DPF issues 2012 C8 2.0 HDI

[parnell]

OK I finally managed to delete ALL of the fault codes on the car.... and one came straight back - without even starting the car up!
U1213 - again saying that there is zero tyre pressure present , incorrect value received (which is obviously true as the tyres are correctly inflated)

What do you folks think ? Relevant or blind alley?

EDIT If I look in the fault journal I see something else odd - there is a fault related to the left slide door constantly coming and being cleared...

the left hand slide door on this car always gave issues with closing properly in the past

Talk about endless rabbit holes..

[shtu]

EOLYS - what do you want to know?

I had to work through,

Empty tank.
Refilled.
Tank made all the right clicky sounds, but didn't actually move any fluid.
Replaced tank.

FWIW, I've had no probems with mine since I finished all the work required,

Replaced the pressure sensor.
Tried a squirty can DPF cleaner. No effect.
Removed and washed the DPF (I would only backflush now rather than both ways, but it hasn't done any harm)
Replaced the EOLYS tank.
Reset everything.

I do seem to remember a video of tests of assorted DPF cleaning fluids, and alloy wheel cleaner turned out to be highly effective. Ahh yes, this one,

[shtu]

Would you recommend using a chemical dpf cleaner solution as well or just straight to the hose ? (Never mind this question your posts on the topic answered this thanks!) The DPF isnt a nice small bit of metal as on some other models but a single long welded together thing where the DPF itself is welded in - see attached picture - and it must be the portion between the two red lines so I guess Id put the fluid down the bendy end and have the tube held vertically bendy end up so let it steep into the dpf itself - which would be AWAY from the engine and not towards.

On this, remember - it's a filter. It has a "clean" and "dirty" side.

Cleaning fluid can go in the dirty side (ie, side nearest the engine)
Flushing should be done from the clean side (ie, the side furthest way from the engine)

[parnell]

EOLYS - what do you want to know?

I had to work through,

Empty tank.
Refilled.
Tank made all the right clicky sounds, but didn't actually move any fluid.
Replaced tank.

FWIW, I've had no probems with mine since I finished all the work required,

Replaced the pressure sensor.
Tried a squirty can DPF cleaner. No effect.
Removed and washed the DPF (I would only backflush now rather than both ways, but it hasn't done any harm)
Replaced the EOLYS tank.
Reset everything.

I do seem to remember a video of tests of assorted DPF cleaning fluids, and alloy wheel cleaner turned out to be highly effective. Ahh yes, this one,

Replacement sensor is on the way, Im absolutely open to replacing the EOLYS tank - did you also replace the pump with that ? Hope to salvage the 3L or so of EOLYS in the tank if I do go down that route. Question to you - how did you know that it the old tank didnt move any liquid ? Because this might well be my problem - regeneration is happening but no or not enough additive being injected to complete the regen cycle.


Have managed to source Wynns DPF cleaner in Germany now so thats coming next week too. Thanks for all the tips on washing it out.

That fella OReilly is great - I did the DPF test he recommends - putting a finger inside the exhaust - heavy soot contamination - but I'm inclined to think this is a result of my forced regeneration. Still after seeing so many DPF issues dissappear after replacing the passenger door wing mirror (ambient air sensor) Im open to that possibility as well. In fact I think he had a Renault which gave an oil guage fault - related to oil dilution - which for reasons he didnt explain led to him suspecting (correctly) the wing mirror - when I came back this morning from a 65km drive I had a F40A oil guage fault. Hard to get a mirror new but easy to get the ambient temp sensor but a pain in the hole to install that.

Managed to clear all the faults and drove her to the shops and back this morning - 65 kms in total - here are the latest readings from this morning:

at 15kms the pressure at idle (but engine still warm) was 3mbar
soot load had moved to 0.23G/l with a particulate emissions filter temp of 200C
air flow sensor air temp at 24C
air temp at inlet manifod at 36C
authoriation of regen now yes
ability to carry out a regeneration in the short term now changed to 8% (from 0%)

whereas when I got it home - so now at 65kms
pressure at idle again 3mbar
soot load now at 0.97 G/l
particulate emssions filter temp at 227C
air flow sensor air temp at 32C
air temp at inlet manifold at 43C
authorisation of regen at Yes but ability to carry out a regen in short term at 0%

I still intend to wash out the DPF just to give it the very best chance but I think the DPF itself is not the problem.

[shtu]

F40A - you can ignore that, it's essentially a bug in the software. The car takes a while to decide on a level reading, and if it's switched off before it decides, it logs a fault. Very French of it.

Is the air temperature on the dashboard accurate? If it is, it's unlikely you need to replace the mirror or sensor.

EOLYS tank - on mine (Berlingo) the pump is integral to the tank. No fault codes, responded to diagnostics, actuation tests worked, pump made all the right noises, but no fluid came out. Replaced the tank, and transferred the fluid. Wear gloves when you do, that stuff is nasty.

There's a pump test in the diagnostics which runs it long enough to put our approx. 20ml of fluid. Catch the fluid in a container to see what you get, as long as it looks about right that's fine. Also check that the line to the tank isn't blocked. Another use for that chinese knockoff mityvac.


In my case, I think the sequence of events (under a previous owner) was,

Tank ran dry.
Tank was reset without bothering to refill.
Knackered the pump.
Lack of fluid encouraged the DPF to block up.

[parnell]

F40A - you can ignore that, it's essentially a bug in the software. The car takes a while to decide on a level reading, and if it's switched off before it decides, it logs a fault. Very French of it.

Is the air temperature on the dashboard accurate? If it is, it's unlikely you need to replace the mirror or sensor.

EOLYS tank - on mine (Berlingo) the pump is integral to the tank. No fault codes, responded to diagnostics, actuation tests worked, pump made all the right noises, but no fluid came out. Replaced the tank, and transferred the fluid. Wear gloves when you do, that stuff is nasty.

There's a pump test in the diagnostics which runs it long enough to put our approx. 20ml of fluid. Catch the fluid in a container to see what you get, as long as it looks about right that's fine. Also check that the line to the tank isn't blocked. Another use for that chinese knockoff mityvac.


In my case, I think the sequence of events (under a previous owner) was,

Tank ran dry.
Tank was reset without bothering to refill.
Knackered the pump.
Lack of fluid encouraged the DPF to block up.

Is it possible that a too high oil level could cause the faults and the DPF issues - we never had an issue with the car before a garage in Czech republic changed the oil 2 years ago - I had a look at the oil level using the dipstick today - when the car was cold and it is slightly above maximum level (no "MAX" stamped on dipstick just a XXXXX hatched area). Having written that we had just owned the car for 2 years and driven it for maybe 4000kms up to that point . Will take a picture tomorow of the dipstick and post it up.

Will also perform the pump test - can you remember which of the two hoses to disconnect and have pointing into the container ? No idea how to check the line to the tank isnt blocked but surely if the EOLYS stuff comes out on the test Im golden ?

Thanks again dood, you are a lifesaver.

[parnell]

Here comes dipstick pictures as well as a picture of the EOLYs tanks (which just like in shtu's tale of woe has an integrated pump).

Looking first at the dipstick measurements to me it looks a good bit over the last XXX hatching marking. I realise from the label the mechanic put on the car post service that the mileage on the car when this was done was 128400 and so we had driven it 6tkms and not 4tkms without any warnings or faults whatsoever - so now Im half convinced that I should change the oil myself and do it properly (car has only done 4500 kms since then) to eliminate another possible source of fault.

On the other picture - that of the EOLYS tank - which hose to disconnect - top or bottom - before conducting the pump test ?
Thanks again all!

[parnell]

So... I ran the additive pump test with just the top hose in the picture off ... I could hear noises like the pump impeller turning but nothing came out...I tried both hoses off and reran - also nothing came out. I also removed 200ml of oil from the tank and the level is now at two thirds of the hatched dipstick marking.

I will order a new tank now and see how that goes - will also search threads here on how to replace the additive tank on a C8 or Peugeot 807 but if you guys have any immediate tips then Id love to hear em. The defective tank is completely full.

EDIT: I just watched a video and it said the top hose is the fill hose with the bottom being the return hose so I guess that means I need to drop the tank down and collect from another hose exit point to test the pump??

DOUBLE EDIT: In researching the additive tank I now realise that the test should self terminate after a couple of minutes - of course I only let it run for maybe 20 seconds max so I guess i need to rerun that. However the hose thing still haunts me - I suspect I needed a different hose - maybe I should drop down the tank.

[parnell]

As usual I think I have had to do things the hard way. Attached is a picture of a brand new tank.
I believe what I have marked :
red F is the fill hose
red O is the overflow hose - picture shows it upside down as it comes out of the top of the tank
Green circle at the bottom is the electrical connector supplying power to the pump and the orange fella is where the delivery hose connects.


If I'm correct I need to disconnect that delivery hose - even better if I could do at the other end (which I presume goes into the diesel tank) to perform the additive flow test. Of course to do this I probably need to drop the tank down to get access to where the orange fella is.

Can someone please confirm ?? Thanks .

[shtu]

Don't waste time dropping the fuel tank, there's no need.

To check the pipe to the tank isn't blocked, blow through it. I would not do that with your mouth anywhere near the pipes, that stuff is toxic. It's a use for that chinese knockoff mityvac I keep mentioning.

If there was nothing at all coming out of the pump outlet, sounds knackered. It doesn't shift huge volumes, but there should be a noticeable amount - I used a small container to catch the fluid from the test.

Changing the EOLYS tank should be obvious, just look at it. Transferring the fluid is very easy if you have the pipe from a refill kit, only slightly harder if you don't.

[parnell]

Don't waste time dropping the fuel tank, there's no need.

To check the pipe to the tank isn't blocked, blow through it. I would not do that with your mouth anywhere near the pipes, that stuff is toxic. It's a use for that chinese knockoff mityvac I keep mentioning.

If there was nothing at all coming out of the pump outlet, sounds knackered. It doesn't shift huge volumes, but there should be a noticeable amount - I used a small container to catch the fluid from the test.

Changing the EOLYS tank should be obvious, just look at it. Transferring the fluid is very easy if you have the pipe from a refill kit, only slightly harder if you don't.

Mate please take a look at the picture I posted above - I think I checked the wrong two hoses - the fill and the overflow. I think I should have checked whether EOLYS fluid came out of the orange stopped bit - marked with the green circle ? Is this what you refer to as the "pump outlet" ? If you confirm this understanding to be correct I will check this tomorow and either way its I will know where I stand. I still have the pipe from the refill kit but a new tank is like 250 euro - which if that gets me out of trouble Im happy enough to pay.

The "pipe to the tank" you mention in your post - I think you refer to the pipe between the orange fellow (again marked with green circle) and the diesel tank - where the additive should be delivered to ? I was thinking I could take one of my sons steel replacement brake cables and pass it through feeling for any blockages. Please again correct me if Im wrong and thanks again - your posts have helped me a lot already.

[shtu]

Mate please take a look at the picture I posted above - I think I checked the wrong two hoses - the fill and the overflow. I think I should have checked whether EOLYS fluid came out of the orange stopped bit - marked with the green circle ? Is this what you refer to as the "pump outlet" ? If you confirm this understanding to be correct I will check this tomorow and either way its I will know where I stand. I still have the pipe from the refill kit but a new tank is like 250 euro - which if that gets me out of trouble Im happy enough to pay.

The "pipe to the tank" you mention in your post - I think you refer to the pipe between the orange fellow (again marked with green circle) and the diesel tank - where the additive should be delivered to ? I was thinking I could take one of my sons steel replacement brake cables and pass it through feeling for any blockages. Please again correct me if Im wrong and thanks again - your posts have helped me a lot already.

1 - Yes, it's the outlet on the tank itself, right next to the electrical connector. Covered by an orange cap in your photo of a new one.

2 - It's fairly unlikely that the EOLYS pipe to the tank is blocked. Don't risk damaging it by shoving cable through it.

If you do want to test it (or any of the other pipework), a chinese knockoff mityvac is the thing to use, eg, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155499204330

3 - Don't panic, don't overthink it. The DPF and EOLYS systems are actually quite simple once you spend some time working them out.

You have a new pressure sensor, fit it. Check the difference at idle and 3000rpm static.
If those numbers prove the DPF is clogged, take it off and clean it.
Check the EOLYS tank is putting out fluid. If it's not, replace it.
When you're done, tell the car it's had new a new DPF, and the tank refilled.