This may be a long one!! I have a week to do this job and I want to do it right so help on any of the following would be great, as well as any suggestions to anything I may have missed. It's a Pull Type clutch.
1. Clutch Change
2. Re-aligning the release fork with the bearing. (Haynes says mark the gearbox / realease fork as you remove, I'm not putting the same gearbox on!!)[?]
3. Getting the lower engine mount / RH Driveshaft out, and changing the bush.
I plan to jack the car up, place it on axle stands. Support the engine with one jack and the gearbox with another when it's ready to drop. Will I have enough clearance?
How will I know if the release fork is aligned / engaged before I put it all back together. If I had a diagram of how it works!?[V]
I realise most of these subjects have echoes all over the Forum but I really need all the answers in one place!! Thankyou in advance.[:)]
Gearbox Change on ZX TD
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jeremy
- Posts: 3959
- Joined: 20 Oct 2002, 16:00
- x 2
Don't know about gearbox as i haven't done one and if I needed to i would probably get someone else to do it (coward i know)
I did replace the rear engine mount on by TD BX without dismantling anything else. I cut through the outer ring of the large mount with a hacksaw (full size job, blade threaded through hole and cutting at the bottom of the slot)and was able to punch the existing bush out without much trouble when I'd got right through the steel ring.
To ease replacement of the bush I put it in the freezer for the night before and it went in quite easily with a dab of grease. The yoke bush was dealt with in the normal way with a vice as a press and various spacers to push the bush out. Again I froze the new bush to aid fitting.
Freezing will cause the outer ring of the bush to contract a little and eases it when being pushed in.
jeremy
I did replace the rear engine mount on by TD BX without dismantling anything else. I cut through the outer ring of the large mount with a hacksaw (full size job, blade threaded through hole and cutting at the bottom of the slot)and was able to punch the existing bush out without much trouble when I'd got right through the steel ring.
To ease replacement of the bush I put it in the freezer for the night before and it went in quite easily with a dab of grease. The yoke bush was dealt with in the normal way with a vice as a press and various spacers to push the bush out. Again I froze the new bush to aid fitting.
Freezing will cause the outer ring of the bush to contract a little and eases it when being pushed in.
jeremy
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Jon
That'll be that ZX TD gearbox from Coventry from Ebay last week then?
If you are fitting a new clutch (highly recommended) then the Valeo and LUK ones come with an aligning tool. I've no idea what Haynes are on about.
Don't forget that you have to remove the lever arm from the gearbox before you remove from engine, or it won't come out!
If you are fitting a new clutch (highly recommended) then the Valeo and LUK ones come with an aligning tool. I've no idea what Haynes are on about.
Don't forget that you have to remove the lever arm from the gearbox before you remove from engine, or it won't come out!
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gjb02
- Posts: 287
- Joined: 20 Jul 2002, 20:37
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Jon</i>
That'll be that ZX TD gearbox from Coventry from Ebay last week then?
If you are fitting a new clutch (highly recommended) then the Valeo and LUK ones come with an aligning tool. I've no idea what Haynes are on about.
Don't forget that you have to remove the lever arm from the gearbox before you remove from engine, or it won't come out!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Yep, certainly is the one from Coventry.
I may have caused confusion, it's the lever arm / release arm that acts on the clutch release bearing, yeah?? It's the alignment of those that I'm concerned about. Haynes says, to mark before removal, then mark on removal to ensure correct engagement of re-fit. If I don't use the original box I haven't got the marks.
That'll be that ZX TD gearbox from Coventry from Ebay last week then?
If you are fitting a new clutch (highly recommended) then the Valeo and LUK ones come with an aligning tool. I've no idea what Haynes are on about.
Don't forget that you have to remove the lever arm from the gearbox before you remove from engine, or it won't come out!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Yep, certainly is the one from Coventry.
I may have caused confusion, it's the lever arm / release arm that acts on the clutch release bearing, yeah?? It's the alignment of those that I'm concerned about. Haynes says, to mark before removal, then mark on removal to ensure correct engagement of re-fit. If I don't use the original box I haven't got the marks.
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RichardW
- Forum Treasurer
- Posts: 12440
- Joined: 07 Aug 2002, 17:12
- x 1432
I would mark your box and shaft as you remove, as per Haynes. Tansfer the pivot shaft over to the new box (with new bushes which is recommended), and mark the new box by eye in the same place as your old box. Should be near enough to get it back together. I've not done this job (yet), but think once you have the box off, you will understand what you are trying to achieve with getting the clutch mech back together. I guess it will be easier with a hoist or pulley, but should be possible with 2 jacks.
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Jon
Sorry if I've caused confusion here, although Haynes does'nt help.I've never read it.
When I last did one of these I simply removed the retaining clip from the arm, then knocked the pin through. The arm is then free to "waggle" about and you can pull the box off the engine.
When reassembling, its important that the 2 forks of the clutch arm hook into the bearing on the pressure plate. The bearing is actually marked "haut" and "bas" (top and bottom) to assist here. With the bearing roughly in the right place, slide the box part way in, and look up in the gap, you'll be able to see oif the bearing is correctly aligned, if not get your hand up and rotate to the correct position, box should then slide back on. Arm pin and clip are then refitted.
When I last did one of these I simply removed the retaining clip from the arm, then knocked the pin through. The arm is then free to "waggle" about and you can pull the box off the engine.
When reassembling, its important that the 2 forks of the clutch arm hook into the bearing on the pressure plate. The bearing is actually marked "haut" and "bas" (top and bottom) to assist here. With the bearing roughly in the right place, slide the box part way in, and look up in the gap, you'll be able to see oif the bearing is correctly aligned, if not get your hand up and rotate to the correct position, box should then slide back on. Arm pin and clip are then refitted.
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Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- x 2
Ignore the H bollox about marking it, do as Jon says pull the release shaft pin out before you attempt withdrawl of the box, the lever may not come off easily due to rust, but make sure it can turn on the shaft or the box is staying put, deal with that when the box is out.
When putting it back simply position the bearing about right and let the release fork stroke the pressure plate diaphragm as the box is pushed back on, it finds its own way in from there with no trouble, I've never needed two goes at one yet but you must have the box easily manouverable in all directions, including the ability to rotate it slightly, that means not on a jack but suspended.
Before bolting it up, refit and try the lever, as you pull the lever the box should be pulled towards the engine, you know its fully engaged if it does that, plus if you have strong enough hands you can hook your thumbs around the cable anchor bracket and actually fully operate the clutch by pulling the lever with your fingers, I found that easey to do with a new clutch but much more difficult with a part worn one.
Fit new drive shaft seals and release shaft nylon bushes (with a dab of grease) while you're in there, lube the input shaft with a light smear of molybdenum grease.
If you are doing this job on your own with that equipment you are in for a hell of a struggle, my advice would be to buy or make (I made my own) an engine support bar, and hire/beg/borrow an engine lifting crane or block and tackle to lower/lift the box, unles you like to struggle and damage other bits not being worked on that is, seriously forget about doing it with jacks.
You might not think so but there really isn't that much more work involved to lift the whole shebang out (if you have the gear to do it), working on it then is a bloody luxury, worth the effort especialy if it needs timing belt related work any time soon.
If you were closer I'd lend you the clobber.
Dave
When putting it back simply position the bearing about right and let the release fork stroke the pressure plate diaphragm as the box is pushed back on, it finds its own way in from there with no trouble, I've never needed two goes at one yet but you must have the box easily manouverable in all directions, including the ability to rotate it slightly, that means not on a jack but suspended.
Before bolting it up, refit and try the lever, as you pull the lever the box should be pulled towards the engine, you know its fully engaged if it does that, plus if you have strong enough hands you can hook your thumbs around the cable anchor bracket and actually fully operate the clutch by pulling the lever with your fingers, I found that easey to do with a new clutch but much more difficult with a part worn one.
Fit new drive shaft seals and release shaft nylon bushes (with a dab of grease) while you're in there, lube the input shaft with a light smear of molybdenum grease.
If you are doing this job on your own with that equipment you are in for a hell of a struggle, my advice would be to buy or make (I made my own) an engine support bar, and hire/beg/borrow an engine lifting crane or block and tackle to lower/lift the box, unles you like to struggle and damage other bits not being worked on that is, seriously forget about doing it with jacks.
You might not think so but there really isn't that much more work involved to lift the whole shebang out (if you have the gear to do it), working on it then is a bloody luxury, worth the effort especialy if it needs timing belt related work any time soon.
If you were closer I'd lend you the clobber.
Dave
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mipster
- Posts: 113
- Joined: 09 Jan 2003, 00:10
I've had the gearbox out of my TD xantia and it isn't fun - I just had stands and jacks
Ignore all that Haynes rubbish about balancing the gearbox on a jack - It's impossible to manover it enough to disengage it.
My method was to build a frame over the engine bay and support the weight of the gearbox with a strap. I then lay under the gearbox and manoverd it by hand until I had it out with assistance from above to ease the strap as I went.
And don't forget to allign the release fork, It's a pain to take it out again[:(]
mipzter
Ignore all that Haynes rubbish about balancing the gearbox on a jack - It's impossible to manover it enough to disengage it.
My method was to build a frame over the engine bay and support the weight of the gearbox with a strap. I then lay under the gearbox and manoverd it by hand until I had it out with assistance from above to ease the strap as I went.
And don't forget to allign the release fork, It's a pain to take it out again[:(]
mipzter
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gjb02
- Posts: 287
- Joined: 20 Jul 2002, 20:37
Well it seems I'm in for a couple of difficult days!! I don't have a massive budget so I won't be able to hire any tools.
I will be doing the clutch and all seals plus the rear engine mount though to avoid future work.
I understand it won't be easy without the proper gear....but will it be impossible??
If I have the car right up in the air, and use some long guide bolts to help align the gearbox, will this make it easier.
I have some 12mm threaded bar what thread size are the gearbox bolts?
I will be doing the clutch and all seals plus the rear engine mount though to avoid future work.
I understand it won't be easy without the proper gear....but will it be impossible??
If I have the car right up in the air, and use some long guide bolts to help align the gearbox, will this make it easier.
I have some 12mm threaded bar what thread size are the gearbox bolts?
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gjb02
- Posts: 287
- Joined: 20 Jul 2002, 20:37
UPDATE .... Gearbox is out, clutch is off, intermediate driveshaft bearing was seized into mount and buggered. I had to remove the gearbox with the driveshaft attached and the mount, the bearing sits in, attached to that.
A fun day was had by all!![:)]
The clutch friction material wasn't that bad but the springs seats were badly worn. Probably why the clutch was juddering. I now have to find someone who can change the driveshaft bearing, and press a new lower engine mount into the housing.
Ohh, and put it back together by Wednesday night.[V][V]
Any reassembly tips greatly recieved.[:)]
A fun day was had by all!![:)]
The clutch friction material wasn't that bad but the springs seats were badly worn. Probably why the clutch was juddering. I now have to find someone who can change the driveshaft bearing, and press a new lower engine mount into the housing.
Ohh, and put it back together by Wednesday night.[V][V]
Any reassembly tips greatly recieved.[:)]
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gjb02
- Posts: 287
- Joined: 20 Jul 2002, 20:37
Update 2... Job done.[:D][:D][8D]
Gearbox and clutch changed for a smidge under £200. It would have been less if I handn't changed the lower engine mount or the driveshaft bearing hadn't been knackered!![:(!]
I raised the car supported it on axle stands and held the engine with a jack, then I 'man-handled' the gearbox out and back in.
I changed the input shaft seal, driveshaft seals, the lower engine mount and the driveshaft bearing. I then filled up with 2 litres of Total BV 75-80 Gear oil.
Drove the car, permission to enter smug mode???
Thankyou for all the advice.[:)]
Gearbox and clutch changed for a smidge under £200. It would have been less if I handn't changed the lower engine mount or the driveshaft bearing hadn't been knackered!![:(!]
I raised the car supported it on axle stands and held the engine with a jack, then I 'man-handled' the gearbox out and back in.
I changed the input shaft seal, driveshaft seals, the lower engine mount and the driveshaft bearing. I then filled up with 2 litres of Total BV 75-80 Gear oil.
Drove the car, permission to enter smug mode???
Thankyou for all the advice.[:)]