Some puzzles for me and my 307

[AK83]

Hey Ozfrog. ... I dunno about those screwdrivers, but can fully sympathise with the back problem ... and mine is 10 years newer! Good to see your back allowed a resolution of the bonnet catch.

I don't know why folks question the gearing and speed problem trying to climb hills. Where I live is no hills for about 100klms, but on my commute to and from Melb(as little as I can) I got some fairly steep hills. My 307 is the 1.6Hdi variety and can assure you you should hit those 'moderate' hills no problem in any gear. Looks to me like you have the 2.0 lt Hdi there, but don't know. I have a 3008 2.0 lt hdi and looks different. And my 1.6 Hdi also looks different ... the one with the air filter that can't really be accessed! :p

Can't help with the codes, but some speculation for 'ya. Have to tried to drive it uphill with the Air Flow Meter disconnected?
I have(had/have/had/have ... it comes and goes) a problem with my 1.6. If I connect the MAF, it runs rough! Disconnect and it runs OK. I did once have issue with the fuel pressure sensor(not regulator), changed that and ran fine, then had more trouble ... etc. Car still runs fine. Currently running without MAF connected and no real problems. Only variable that affects 'something' is ambient temp. When hot, runs bad, when cold, runs OK. Plans afoot to acquire a new MAF, but I think more in it than just MAF. I noticed one day recently a 'cooler' of some kind under the drivers side. I think fuel(maybe), and clogged with crud. Have to clean it out too.
But my 307 issue(on hot days) is very obvious ... it 'cuts out' like a micro shut down, wouldn't even call it a miss ... it feels more like engine off for a 1/10th of a sec ... This usually happens at 100k/h or more(hot day). Now in slightly cooler weather, it's not as bad. When it does do this micro shut down, I slow to about 95k/h and it runs fine. Very shallow inclines exaggerate the problem too.

I don't think this is your problem, but changing stuff can reveal ways to diagnose stuff.
I don't know what tools you have access too, but considering the depth of the faults, it would be worthwhile for you to watch a few DiagnoseDan vids on Youtube.

[AK83]

Moderation is a bit glacial, but I'll try to persevere a bit, hope my replies get approved quickly:

Cruise/limiter ... check the brake switch. Brake lights can still work, but cruise switch may be dud. Answer to how I know this ... pretty obvious.
Easy to get too, even for a 70yo back. Not the easiest, but far from the hardest too(try it in a '90s era Discovery!). You can remove and test for continuity across some pins. Sorry can't recall the pins exactly, but wasn't hard to find info.

Fuse box shouldn't be too hard to find. I'm waiting for my 3008 fusebox to come from Aliexpress. Quite an obvious printed part number on it.

On my 307(2004) the fuse box part number is on a white sticker along the thin edge closest to engine side of the rim(cover off). It is under the main cluster of wires going across and down the fusebox RHS as you look at it, so may have to gently move wires aside.
Sorry don't have an easily accessible online space for images at the moment so can't post an image. My part number is 9650664180 BSM B2. Quick search on Ali(again) I see them for about $80ish(Au).

Alternatively, the Peugeot part number for fuse box( 2 of them depending on release) are 6500.Y3 and 6500.Y1. Search them, but you get so many different part numbers ... never too sure how they pan out in terms of compatibility.

[MattBLancs]

I don't know why folks question the gearing and speed problem trying to climb hills.

Questioned the gearing as 43 mph in 6th gear would be barely above idle speed, so I'm not surprised it'll not climb a decent hill at such low rpm

Looks to me like you have the 2.0 lt Hdi there, but don't know. I have a 3008 2.0 lt hdi and looks different. And my 1.6 Hdi also looks different ... the one with the air filter that can't really be accessed! :p

Yep, to confirm that's the 2.0 16v HDi engine.

1.6 HDi air filter over the back of the engine, tucked under the windscreen is a pain to access!

I noticed one day recently a 'cooler' of some kind under the drivers side. I think fuel(maybe), and clogged with crud. Have to clean it out too.

Fuel compressed by the injection pump gets hot, so that returned to the tank passes through that cooler under the car.
Generally excellent gravel trap, Ive not seen one clogged with mud but guess in the UK they get "pressure washed" by driving in wet roads often.

But my 307 issue(on hot days) is very obvious ... it 'cuts out' like a micro shut down, wouldn't even call it a miss ... it feels more like engine off for a 1/10th of a sec ... This usually happens at 100k/h or more(hot day). Now in slightly cooler weather, it's not as bad. When it does do this micro shut down, I slow to about 95k/h and it runs fine. Very shallow inclines exaggerate the problem too.

I don't think this is your problem, but changing stuff can reveal ways to diagnose stuff.
I don't know what tools you have access too, but considering the depth of the faults, it would be worthwhile for you to watch a few DiagnoseDan vids on Youtube.

Have you a thread dedicated to your problem described above? Add a link here and we can avoid muddling two cars issues in the one discussion

Moderation is a bit glacial, but...

.... Is entirely by volunteers and they may have real world lives to balance too!
Don't look a gift horse in the mouth as the saying goes

[myglaren]

Moderation is a bit glacial, but...

.... Is entirely by volunteers and they may have real world lives to balance too!
Don't look a gift horse in the mouth as the saying goes

Also note the time difference between Oz and the UK.

[mickthemaverick]

Moderation is a bit glacial, but I'll try to persevere a bit, hope my replies get approved quickly:

Your posts were approved within an hour of you writing them, Note the comments above and beware, Glaciers have been known to destroy everything within them!!

[AK83]

Haha! ... apologies for the glacial comment.
IIRC I posted at (my time) 12am, then checked at 1430 or so(my time) ... then came back at 1630ish(my time) and was still under review .. or what I could see at my end.
My second post, where I recalled the cruise control/limiter issue and for the OP to check the brake switch.

@ mattblancs .. I understand gearing and torque(ex truck driver) .. but recall that the OP was originally doing 90k/h ... 56mph as someone pointed out .. and slowing.
My 3008 is 6 speed auto, I use it in manual 99% of the time. It will easily climb a very steep grade in 6th at 90 locked and held manually in 6th .. @ 1500 or so RPM .. no problem.
OP also mentioned moderate grade hill.

I won't muddle my issues in this thread. I'm confident I will sort it out myself anyhow, I posted the info for the OP to let them know there are different ways that power can be down on a vehicle .. eg. a blown turbo or turbo hose come off is different kind of loss of power compared to how my 307 reacts(to hot ambient temps).

Would be interesting to know from OP, how is the car losing power? Is it a gradual loss, is it a 'miss' type, hickuping loss of power, or is it like in my case I have to back off keep revs down and slow down, else my 307 will starve of fuel and actually stop ... kind of loss of power.

[MattBLancs]

@ mattblancs .. I understand gearing and torque(ex truck driver) .. but recall that the OP was originally doing 90k/h ... 56mph as someone pointed out .. and slowing.
My 3008 is 6 speed auto, I use it in manual 99% of the time. It will easily climb a very steep grade in 6th at 90 locked and held manually in 6th .. @ 1500 or so RPM .. no problem.
OP also mentioned moderate grade hill.

Yes, no problem I understand where you're coming from.
Perhaps my moderate is steeper than your moderate

My initial remarks were more that if the OP was still expecting the car to pull in sixth, up hill, at 43 mph/ XX km/HR = 1170 rpm then I wasn't surprised the car wasn't having it (again, subject to steepness of the climb)

I won't muddle my issues in this thread. I'm confident I will sort it out myself anyhow, I posted the info for the OP to let them know there are different ways that power can be down on a vehicle .. eg. a blown turbo or turbo hose come off is different kind of loss of power compared to how my 307 reacts(to hot ambient temps).

Would be interesting to know from OP, how is the car losing power? Is it a gradual loss, is it a 'miss' type, hickuping loss of power, or is it like in my case I have to back off keep revs down and slow down, else my 307 will starve of fuel and actually stop ... kind of loss of power.

Good luck with your own fix, as before if you'd like the collective wisdom of the forum, stick a thread up and we can have a group head scratch.

Good questions on the nature of the loss - anything descriptive on how it is performing all helps

[ozfrog]

Hey Ozfrog. ... I dunno about those screwdrivers, but can fully sympathise with the back problem ... and mine is 10 years newer! Good to see your back allowed a resolution of the bonnet catch.

It was all a matter of trial and error - fitting my back into the available space. But that screwdriver was invaluable, and I'm glad I had it in the passenger footwell next to me when I discovered the exact problem. The thought of getting out and up, and then having to get myself back into that same position still doesn't fill me with delight.

I don't know why folks question the gearing and speed problem trying to climb hills.

Yeah, I've felt a bit strange having to almost justify the car's ability to get up those hills in 6th gear. But usually it would happily zip up and down that road in 6th. It would look at those hills and laugh.

• "They aren't hills! I'll show you that I can even accelerate up them. Oops, I forgot about the cop cars. I'd better not show you too much about my ability …"

Where I live is no hills for about 100klms, but on my commute to and from Melb (as little as I can) I got some fairly steep hills.

Are you east of the Dandenongs? I'm trying to think of an area that fits steep hills but also no hills (presumably the other direction). And at least you don't have to commute to Sydney. I grew up there and I get real panic attacks just visiting there now, let alone driving into Sydney.

I'm just north of Wagga Wagga, by the way. But we're more important than that big place because we have a real railway museum, the rail double track stops where we live, and we have a chocolate and liquorice factory.

My 307 is the 1.6Hdi variety

I didn't even know that the 1.6 litre was brought to Australia! What year model is yours?

and can assure you you should hit those 'moderate' hills no problem in any gear. Looks to me like you have the 2.0 lt Hdi there, but don't know.

You're right. It's the 2.0 litre 16 valve, variously referred to as 136, or 135, or maybe even 85. But those numbers don't make sense to me. 100 Kw converts to 135 Hp. And yes, it usually does hit those hills with no problems. When the car is behaving properly, I haven't tried driving up in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, or probably even 4th. And definitely not in Reverse.

I have a 3008 2.0 lt hdi and looks different. And my 1.6 Hdi also looks different ... the one with the air filter that can't really be accessed! :p

What year model 3008? My financial advisor and controller wife drives a 2011 3008, 2.0 litre HDi. I think the engines in the 307 and the 3008 are entirely different beasts. The 307 has the RHR type of engine. The 3008 has the RHH type of engine. I've taken both from the VIN.

Can't help with the codes, but some speculation for 'ya. Have to tried to drive it uphill with the Air Flow Meter disconnected?

Unless someone else has done disconnected it and not told me, then the answer is no. I have never knowingly driven the car with the AFM disconnected.

I have(had/have/had/have ... it comes and goes) a problem with my 1.6. If I connect the MAF, it runs rough! Disconnect and it runs OK. I did once have issue with the fuel pressure sensor(not regulator), changed that and ran fine, then had more trouble ... etc. Car still runs fine. Currently running without MAF connected and no real problems. Only variable that affects 'something' is ambient temp. When hot, runs bad, when cold, runs OK. Plans afoot to acquire a new MAF, but I think more in it than just MAF. I noticed one day recently a 'cooler' of some kind under the drivers side. I think fuel(maybe), and clogged with crud. Have to clean it out too.

My car doesn't seem to be affected by ambient temperature. But what's the MAF?

But my 307 issue(on hot days) is very obvious ... it 'cuts out' like a micro shut down, wouldn't even call it a miss ... it feels more like engine off for a 1/10th of a sec ... This usually happens at 100k/h or more(hot day). Now in slightly cooler weather, it's not as bad. When it does do this micro shut down, I slow to about 95k/h and it runs fine. Very shallow inclines exaggerate the problem too.

My 307 will, or used to, shut down at low engine revs and especially when the engine was not properly warmed up.
Changing the alternator has reduced the frequency of this occurring to negligible levels.

I don't think this is your problem, but changing stuff can reveal ways to diagnose stuff.

Are you suggesting more 'trial and error'? Or maybe, 'trial by error'? Mechanics don't work like that!

I don't know what tools you have access to

Neither do I, sometimes!

but considering the depth of the faults, it would be worthwhile for you to watch a few DiagnoseDan vids on Youtube.

I've never heard of him, but I shall try and find him. I'll come back and ask you for directions if I can't find him.

Finally, if the letters in your username are your initials, then I approve. But if the number is the year that you were born, I've got more than 10 years of extra wear on my back. However, that number could be the number of Peugeots you own. And that would be a very cool number.

[ozfrog]

Cruise/limiter ... check the brake switch. Brake lights can still work, but cruise switch may be dud. Answer to how I know this ... pretty obvious.

Had I mentioned the cruise control errors? I don't remember doing so, but my brain is not always reliable. I tell people that I have a forgettory, not a memory.

That aside, when I turn on either the cruise or the speed limiter, everything is fine until I push the button on the end of the stalk. Then I usually get 'Err' in the display where the set speed should be, followed by flashing dashes. When that happens, it is always (I think) accompanied by the 'Check engine' light being illuminated.

Sometimes it will set correctly at the speed I'm travelling.

Rarely I get no message but the speed limit is set at 30 km/h if I'm on the cruise setting. Or 30 if I'm on the limiter setting.

Easy to get too, even for a 70yo back. Not the easiest, but far from the hardest too(try it in a '90s era Discovery!). You can remove and test for continuity across some pins. Sorry can't recall the pins exactly, but wasn't hard to find info.

Are you talking about the cruise control switch? If so, I was planning on leaving it aside until the engine codes are sorted. I'm hoping that other side issues like cruise control will be fixed as a result of those codes being fixed.

Fuse box shouldn't be too hard to find.

I have thought about replacing the fuse box under the bonnet. One bloke from Aussiefrogs was convinced that the fusebox was the source of all troubles with this car. But he dropped the ball and stopped communicating with me, so I was never able to finish diagnosing anything properly. I haven't been back to Aussiefrogs for about 18 months now.

I'm waiting for my 3008 fusebox to come from Aliexpress. Quite an obvious printed part number on it.

What fault are you trying to fix by replacing the complete fusebox? They aren't cheap, so it seems like a drastic step!

On my 307(2004) the fuse box part number is on a white sticker along the thin edge closest to engine side of the rim (cover off). It is under the main cluster of wires going across and down the fusebox RHS as you look at it, so may have to gently move wires aside.

If I need a part number for something like that, I will usually phone a dealer, or at least a parts shop that has access or original part numbers from my VIN. (And that reminds me. My owners book has fallen apart so I took it to a printer to get them to stick it all back together and bind it. I didn't ask them to check, but they checked that all of the pages were there - and they weren't! And I can't find my exact manual online. So I'm going to have to contact Peugeot Australia and hope that they have access to original Owner's Manuals. All I want is some scanned pages …)

Sorry don't have an easily accessible online space for images at the moment so can't post an image

I've learned recently that you can import images directly into your post. That might assist you in the future. If I was really helpful, I'd point you to the instructions for how to do it, but suffice to say click on the attachments tab below the box where you're typing your message. Click 'Add files', and that will open a file finder box that allows you to select the image you want to insert. As far as I know, you have to do each image individually, and you must click the 'Place inline' button' after inserting each image. (To delete an image, just click the 'Delete image' button. Don't try and click on the file name and then click the delete button. You'll almost certainly get yourself into a mess, just like I did.)

My part number is 9650664180 BSM B2. Quick search on Ali (again) I see them for about $80ish(Au).

For a fuse box? That seems too cheap! Is it only the plastic housing?

Alternatively, the Peugeot part number for fuse box (2 of them depending on release) are 6500.Y3 and 6500.Y1. Search them, but you get so many different part numbers ... never too sure how they pan out in terms of compatibility.

That's why I contact a dealer. They look up the parts book by my VIN and tell me exactly what part number I need for my vehicle

[MattBLancs]

A few answers to try and help:
MAF = Mass Air Flow = AFM = Air Flow Meter
"Tomato / tomato"
Not to be confused with a MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor.
The diesels have MAF in my experience, petrols can have AFM / MAF or MAP. Don't think both, but someone might know better.

Images uploaded to the forum is most reliable easiest method. No Image Shack / Photo Bucket nonsense.

You can upload multiple at once (at least from phone you can)

Don't need to click "place inline", they'll appear at the end of your post as attachments if you don't.

[myglaren]

You can upload multiple at once (at least from phone you can)

Don't need to click "place inline", they'll appear at the end of your post as attachments if you don't.

You can drag or select multiple images with no bother.

The "Place Inline" is to be able to lace each individual image at relevant points in the text.

Also be aware that images from phone cameras often 'fall over' or invert when uploaded/uploaded and zoomed. They need to be rotated 90° one way or the other, then rotated back again, then saved before uploading.

[AK83]

......

Where I live is no hills for about 100klms, but on my commute to and from Melb (as little as I can) I got some fairly steep hills.

Are you east of the Dandenongs? I'm trying to think of an area that fits steep hills but also no hills (presumably the other direction). And at least you don't have to commute to Sydney. I grew up there and I get real panic attacks just visiting there now, let alone driving into Sydney.

I'm just north of Wagga Wagga, by the way. But we're more important than that big place because we have a real railway museum, the rail double track stops where we live, and we have a chocolate and liquorice factory.

.....

Nah! I'm much closer to you than that ... Pyramid Hill(west of Echuca). Flatter than a pancake out here, but I drive regularly to Melb to see kids. Hills I refer too are between Castlemaine and Sunbury, and flat parts is me, here. Elevation is 100m above sea, from here to eternity(ie. Bendigo).

3008 is close to yours, 2012 2.0Hdi. Main reason I mention it is the big difference between the 2.0 and the 1.6 in my 307. When I moved up here I towed all my household via trailers, about 10 trips in total. 307 drives easy up the Sunbury hills, but struggled with towing not so heavy trailer(maybe 300-400kg). 3008 was a different beast entirely. Where the 307 would lose speed at say 90 in top .. down to 70-ish in 4th(5sp), the 3008 with about 800kgs easily accelerated from 90 to 110 in manual 6th(auto) ... ie. torque at 90 in 6th is plenty enough to pull up steep hills .. that was the point I was making. Don't get me wrong tho ... 1.6 in the 307 is awesome. I'm getting a real 4 - 4.5 l/100 ... so trips to melb aren't sucking the life out of my already lifeless hip pocket.

airflow meter is usually called MAF(mass air flow). It's no problem to drive without. Obviously the MIL(engine light) will come on, but what happens is that the ECU will run a known default program for fuelling. I have PP/Diagbox, and already know that the AMF is cactus, but to confirm that it was cactus disconnect it, and car runs OK(not perfect, but drives better) compared to running totally crap with it connected. I've had it disconnected for about 2 years now .. wasn't long after I moved up here(from Mel). Sorry I don't know where it's mounted on your 2 lt, on the 1.6 it's easy to see, disconnect and reconnect. But for a test drive, easy to do a check on your MAF if you don't have diagnostic software.

Sorry, what I meant about changing stuff .. things like disconnecting(eg. MAF). among other things I can't recall right now. IIRC(memory vague) but I once had issue with the fuel pressure sensor. Brother used it once to drive to Murray region(from Mel). He's not the most sympathetic driver, he made it to about Benalla-ish area, and called me to recover him. I gave him the Discovery to continue. 307 was a non starter(again .. ISH!) I got it started, and drove gently and found it coughing and spluttering if driven normally. I had my diagnostic tool(Autel) and found that the fuel pressure was very low .. if fuel pressure is actually low .. then car will not really run at all, so my guess was sensor. Disconnected sensor and car ran ok(up to about 100k/h) .. or more accurately 2200RPM. So in 4th that'd be about 80-90k/h. Got home no problem. This is the kind of thing I meant by 'changing stuff'. Sensor was cheap, changed and car now OK(other than hot ambient running at highway speeds .. sometimes).
Disconnecting sensors and switches doesn't cost anything and can reveal a lot about the underlying issue.

DignoseDan is easily found on Youtube .. his channel name. Again, his channel, if you watch it long enough, is about disconnecting stuff. He diagnoses(funnily enough) serious electrical issues with modern cars .. and their CAN(or CANNOT!!) systems. He traces CAN signal faults, and then usually goes about disconnecting subsystems(ECUs) to see which one is muddling the CAN network .. many of his vids are about this sort of trouble shooting. Obviously you can't disconnect the BSI or fusebox and have the car running, with the correct diagnostic tools, you can track down which(if any) sub system can convolute the CAN network and cause troubles. This could be a problem with your system, not saying it is, but consider the possibility. eg. while you have all those errors AND the cruise non working, again it could just be coincidence, and that the brake pedal switch just happened to fail at this time too. Your description of the CC issue .. Err and flashing dashes ... what I had. I think I found that fix on Youtube too .. check the brake switch. If you have a multimeter, IIRC the vid I found showed which pins to test for continuity. And to be sure, check all your brake lights are working too. I know an obvious thing .. but blown brake bulbs, no CC. (quick side story: I once spent about 4 hours trying to work out why all the brake lights on my Disco2 weren't working. changed the pedal switch, checked wiring, checked wiring at the back of the light cluster .. to find power. Then it hit me .. damned bulbs blown ... all 3 of them at the same time. Another thing to watch for .. if you have used cheap LED bulbs for brake lights. If no resistor/CAN recognition, again CC won't work. CC sense resistance on the brake light system, and won't work without them. I'm sure that LED bulbs isnt' your issue, or you'd probably see a globe error bulb somewhere on your dash .. just some info for you to consider.

AK83 is shorthand for my old courier days. My name is Arthur, surname unfortunately doesn't begin with K .. K is for king .. I was nicknamed this for my ability to deliver quickly, and 83 was my number back then.
Just a 'handle' that stuck for close to 40 years. Unfortunately the year of birth is way before that number in the 20th ... 17 years way before. And yeah, so many Peugoets(and Landrovers) would be great .. and a heated discussion my missus loves to delve into. ATM I have as many Pugs as LR(disco 2) that actually self propel themselves .. but a couple of zombie LR(again D2) one for scrap, the other for 'project next'.

For parts you can search Catcar.info. Look for Peugeot, 307, look for your engine, etc. Easy to find the parts for your car that way. They give a Peugeot part number, and it's easily cross referenced with real part numbers. Oh! and don't be fooled by genuine parts rubbish. Peugeot are in the business of making cars and some parts for them. Not fuseboxes, nor relay for fuseboxes .. or MAF or suspension arms or bushes for suspension arms ... etc. They acquire these items from manufacturers that make those parts. Many if not all of those manufacturers have those parts made in China! I'm about to find out how good/bad these parts are(I have a fusebox for my 3008 coming from Ali). Cheap is because of it's age and it's lesser complexity(than say the 3008 fusebox). I recently received a info/display screen(centre dash thing) from Ali. Not an easy job to replace. never done that kind of soldering before, but worked a treat. I have my display back now. less than $20. Hopefully this week the fusebox will come, and I'll let you know if it's any good.

Don't fall into the trap that Chinese electrical, by default, is all bad. Some of their stuff is not just good, but much better value for money compared to supposed quality stuff, and always remember they are the land of manufacturing .. must be close to 90% of manufactured stuff comes from there. Stuff like wheel bearings .. yes, avoid like the plague. Injectors, turbos .. avoid. Seen these for myself and seen much internet info about cases both for and against Chinese made goods.

[AK83]

.....
The diesels have MAF in my experience, petrols can have AFM / MAF or MAP. Don't think both, but someone might know better.

....

Modern diesels have MAP sensors. I can't think of any modern diesel that isn't turbo charged .. and turbo means pressure ... so MAP is essential.

diesels don't need MAF, petrol do. I think really modern diesels(ie. in the last few years ... not 20 year old designs) may require a working MAF. But MAFs in diesels of about 10+ years of age are not really required(for the engine to operate). About the 200 era when EGR became a common thing(emissions) MAFs usually only related to the operation of the EGR. You could easily disconnect a MAF and the engine would run perfectly fine. Maybe no so happy in a petrol engine tho ... too many times in years gone by I ran petrol motors and failed MAF = pretty much a non runner.

One of my Discovery 2's recently suffered a failed MAF. Was driving missus to the airport(2.5hr drive). Going up one of the aforementoned steep hills ... god damned D2 slowed to about 60k/h. This freeway is usually quite busy and 60k/h could have been a major annoyance for some traffic .. but at 3am ... only annoyance was suffered by me .. this thing usually flies up this hill. No time to stop, too dark, had to get to airport. From this point, the majority of the drive was manageable. Dropped missues off, pulled up at the first servo, disconnected MAF, on the return trip, the steeper hills heading home were of no consequence. MAF in this model is used for fuelling, that is ECU uses the MAF readings to calculate how much injection is needed. But when broken, RCU gives bad fuelling amount .. hence no power. Disconnected the MAF, now ECU has to use a default programmed fuel mix(using temp sensor and MAP readings) ... and bingo .. up hill is no longer annoying. Anyhow, I used the MAF off my other D2 on the one that's dud, and confirmed MAF is dead. dead MAF in the other D2 is no problem .. its disconnected...
That was all back in Dec, and both too forgetful and lazy to try to remember ... NEED to get MAFs(both D2 and 307) ...

[ozfrog]

And to be sure, check all your brake lights are working too. I know an obvious thing .. but blown brake bulbs, no CC. (quick side story: I once spent about 4 hours trying to work out why all the brake lights on my Disco2 weren't working. changed the pedal switch, checked wiring, checked wiring at the back of the light cluster .. to find power. Then it hit me .. damned bulbs blown ... all 3 of them at the same time. Another thing to watch for .. if you have used cheap LED bulbs for brake lights. If no resistor/CAN recognition, again CC won't work. CC sense resistance on the brake light system, and won't work without them. I'm sure that LED bulbs isnt' your issue, or you'd probably see a globe error bulb somewhere on your dash .. just some info for you to consider.

I'm just picking out some easy stuff to look at right now.

All brake lights working? Does that include the 'eye-level' brake light bulbs?

We have annual registration checks in this state. Both left and right brake lights have to work to pass registration, and the car passed at the beginning of this month. I don't know if the 'eye-level' brake lights are checked to the same degree of rigour. They might be, depending on the person doing the test. I just don't know. And even in the dark, it is difficult, when you're sitting in the driver seat, to check if all of those little globes are working!

I did put some non-CANBUS LEDs in this car by mistake a year or two ago. I don't recall any warning light on the dash. But as I'm typing this, I seem to recall that it was logged in the system log (deep in the menu system) on the display just above the air conditioning controls are.

I was going to replace the indicator bulbs with proper LEDs in the rear of the 307 because they were both very dim. I noticed it when I was locking and unlocking the car, but one side was much worse than the other.

After I removed the lamp cluster and cleaned out half of the Simpson Desert between the two clusters, 'Oh, look, those globes don't seem to be sitting in the globe socket very far. Maybe I should try pushing them in and see what happens.' It's amazing what proper seating does. So I removed them, cleaned another load of dust, put the globes back in and this time I turned them to try and ensure they don't come out just by driving down the road.

If you have a multimeter

Yes, but not completely competent with it. And even more lacking in confidence with it.

[MattBLancs]

If you have a multimeter

Yes, but not completely competent with it. And even more lacking in confidence with it.

Stick a picture of your meter up on here, I'm sure we can talk you through it (easiest if we can see what you've got to play with)