Driveshaft Roller bearings

KP · Unread post by KP » 17 Jul 2006, 15:42

just to update i have now found a good sued driveshaft for £25 that i shall pick up tomorrow and try and fit on wednesday.

Any pitfalls i may encounter that anyone who has done the job before could point out at all??

Im guessing as its already in bits i can just undo the hub nut retainer and hub nut from the wheel end of the driveshaft, push it out and then fitting of newer item is reverse of removal??

i guess this means ill have a sapre CVboot for the gearbox end of the driveshaft but ill not bother fitting it unless the used one lokoe bad but from what ive been told they are pretty good nick and just need a clean

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 17 Jul 2006, 16:28

let us know how you get on KP

£25 is good..
my breakers wanted £40 + vat for off the shelf..

with car off ground on stands.

Remove gearbox oil, undo and seperate lower ball joint. Apply brakes and undo hub nut.pull strut and hub off end of shaft, and pull shaft from box..

John

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 17 Jul 2006, 16:29

sorry.. undo hub nut THEN seperate lower outer joint

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 17 Jul 2006, 16:50

jgra1 wrote:sorry.. undo hub nut THEN seperate lower outer joint

It is in fact easier to loosen the strut clamp on the hub - and pull up the strut. The lower balljoint is too easy to damage

Most likelt it will be necessary to remove the droplink too.

BTW the hubnut will be a 35mm socket. And it is VERY tight

8304 · Unread post by **8304** » 17 Jul 2006, 16:55

your saying that all of the needle bearings have escaped, not one has been stuck in the grease?? surely not...

i know wot u mean i had the large rollers on the end of a zx triax joint slide off and release the needle bearings but they stuck to the grease which stopped the getting away.

however, it is a messy fidly job putting them back in so its probo best to source a new or second hand drive shaft....... especially as the chances ae you will miss one or two of the needle bearings.....

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 17 Jul 2006, 17:07

Anders

It is in fact easier to loosen the strut clamp on the hub - and pull up the strut. The lower balljoint is too easy to damage

I dont see how this will allow the hub to come out enough to get the shaft out.. I did mine on Saturday.. I used some grease on the splitter fork and it was ok on the rubber boot... Didnt need to do anything else.. both shafts out in 30 mins

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 17 Jul 2006, 17:46

jgra1 wrote:Anders

It is in fact easier to loosen the strut clamp on the hub - and pull up the strut. The lower balljoint is too easy to damage
I dont see how this will allow the hub to come out enough to get the shaft out.. I did mine on Saturday.. I used some grease on the splitter fork and it was ok on the rubber boot... Didnt need to do anything else.. both shafts out in 30 mins

Might be because you never tried it my way ...

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 17 Jul 2006, 18:26

why dont you just give GSF a call they sell re/con drive shafts and i think there around £56 squideish + the governments bit,they will know exactly which shaft you need,also im sure you cant buy the needle roller bearings individualy
regards malcolm

KP · Unread post by KP » 18 Jul 2006, 00:13

Tried local GSf, they could only get me a new one which was more like £65+daylight robbery tax

I ths far have the drop link off, the hub off the wishbone and the hub nut is the last bit and ill be able to slide it off

Ill probably tary and take the CV boot off just to keep as a spare from the hub end as its only about 2yrs old iirc and loks in good nick other than road grime and see if GSF do indeed want it to recon it at all for a few quid

No bearings at all in the grease. i have a good feel around with the latex gloves on and there was just grease grease and more grease

Thanks for your advice by the way guys and girls(if there are any here

) ill be tackling the job on wednesday and have put a few hours aside in the morn before high heat levels burn me off so i hope to complete by lunch really

Thanks again,
Will

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 18 Jul 2006, 00:25

KP wrote:I ths far have the drop link off, the hub off the wishbone and the hub nut is the last bit and ill be able to slide it off

I've found the ONLY way to undo the hub nut is through a steel wheel's opening with the weight of the car on the hub, ON THE GROUND [with FULL HYDRAULIC PRESSURE] - it's TOTALLY BLOODY TIGHT!!

Otherwise with everything else undone you'll be chasing the hub about the wheelarch and getting no purchase to undo the HIGHLY torqued nut. I recon you'll have to at least put the bottom balljoint back on...

Hub nut's the FIRST thing to undo with a job like this, not the last before pushing the driveshaft through the hub and out. IIRC there's 39 needle roller bearings on a 2.0 i Xm, although the mental scar is healing now and I may be suffereing from selective amnesia...

Andrew

DaveW · Unread post by **DaveW** » 18 Jul 2006, 01:31

andmcit wrote:
KP wrote:I ths far have the drop link off, the hub off the wishbone and the hub nut is the last bit and ill be able to slide it off
I've found the ONLY way to undo the hub nut is through a steel wheel's opening with the weight of the car on the hub, ON THE GROUND [with FULL HYDRAULIC PRESSURE] - it's TOTALLY BLOODY TIGHT!!

Otherwise with everything else undone you'll be chasing the hub about the wheelarch and getting no purchase to undo the HIGHLY torqued nut. I recon you'll have to at least put the bottom balljoint back on...

Hub nut's the FIRST thing to undo with a job like this, not the last before pushing the driveshaft through the hub and out. IIRC there's 39 needle roller bearings on a 2.0 i Xm, although the mental scar is healing now and I may be suffereing from selective amnesia...

Andrew

Absolutely.
The first job for me also is to loosen the hub nut with the car on it's wheels, in gear and the handbrake on. I don't see how you could get enough force onto it otherwise considering you usually need a hefty breaker bar and an extension tube.
I normally would use a short extension on the socket and support this on an axle stand to stop the lot levering off the nut. Similar set up to that used when undoing the crank bolt.

Dave.

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 18 Jul 2006, 12:32

Might be because you never tried it my way ...

I think I see now.. a pivoting hub, once the strut is removed...

Anders, cant you just be wrong sometimes

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 18 Jul 2006, 12:41

jgra1 wrote:Anders, cant you just be wrong sometimes

Thanks God I am - quite often 8)