206 Clutch Swap & Gearbox/Differential Rattle??

Gammy leg · Unread post by **Gammy leg** » 29 Apr 2010, 19:45

Malcolm,

It may have been in the days when National used to supply reconditioned clutches. They now only make new ones and they have got their ISO 9001 certs etc so appear to have gone legit

ps. My old BX was a taxi before I bought it. Maybe it was the same one

Wasn't a silver 1.4TGE by any chance??

pps. All the Valeo's were around the £80 mark, can't remember what GSF wanted though. There were some ultra cheap ones on eBay but thought I'd give them a miss - you never know what you might be letting yourself in for.

Gammy

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 30 Apr 2010, 08:20

ok Gammy hope you dont have the same prob's

and no the TAXI i did was a DIESEL cant remember the colour i think it was dark grey,

also on the splitting gear box side be very carefull when pulling the box away from the engine, as they have a tendancy of being stuck together at/by the dowles at the bottom edge,
i have seen one were it snapped a lump of clutch houseing clean off

regards malcolm

Gammy leg · Unread post by **Gammy leg** » 04 May 2010, 19:05

OK,

Got n/s driveshaft out - the short one, but I can't shift the o/s shaft, it's stuck fast either in the intermediate bearing housing or at the end where it slots into the gearbox. Any ideas, it's getting late & sod's law I've got some work for the rest of the week so I need to get this sorted tonight. Aaaagh!!

Edit. I can see what I believe to be the inboard end of the o/s driveshaft through the opening in the diff from where the n/s shaft was removed. There appears to be a rod of some description partially blocking access but would it be feasible to insert a long blade screwdriver or similar into the opening to try and to knock out the driveshaft?

Desparate measures I know, but time is not on my side .

Gammy

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 04 May 2010, 20:06

The 'rod' is the diff

, I would advise against inserting something and hitting it.

Have you undone the two (11mm nuts from memory) retaining bolts holding the bearing into the housing ? , you may wish to turn the 'heads' so they are not obstructing the bearing, or take the bolts out completely.

Gammy leg · Unread post by **Gammy leg** » 04 May 2010, 21:31

Thanks Spider,

Afraid that your reply was a tad too late, n/s shaft now extracted using method as decribed, ie drifting out with long driver & lump hammer ( I was VERY careful so hopefully no damage done). Intermediate support was loosened as per your post. Just seemed to be reluctant to leave it's comfy splines I think.

Still at it now, starter motor just removed. I wonder what Mr Haynes has in store for me next.

I must say that this is one of most un-user freindly cars I've ever had. Everything is a complete &*%$$£* to get at and remove.

Gammy

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 04 May 2010, 23:29

no no Gammy they are easy to work on, it just getting late, did you undo the clutch houseing bolts before trying to remove the drive shafts, as i have seen the being stuck solid with this method,

i usualy remove both the nuts on the hocky stick bolts, then the bolt come out with the shaft,

regards to the night shift
malcolm

Gammy leg · Unread post by **Gammy leg** » 05 May 2010, 18:14

We will agree to differ on that one.

Is it really necessary to remove the rear engine mounting to remove the gearbox as per Haynes manual??

Gammy

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 06 May 2010, 20:15

no just just both drive shafts,

regards malcolm

Gammy leg · Unread post by **Gammy leg** » 06 May 2010, 22:18

Right job done. Sorry Malcolm but it was a 'mare.

Not easy to work on at all. The lower arm balljoints on both sides were an absolute pig to remove and refit thanks to the springloading effect of the bushes. Must have wasted 3- 4 hours in total on these alone aaagh!!:evil: . Then the gearbox had welded itself to to the engine on the front locating dowel. Took a lot of work to free that up

The re-build however went quite smoothly with the exception of those pesky balljoints until I got to the final act before closing the bonnet and taking out for a test drive - connecting the battery.
+ve on first, clipped-on, no problems. Attached the -ve and "PLIP" the central locking springs into life and locks all doors and boot. Now guess where the keys were?........... CORRECT in the ignition

And where was the spare?....... On the same key fob in the car

Phoned Peugeot dealer who offered to cut a new key for £30 on presentation of proof of ownership, but couldn't do it until tomorrow so I checked out YouTube for some handy hints and finally unlocked it with the aid of a wedge of wood and the bottom rail of an old metal venetian blind.

Anyhoo, the clutch swap was a success

, nice and smooth on take off and no more crunching into reverse. The downside is that it hasn't completly cured the rattle on over-run although it has quietened down a lot.

Gammy

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 07 May 2010, 08:03

no need to say sorry we take things as we find them, and i agree when they a stuck to gether like yours was they can be very trying

if you like you can pop by for me to have a listen,

kind regards malcolm

Gammy leg · Unread post by **Gammy leg** » 17 Jul 2010, 20:29

Just a quick note re: rattling sound in gearbox/diff on over-run. It doesn't happen when in 1st gear. Would this tiny fact give any clue as to where or what the problem is?

Gammy