Citroen Xantia Suspension Diagnosis

[MikeT]

The unique suspension makes such tasks a doddle, I love it. If, as you say, you raise to full height, place the axle stands on both sides and then lower the suspension you will find the front of the car is pivoted even higher, giving plenty of room to scramble around under there.

As advised by Old-Guy, it's an added safety measure.

[KevMayer]

BE AWARE...The hand brake is on the front wheels.

Before you raise the front up onto axle stands you must chock the back wheels or the whole car may try to roll away once the front is lifted.

[k2col]

Thanks again guys - I changed the front spheres (picked up some non-originals from GSF Car Parts for just over £40/pair) and it has completely transformed the ride. The front end immediately softened up compared to before, and the bounciness has gone.

The spheres were harder than I expected to undo, I had an oil filter removal tool that was a perfect fit, but ended up bending the tool before the spheres would shift. Fortunately a friendly local mechanic let me borrow a tool - the name of which I don't know but it was a belt that wrapped around the sphere, with a metal piece upon which one attached a wrench, turning the wrench tightened the belt and turned the sphere, and it came off fairly easily.

The ride height that I described where the front appeared higher than the rear seems to just be a feature of the car (I've noticed now that other Xantias are the same).

I checked the height adjusters as recommended, and they seemed fine, and I gave them a bit of a clean & lube while I was there.

The brakes do still pulse / pump a little under heavy braking, so I plan to bleed them at some point, though haven't gotten around to that yet.... do I have to remove the wheels to get to the calipers or can I get away with not removing them?

[Old-Guy]

It's possible to get at the front bleed nipples without taking the wheels off by turning the steering onto full lock. Some pundits claim that with some alloys it's also possible to get at the rear bled nipples (but you've got to lift the wheel of the ground to be able to get a 'hole' in the right place!)

As it's so easy with a Xantia to jack each corner in turn, it saves a lot of struggling to whip each wheel off in turn and let fluid flow until it changes to nice clean green.

I'll have a look for a previous post of mine which describes the job for the first time.

[CitroJim]

Some pundits claim that with some alloys it's also possible to get at the rear bled nipples (but you've got to lift the wheel of the ground to be able to get a 'hole' in the right place!).

You can get at the rear bleed nipples with Activa Alloys no problem. No need to jack up either, just roll the car a little until the bleed nipple is opposite the cutout.

In fact, you need the suspension on high and the full weight on the rears to get reasonable LHM flow out of the rear bleed nipples for effective bleeding.

Never tried getting at the front bleed nipples with the wheels in place. I must try that but I fear Activa alloys are too wide to allow it.

[Old-Guy]

In fact, you need the suspension on high and the full weight on the rears to get reasonable LHM flow out of the rear bleed nipples for effective bleeding.

I followed the advice in your sticky to do this and THEN remove the rear wheels one at a time. Worked fine for me - murky amber fluid eventually changing to proper clean green LHM. You were right about the volume - nearly filled my 330ml bleed bottle. This started life as a fruit juice bottle. I drilled two holes in the cap, one to be a tightish push fit around the bleed pipe and a little one to let air out. The pipe stays put and, unlike a jam jar, if the bottle falls over, the entire contents don't pour out - and it doesn't smash if dropped!

Never tried getting at the front bleed nipples with the wheels in place. I must try that but I fear Activa alloys are too wide to allow it.

I wouldn't bother! Halfway through I came to the conclusion, it would save time, temper and skin if I took off each wheel.

Guy