C5 V6 ES9A Camshaft Position Unknown

[Longstart]

Yesterday I bought one solenoid. Not from aliexpress, but from poland supplier. France-auto.pl for approx. 90€. One of the solenoid is leaking anyway. So i will try if this will help or not. I will measure voltage on batery, if altenator supplies enough voltage. I read an article, that in rare situation bad alternator can cause voltage fluctuation and bad performance of Halls sensors...
If this not helps, then I need to find some service garage, which can check oscilation graf of cams and crank shaft...

[Longstart]

So, I was checking in google today. The poland company has just a fancy name France-auto (frantis) but they are probably only broker. The part looks exactly same as from china. So I am going just test it and return back to them...
And I was googling and original OEM is not availavle anymore (1920.HE). So, if solenoids are dead, I need to replace them by Chinesse one

[wurlycorner]

That's very unfortunate.
I had a look around myself to see if I could find a better option (including looking up via the Renault part numbers etc.) but unfortunately same result as you.
Hope the one you've ordered works ok.

[Longstart]

Hello.
I tried the solenoid today.
Situation is the same.
Still P1335.
Now I am going to call some garage to check the camshafts positions with osciloskope tool.
I want to be sure that timing is good and end ring on camshafts didnt slip. (But i dont think so).
Can they tell me with osciloskope, that phasers need to be replaced?
And also they need to check the smell from engine.
It looks like my ES9A is going to give me a hard time... V6 petrol in P406 was much much simplier and difference was not even 20 HP...

[Longstart]

So I'm sending an update.

I had a moment today and I looked at the cables to the crankshaft sensor. Someone wrote on the FR forum that the cable was fried to the exhaust and it gave him the same error. I think the cable is fine. I measured the resistance to the socket and the wires are not interrupted. I looked at the flywheel with an endoscope and it is clean.

I compared the photos of the cams again with the photos from the endoscope and they are in the correct position.

But I have a new clue.

I drove to a place a few km where I was calm, even though I didn't do it on the estate. The engine had just run 90, so the oil could have been about 70-80. However, I drained most of the oil on the intake cam and the smell came from the cam area, which I can smell in the car. That's how it immediately occurred to me that it was exhaust fumes.

If it's really exhaust fumes, then the only possibility is really bad intake cam timing or am I wrong?

If there are adjusters in the engine, can it manifest itself like this?

I thought that the ECU automatically shuts off the VVT...

Could it be that the VVT ​​is working, but the cams are just timing it completely wrong?

AI writes that the symptoms are due to the adjusters.

When cold, the oil is thicker and the adjuster works within the range.

As it warms up, the oil is thinner and thinner until it starts to leak through the leaks. Instead of locking, the ECU tries to correct the cam position, but with the leaking oil, it fails.

So I'll try to have the wheels reconditioned here:

https://mehenker.com/en/regeneration-of ... a-xfv.html

I think it's better than China. The main gear will remain OEM original.

And if this doesn't help, then only the scrapyard...

[wurlycorner]

I don't understand how anything to do with Cam timing could cause a smell of exhaust fumes within the cam cover. That would be more a fault of the PCV system I'd have thought - not breathing crank pressure back into the intake?

[Longstart]

AI is explaining, that bad timing of camshaft makes valves overlapping. Then hot gas is pressed into the intake manifold and the pressure is so high, that some gas leakes around the valve gasket to camshaft chamber.
AI saying the valve gasket is designed to keep oil in camshaft chamber but not designed to prevent the gas go in.... It seems also little bit strange to me, but with error code P1335 it is only thing what it could be. I checked / changed everything connected to camshaft position and dephasers are the last option.

Does ES9A PCV valve by the way? I found some discussion and ES9J4S doesnt have...

I would try everything before the expensive dephasers

[wurlycorner]

Seems to be a very definitive answer to the PCV question, here.

https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index ... pe.101664/

[Longstart]

hello,
I am replacing camshaft dephasors and I would like to ask, what is torque I should use for hollow screws? I read 45Nm but i found only different car. I dont want to destroy them considering the hole inside...

[Longstart]

Hello,

So I replaced dephasors reworked by Mehenker.They did a good job I think.
Also they marked one out of two solenoids like NOK. Which is strange as I checked them, but they are profesionals, so i belive them. So. Depahsers changed, 1 solenoid also changed for some chinesse brand, but OEM not available.
I ran the car yesterday and here is conclusion.
Rattling stopped - this was caused by dephasors on camshaft.
Engine has I would say smoother performance.
But the error code P1335 is still there.

So really last thinks which it could be is... Bad oil pressure in one of the solenoid...
Or some shortcut in ECU maybe?

Anyway. I think I will run the car how it is now even with error code. I really dont know, how I should proceed, I think I already did all the things which mechanic could do...

Last think that I will try to join facebook group "ES9A" engine and I hope that somebody had a similar problem.

Peugeots with their electric wiring and sensors are really nighmare when something is damaged...
Just a blackhole for wallet...

[wurlycorner]

Glad to read you’ve made progress so that at least it drives ok.
Do let us know how much further you get with it, please.

[Ramador]

Longstart, did you manage to fix the P1335 error code?
I have the same error, but the engine runs rough, like it's running on 5 cylinders. Immediately after starting, the radiator fans turn on and then turn off after a while. I haven't taken anything apart yet, so I'm not sure whether to check the timing belt or the camshafts first.
Regards.