Relay 2.2 temp gauge too hot non starting post rebuild

[Ben0011]

Hello! Thought Id give a shout on here see if any one has had similar expereince or and new good ideas!

Vehicle:
Citroen Relay
2012
2.2 D 130 BHP
Manual
With AC
190k+
Autel Diag IM508s

Issue:
When I turn the ignition on the temp gauge goes up to max, flags up radiator fluid too high stop engine, with the little red light on. At this point I havent even cranked the engine over! When I do crank the engine over it just spins over with no sounds to sugest its trying to start. The Enging warning light and Coil light are both iluminated at all times and are preiodicaly flickering/flashing. What I mean by this is it is not a clear steady constant flash it will be on for a while then quickly flash/flicker for a second then on again.

Background story!:
So at the End of June the clutch went, recoved vehicle back home and decided to fully inspect the engine and do the timing chain and oil pump as preventative while doing the clutch. Few weeks passed, engine pulled out investigated found slight play in turbo spindle light damage to vanes, i suspected posible issue with fuel pump too as had dirty fuel filteres every 10K change and hesitation at 2k rpm. SO, I decided sod it full rebuild! engine then stripped cleaned block and head skimmed, broken glowplug (bust during strip down) removed, bores honned, timing chain/tensioner/sprockets replaced, injectors and fuel pump sent off for test (found to be almost dead) new fuel pump and injectors installed, Turbo reconditioned, oil pump replaced, clutch replaced, glow plugs replaced, turbo oil feed/return replaced, oil cooler replaced. Alot of this was preventative/preemptive while engine was apart.

Electrics reconnted (battery recharged as discoved charger been turned off by mistake while in storage!), cranked to bleed fuel system as per injector manurfacure instructions. Diag scanned system as coming up with coolant temp as mentioned above. Found fault code U0246 no imob' code to bsi from ecm and no ecm com with abs or bsi. Rechecked connections to ECM looked at loom found CAN wires running from ECM to ABS had been rubbing on the ECM and worn through one wire 2/3 the way. Repaired this wire, visualy checked other wires, look ok. Rescanned cleared ECM com faults, rechecked no fault codes and coms with ECM good! Coded new injectors in.

Diag:
Ignition on, temp on dash says too coolant too hot stop engine, with red light. Cranked engine with no fault coded in any system and new injectors coded engine spins over but no signs of trying to start.
Following checks carried out:
Coolant sensor resistance check - ok
continuity check both wires from ECM to coolant sensor - OK
Checked resistance of sensor through wiring loom (sensor connected tested at ecm pins) - ok
chucked new coolant sensor in for good measure (also checked)
Used Diag scanner to read Live Data from ECM to check coolant temp read in ECM, reading around 20 degrees which was correct for what it was (checked with laser temp probe)
Checked coolant temp with diag scanner in instrument cluster live data, states coolant temp is 130 degree
"quick" look over loom nothing obvious


Summary:
Engine Rebuilt- fuel system bled - CAN wire from ECM to ABS Repaired now ok - codes all clear - ignition on dash says coolant temp too high stop engine and engine & glow plug light on/flicker, crank engine - spins over well (250 rpm) but no firing sounds, wiring from ECM to Coolant temp checked - ok, coolant temp reading at ECM via diag scanner accurate(20 degree), coolant temp at instrument cluster though diag scanner 130 degrees, BSI rest procedure (key out battery off etc) done no change, double check connections of loom that have been disconected at fans and engine.

Next idea was look through loom throughly, make sacrifice to gods, hope i dont need a new BSI!

Hope you enjoyed the reading! I appreciate you folks looking and really appreciate it if any one has any further knowledge/ experience or prompts!

[TurboT_V2]

Hi,
I have the same issue, but only since changing the starter motor!
Have since had new injectors for different issue.
Engine will still not start, but only when cold (same 'engine coolant too hot' message still appears occasionally).
Have you sorted yours?
Mine will start when cold but only using easystart. About 3 seconds straight into airbox (have fitted tyre valve stem on top of air box to make it easier)
Once engine is warm it starts first time every time. I have just done 1400 miles in France over 3 weeks, it randomly has a check engine light, but with an OBD reader and car scanner app my missus resets it whilst limping along!
Fine when hot but still won't start when cold.
Anybody got any ideas?

[RallycrossRay]

Did you get to the bottom of the starting problem since fitting the starter motor?
I fitted a new starter yesterday because the old one was a very slow but it always fired up ok but it now spins over faster but will not fire up most of the time ,also comes up with rad fluid too hot
I am going to try a separate supply to the solenoid later today in case the new Lucas starter is sucking too much power .Did you try this?
Ray