrote:You may find you need a new intercooler seal, the 'D' seal as it usually distorts on removal, but you'll see if that's the case. I tended to replace them quite often.
Good point, Spider.
I reckon I am going to have to get a few parts on order from Citroen.
One of the things that easily gets destroyed on these engines is the breather pipe from rocker cover down to wherever it goes. I broke mine on the Xant the other week and had to remove Sylv's today to get one of the leak-off pipes off. I was ever so gentle but it was pretty mashed anyway despite that.
I'm beginning to think it would be a sound investment to get one of each of all the rubber oil pipes before they go NFP, if not already. I reckon it would cost a pretty penny though for all genuine pipes.
I did change all my breather pipes when I first got it, although they were not that expensive, to be fair I was a PSA employee at the time. A bit fiddly to fit some of them around the oil filler but otherwise OK.
I'd be tempted to look and see what state they are in first, some are not 'soft' really anyway so do not be overly concerned if they appear to have hardened, they may have been like that all the time. The breather valve is worth changing (on the side of the intercooler, the black round lump, its just stuck into the intercooler) if you want though. I did mine as a matter of course.
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
Mine was in a different place (as its a 205) its connected between the inlet piping and the breather from the cylinder head or oil filler (depending on model) if I remember correctly (I no longer have the car to check)
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
Spider wrote:The tiny pipe from the inlet manifold area to the pump controls the fuelling under boost. It will run fine without it but will be very slow , I know as mine fell off once
I've been there on my Xant. BUT... what if it is full of oil from the very oily intercooler?
spider wrote:I'd suspect the piping from the filter outlet to the pump or the filter assembly itself is letting air in if it persists.
Yes. Pipe from Intercooler on top of engine down to pump. Sylv's looks decidely oil around the clamp and I reckon it's full.
Well! On the air leak front...
The leak-off pipes did NOT cure it! At least, they are eliminated.
What happens with the fuel filter assembly?
Engine's only done 99300 miles so I doubt it's any pipes!
Next thing I am going to try is duct-taping some bubble-wrap or plastic over the side of the fuel filter housing with the little white screw in it. That will eliminate that.
I do not see any reason why the fuel filter housing is worth disturbing to replace the O-ring that seems not to be commonly available reading through some other posts.
I have a sneaking suspicion that the air leak.
Someone humour me! If the primer bulb is soft and hardens with pumping:-
a) Is the air leak before the primer bulb and air bubbles work their way up to the bulb?
b) If there is an air being drawn in but no diesel leakage then where is the diesel that is being replaced by air going?
I have a dim recollection that air leaks affect starting of Bosch pumps, but not Lucas... you have checked the glow plugs, and the valve clearances....????
Far as I know it's the exhausts closing up when it is cold, holding them open robbing it of compression and making a pig to start cold... When hot the head must expand more than the valve stem and they open up again.
spider wrote:See my reply just above your's regarding air ingress points on the filter.
Regarding the priming bulb, if its going hard after operating it a few times, its usually a sign that the 'leak' is afterwards in most cases.
Try this:
Engine cold (left overnight)
Operate primer half a dozen times until you feel it build up resistance.
Now switch ignition on, wait for glowplugs etc and try to start it. It should start immediately with a bit of luck.
Hi Spider.
The car is starting fine when primed. I am trying to locate leak or other problem which is causing it to require pumping. I am thinking of using some plasticine on the fuel filter to press over the white valve thing on the side to see if that cures it. If it does, then it must be leaking air in there.
, I know as mine fell off once 
