Hi all, after 100,000+km of super-reliable running (adding to the 190,000 already on the car!) my trusty 308 has developed a fairly comprehensive power loss. It starts instantly...but won't rev past 1500, 'lots' of grey smoke . To be fair, I had been ignoring an air mixer fault (always too closed, disintegrated actuator arm) so I had noticed more brown smoke out the back when enjoying fast acceleration.
Diagbox tells me that the DPF is 92% blocked. after several attempts to launch it up our steep drive I did manage to get it to run almost normally..no smoke, and had some turbo boost. It did leave behind several blobs of heavy sooty patches on the drive. My thinking is: running too rich for too long has clogged the DPF to the point of strangulation and the engine can't breathe. Has anyone ever seen a DPF get that blocked?
One other interesting point - diagbox reports the fuel temperature as 200 deg C, even when cold (winter here). So, if that sensor is duff, maybe it's been overfuelling to compensate?
I thought I might remove the DPF, soak in cleaning fluid/compressed air blast. Any ideas welcome! Engine is the RHH/160hp version. Thanks
308 2.0HDi power loss...DPF?
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LedZep
- Donor 2024
- Posts: 121
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- x 30
Re: 308 2.0HDi power loss...DPF?
Any codes in diagbox? You have to check the fuel filter and circuit also.The dpf has to be cleaned professionally or if you diy then you have to use a good cleaning fluid like in video.
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jcmnz
- Posts: 13
- Joined: 02 Aug 2022, 04:00
Re: 308 2.0HDi power loss...DPF?
Hi, Update: Cleaning the DPF had no effect whatsoever. Every now and then I try and get this car running, but it's been sitting 6 months. My son's 308 has the same engine, so tonight I did a comparative diagbox scan to look for differences. My car fires instantly but sits at a rough idle and plumes out grey smoke.
The biggest difference is the air circuit:
The fuel circuit is trying to inject 22mg/impulse on mine, but only 5.6 on the good one...hence the grey clouds I'm guessing. Injector times are ~1.75ms on mine, 1.25 on the good one.
Rail pressures fine (measured vs. ref) on both vehicles at 315bar.
Listening to the engine - there's certainly a hissing/restriction sound at the air mixer at the front, this is relieved when I manually actuate the control rod (which isn't broken anymore).
I can't understand why the measured airflow is high, but the measured turbo pressure is half what it should be. Maybe the mixer position is the real tell on this? As fun as riding an escooter is in the rain...I really need to fix this. I've just replaced daughter's 1.2 Puretech belt and also another daughter's 1.6 Prince engine timing chain so I'm back into this one with a clear garage. Both those were actually quite pleasant jobs, just a bit disconcerting that the crank and cam sprockets are all unkeyed and rely on friction...scary.
I'm beginning to suspect one or both of the vacuum control solenoids that sit over the back of the engine are defective or blocked. A couple of years back one of them had bad contacts due to constant water dripping from that flimsy carboard/fabric scuttle thing. Thanks for any suggestions or wisdom
The biggest difference is the air circuit:
| Parameter | Good 308 | Bad 308 |
| Measured air flow | 285mg/impulse | 467mg/impulse |
| Air flow setting | 244 mg/impulse | 212 mg/impulse |
| Turbo pres ref | 1010mbar | 1219mbar |
| Meas turbo pres | 1002mbar | 500mbar(!!!) |
| Mixer pos ref | 90% | 0% (!?!) |
| Open cyc air mixer valve | 55% | 0% |
Rail pressures fine (measured vs. ref) on both vehicles at 315bar.
Listening to the engine - there's certainly a hissing/restriction sound at the air mixer at the front, this is relieved when I manually actuate the control rod (which isn't broken anymore).
I can't understand why the measured airflow is high, but the measured turbo pressure is half what it should be. Maybe the mixer position is the real tell on this? As fun as riding an escooter is in the rain...I really need to fix this. I've just replaced daughter's 1.2 Puretech belt and also another daughter's 1.6 Prince engine timing chain so I'm back into this one with a clear garage. Both those were actually quite pleasant jobs, just a bit disconcerting that the crank and cam sprockets are all unkeyed and rely on friction...scary.
I'm beginning to suspect one or both of the vacuum control solenoids that sit over the back of the engine are defective or blocked. A couple of years back one of them had bad contacts due to constant water dripping from that flimsy carboard/fabric scuttle thing. Thanks for any suggestions or wisdom
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Paul-R
- Moderating Team
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Re: 308 2.0HDi power loss...DPF?
After you'd cleaned the DPF did you use your Diagbox to tell the car that it had a new one fitted? I think that there are two areas that have to be reset.
Also, you don't l mention anything about the Eolys level? Has that been checked using Diagbox?
Also, you don't l mention anything about the Eolys level? Has that been checked using Diagbox?
As I get older I think a lot about the hereafter - I go into a room and then wonder what I'm here after.
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
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jcmnz
- Posts: 13
- Joined: 02 Aug 2022, 04:00
Re: 308 2.0HDi power loss...DPF?
Hmmm, I can't remember! I'll give that a try in a couple of days. The Eolys was replaced a couple of years ago - and I used Diagbox to tell the ECU it had been done. Thanks