Some puzzles for me and my 307

[ozfrog]

P1403 and P1404 relate to the addition water heating block on the bulkhead below the windscreen.

If you need if I can find the link to one of my recent posts about repairing mine. I had the codes for 3.5 years and only just got around to it in December 2025.

Yes, please.

I’ve had some fun reading your posts from December last year, but I must have missed the one this refers to. Sorry about that.

[Rhothgar]

Ozfrog.

viewtopic.php?p=862052#p862052

and

viewtopic.php?t=83738&start=45

Towards bottom of page 4 December 2025 you will see photo of thick white switched earth wire that earths the heater via ECU.

Two relays within engine compartment fuse box control the switching power.

If unclear, just ask. DON’T go applying 12V ANYWHERE unless you are clear of the risks. Not worth blowing your ECU. Always make sure ECU connector is disconnected if applying power to any wire.

[ozfrog]

Rhothgar

Thanks for the links.

And thanks also for the advice. I’ll be sure to follow your advice about not blowing up the ECU!

But first I need to get the bonnet open. Yes, I know how to do that, but only when the lever in the front passenger footwell is connected and working.

The bonnet release lever has disconnected itself from the side firewall. I don’t know if this shows very well what I’m talking about, but I can try! If you need to ask me questions about it, go ahead.

Ozfrog.

viewtopic.php?p=862052#p862052

and

viewtopic.php?t=83738&start=45

Towards bottom of page 4 December 2025 you will see photo of thick white switched earth wire that earths the heater via ECU.

Two relays within engine compartment fuse box control the switching power.

If unclear, just ask. DON’T go applying 12V ANYWHERE unless you are clear of the risks. Not worth blowing your ECU. Always make sure ECU connector is disconnected if applying power to any wire.

[Rhothgar]

I cannot make head nor tail of that picture. Sorry!

[Rhothgar]

Yes. I can. I guess so. It looks identical.

Try using an index finger and thumb to act as fulcrum whilst 'pulling' lever with other hand and see if that works.

It's nearly midnight here. I am b*ll*****d. Spent afternoon cloning current working ECU onto new £15.98 replacement ECU from Ebay. Car starts and runs but then spent hours trying to erase fault codes which REFUSE to clear and more hours reading up on internet to try and find out how to erase DTC registers in EEPROM or Flash File. No-one seems to know on another 'specialist' forum I have joined and some peoples' descriptive talents are beyond s**t!

I cannot spend another weekend trying to resolve these bloody ECU issues I am having. So glad I don't live in Bristol...

[ozfrog]

Yes. I can. I guess so. It looks identical.

Try using an index finger and thumb to act as fulcrum whilst 'pulling' lever with other hand and see if that works.

I’ve been trying that but I don’t think I can get enough leverage. I think that’s what the problem is.

It's nearly midnight here.

Yes, I know. I just rang my sister

I am b*ll*****d.

Sorry, I’m not forum staff. I can’t read those obfuscated words!

Spent afternoon cloning current working ECU onto new £15.98 replacement ECU from Ebay. Car starts and runs but then spent hours trying to erase fault codes which REFUSE to clear and more hours reading up on internet to try and find out how to erase DTC registers in EEPROM or Flash File. No-one seems to know on another 'specialist' forum I have joined

What’s that old adage about you can have good, or you can have cheap, or you can have fast. Pick any two, but you can’t have all three. It’s usually applied to manufacturing or maybe mechanics, but I think it’s got wider application than those two things. I’m not having an go at you. I would probably do the same thing and buy the cheapest option as long as it is given with a guarantee to work. But then having to account for your time to make it work is another factor that I don’t take into consideration. When my wife questions me about a choice I have made like that, she usually asks me what my time is worth. I tell her that now that I’m retired, it’s worth nothing! And then the arguments begin …

Oh, and you know that if you had been trying to keep the information EEPROMS, you would have erased them faster than you could blink.

… and some peoples' descriptive talents are beyond s**t!

I still can’t read those obfuscated words, but I did manage to guess this one! On the other hand, I usually get told that I provide too much detail or information. But I’d rather do that than have to make people come back time and again asking questions that I should have provided them in the first place.

So glad I don't live in Bristol...

What did Bristol ever do to you?

[Rhothgar]

I self obfuscate.

There's nothing wrong with the new ECU as it is cloned from the current working one. I guess that cloned the fault code DTC registers across so fault code deletion issue still remains.

I know that the new Lexia is working because I've tested it on another car. This issue seems very specific to this particular ECU.

I wish you luck with that lever. It's in a horrible position to try and resolve though it does look as though it will clip back in. You might have to give yourself some slack by unhooking the bonnet end. But, then again, you cannot get IN!!!

I think I know want to KEEP the EEPROM! Good thinking.

I've nothing against Bristol but it does have a very high and useful suspension bridge for those in distress...

That was my train of thought last night!

[ozfrog]

I self obfuscate.

I had hoped you (and any others reading this thread) would recognise my comment as a joke. I apologise if it wasn't clear, and if I offended you or anyone else.

There's nothing wrong with the new ECU as it is cloned from the current working one. I guess that cloned the fault code DTC registers across so fault code deletion issue still remains.

You're outside my league, but I understand the principle. I don't know how you solve that.

I wish you luck with that lever. It's in a horrible position to try and resolve, though it does look as though it will clip back in. You might have to give yourself some slack by unhooking the bonnet end. But, then again, you cannot get IN!!!

I agree that it looks like it should clip back in. But I haven't been able to find any images online of it in situ. There must be some, but my searching skills are not up to the task.

I'd also be surprised if I'm the first 307 owner who's encountered the lever coming away from the side wall. I can't remember exactly when the 307 was introduced, but it was in the early 2000s, I think. In 20+ years, am I the only person to have encountered this problem? Am I the only person who has tried to fix the problem themself? And there are no videos online with guides to repair? I know I'm unique, but this is ridiculous! A 70ish year old back isn't ideal for getting down into that space and twisting to be in a good position for re-inserting (or whatever else is required) the lever into the 'holder'.

I've nothing against Bristol, but it does have a very high and useful suspension bridge for those in distress...

Is that the really high, arched, and well-lit at night bridge near Bristol that crosses a river into Wales?

I don't know the bridge you're talking about, sorry.

That was my train of thought last night!

Please don't joke about that stuff. It is too close to home for some people.

[Rhothgar]

I had hoped you (and any others reading this thread) would recognise my comment as a joke. I apologise if it wasn't clear, and if I offended you or anyone else.

You haven't offended anyone. We do like well timed ribbings here.

You're outside my league, but I understand the principle. I don't know how you solve that.

We are all here to learn.

I agree that it looks like it should clip back in. But I haven't been able to find any images online of it in situ. There must be some, but my searching skills are not up to the task.

Is it, I was going to say Mark 1 or Mark 2 then realised we're talking about a Pug...

I'd also be surprised if I'm the first 307 owner who's encountered the lever coming away from the side wall. I can't remembere exactly when the 307 was introduced, but it was in the early 2000s, I think. In 20+ years, am I the only person to have encountered this problem? Am I the only person who has tried to fix the problem themself?

Unlikely!

And there are no videos online with guides to repair? I know I'm unique, but this is ridiculous! A 70ish year old back isn't ideal for getting down into that space and twisting to be in a good position for re-inserting (or whatever else is required) the lever into the 'holder'.

I know that feeling and I'm in my late 50's. I keep saying to everyone it's all downhill at 40.

Is that the really high, arched, and well-lit at night bridge near Bristol that crosses a river into Wales?

I don't know the bridge you're talking about, sorry.

Please don't joke about that stuff. It is too close to home for some people.

I wasn't joking. I'm in a bad way at the moment (but that wouldn't be the way I'd go) so helping others is a good way of distracting my 'overloaded' head.
I'm already in the system and sought help some weeks ago before anyone gets too concerned. Apologies if my dark sense of humour causes pain. Even with what I am going through, I shouldn't make comments that are seemingly jokey when they are not.

Here's the bridge. It's beautiful and was based on an earlier design by Isambard Kingdom Brunel.

[ozfrog]

Yes. I can. I guess so. It looks identical.

Try using an index finger and thumb to act as fulcrum whilst 'pulling' lever with other hand and see if that works.

I’ve been trying that but I don’t think I can get enough leverage. I think that’s what the problem is.

Success!

Bonnet release lever reinstalled

I'm sure that I was correct about why I hadn't been able to do it previously - not enough leverage. Because today's success was made possible with the help of

One medium length reinforced screwdriver

Now, back to those other faults!

[Rhothgar]

That's fantastic news.

Makes you wonder why it came out in the first place. If it feels REALLY stiff when actuating, it might be an idea to try and get some lube into the cable and drawn up by capillary action.

[MattBLancs]

That's fantastic news.

Makes you wonder why it came out in the first place. If it feels REALLY stiff when actuating, it might be an idea to try and get some lube into the cable and drawn up by capillary action.

Yes, agreed - especially at the bonnet end which has a hard life! Likewise the catch itself too.

Makes me chuckle Ozfrog, given your location (other side of the world!) I've got matching green screwdriver(s) to your pictured item!

[ozfrog]

Makes me chuckle Ozfrog, given your location (other side of the world!) I've got matching green screwdriver(s) to your pictured item!

Matt, I'd love to know where I can purchase the rest of the set. That one screwdriver came in a tray of odd tools that I picked up at a garage sale - is that a thing in the U.K.? - for $2:00, about 10 years ago. It's been such a handy screwdriver with that reinforcement.

[ozfrog]

That's fantastic news.

Makes you wonder why it came out in the first place. If it feels REALLY stiff when actuating, it might be an idea to try and get some lube into the cable and drawn up by capillary action.

Thanks. I really appreciate that. Little successes mean a lot some days.

Ever since I purchased the car, I think, in late 2014, the handle hasn't felt 'right'. I always felt like it was going to break, but I didn't know what was going to break. I wasn't in the least surprised last week. I just had to figure out what had 'broken', and then how I was going to fix it.

I contacted a dealership yesterday afternoon and explained the problem to the service manager. He said that I'd need the parts department to send me the exploded view of the cable handle. I thought that was a sensible idea. What I received was a full breakdown of the cable from the bonnet latch to the handle, but not including the handle. They also sent me the removal and refitting instructions for the cable. In other words, nothing useful to me!

In the end, I went back to what you suggested, and what I had initially thought. Pushing down on the top end of the lever, but using the screwdriver to get the extra leverage.

Thanks again for your help, Roger.

[MattBLancs]

Makes me chuckle Ozfrog, given your location (other side of the world!) I've got matching green screwdriver(s) to your pictured item!

Matt, I'd love to know where I can purchase the rest of the set. That one screwdriver came in a tray of odd tools that I picked up at a garage sale - is that a thing in the U.K.? - for $2:00, about 10 years ago. It's been such a handy screwdriver with that reinforcement.

Like this:

Image from:
Clarke Cht121 7 Piece Mixed Screwdriver Set | Power Tools Direct https://share.google/QUFZrIOdpm8Ngu9ts

I'm sure mine came from Screwfix (a hardware and tool supplier national chain in UK) but I can't find them listed there now.

Above mentions brand as Clarke, which is often stocked by Machine Mart (another national chain tool and power tool supplier) but they don't seem to list them either.

EDIT here they are, Google failed me first time around! https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht121- ... 1017f125c3