Change DPF yourself

[perfidus]

Hi all,
I'm on the way to change my DPF (or FAP) that I knew it was cracked when I bought the van last year (signs of cut and welding on top). I found a good one OEM (Sevel) and next week is programmed for intervention.
The problem is I don't know for sure if the FAP was deleted from the software or not.
The differential pressure is almost zero obvious but with high revs sometimes it shows a few hpa. Also in the ECM it was a DTC code P242F 97 - Particle Filter detected worn, there are also informations about Soot and additive deposited in the particle filter, which suggested me that maybe it was not deleted. With the aid of my Lexia Tool and Diagbox, I have managed to succesfully reset the error code with the DPF exchange procedure.

Do you have any idea if those DPF "adjusments" aka. deletions in software affects these readings or they are just removing the signalling part of DTC codes?
If it was tampered, the ECM will probably not request regenerations then I will end with a clogged DPF.
The question is should I first check the software and assure to be original -if there is a WAY to see it properly, or should I change the DPF first and then go on the road and watch the numbers in ECU for regeneration requests?

EDIT: Will do the Eolys refill and reset as well, of course.

[Rp0thejester]

Are you sure you need to replace the DPF? If it's been cut and welded it sounds like someone has gutted it/ drilled through it and then there's nothing to block. As for software nothing should of been touched. It will continue to act as if nothing happened. Most cases people blank off the EGR valve. It is illegal to mess with emissions on purpose, I'm sure you didn't do it so I'd leave as is unless a problem occurs.

[shtu]

If you're getting no backpressure at all, does sound rather like someone has broken out the core. there's some backpressure numbers in my earlier threads. It might be worth taking it out and having a look before doing anything else.

There's nothing leaps out in those numbers as unusual. Somewhere there is a figure for Km travlled since last regen.

If someone HAS gutted the DPF, they may also have removed the DPF from the list of equipment fitted to the vehicle, so if you replace the DPF you might need to add it back in. iirc it's done via the BSI config.

[perfidus]

For clarification: it is only my will to change the DPF, maybe for a large group of people seems illogical given the "global trend", but I'm determined to bring back the EURO6 emissions controls to the factory state and drive without leaving clouds of soot behind on the ramps.

The DPF is still into configuration i guess because I saw different numbers for soot grams and additive inside DPF and I could reset those numbers to zero with Diagbox. If the differential pressure will start to rise with the new filter, and alsoo soot estimates, I guess I'll soon notice the regenerations.
Something was done to the ECU though, because there was no MIL light or message even if P242F 97 - Particle Filter detected worn DTC was set permanently.

The additive for regeneration (Eolys) is still getting in the tank periodically because I saw the amount number dropping in Diagbox after a refueling and in First additive status it says Action Terminated.
But I never saw in tests the temperature of the exhaust going above 200 degrees, clearly no regeneration was requested because of zero differential pressure.

[Gibbo2286]

This popped up today, it's an advert but might be useful.
https://www.forteuk.co.uk/news/low-pres ... es-adblue/

[perfidus]

This DW10FU engine has no Low EGR. But the crystallization and deposits are a real issue.

Edit: I see in the image that SCR is pictured after the DPF . I guess it is specific to the Low pressure EGR configuration, in my engine they are reversed, SCR is in front of DPF.

[perfidus]

Update:
The "new" OEM DFP was installed yesterday but not without pain, I was forced to change the NOx sensor too because it was seized and the mechanic didn't find a solution to get it out in one piece.
Now I got no more smoke on the pipe and a normal DPF pressure (6-10 mbar at idle and 60 mbar at 2500 rpm). The temperature at catalyst level is now oscilating between 200 and 330 degrees in normal driving. I will further monitor the soot grams and regeneration authorisations to see if the software is still ok.
By the way, the DPF that was suspected gutted was in fact a completely empty pipe - it was nicely cut open on the back and welded after the "surgery".
The garage said that the software must certainly have been modified because with an empty pipe and zero mbar backpressure, an error should pop up (filter efficiency or something).

[Rp0thejester]

Makes you wonder if the DPF really lowers the emissions. How did it pass an MOT with no DPF?

[perfidus]

@Rp0thejester yes it really lowers the emissions - at least the black smoke is staying put and will be burnt on the highway outside the city.
The tests can be faked in these parts of the Europe that's why romanians are "so good at everything" - e.g. cutting corners. The regulations regarding diesels are the same everywhere for the manufacturers but checking them in the field at RAR (equivalent of MOT) is very difficult especially with Euro 6. Afak only opacity and the oxygen is checked , not NoX. You will see a lot of EGR and DPF "fixes" on the roads around here with no problems at MOT.
I don't consider this a good thing at all, it's a nasty and selfish approach. That's why I try to fix it on my van. And it was not cheap until now (new EGR + second hand DPF + new NoX sensor = 1000 euro)

[perfidus]

OK so back to the topic with new developments. After replacing DPF of course it starts to build differential pressure, up to 30 mbar now when idle and not very hot.
It seems obvious that the ECU doesn't care and do not start regenerations when driving at high revs constantly. So yesterday I took it to the local Citro dealer to restore the software to the ECM, in order to have regens come back.
No luck with the dealer unfortunately. They cannot establish communications when in "telechargement" section of the diag tool. Some strange errors and then the process stopped. Their thought on that it could be a bad firmware tweaking for the DPF and AdBlue that causes the dowloading to fail in connection to Stellantis servers.
I managed though to find a guy that finally replaced the software with the original one - with the same release number of what i had installed on my ECU.

So I'm back with all deNOx and DPF stuff in place in the ECM, ready for anything...

The guy instruct me to reset the AdBlue system and to tell the car it has a new DPF, so I reset those.
First regen started almost in an instant, but failed with error P2463 97 Particle filter Detected overloaded and P24A4 97.
Then it comes the AdBlue error P20E8 21 Pressure of the urea fluid.

Manage to reset all and tried a forced regen, it started but ended after 4 or 5 minutes with engine cut and errors back in place. The termperature after the catalytic converter rise in the process to about 530 degrees so after the engine cuts himself during the regen, I was unable to start it again until it cools a litle.
So It can be two explanations for the regeneration not working now:
- too much DPF pressure from the accumulated clogging after the DPF replacement until software restored (no more than 70Km done, plus maybe two three rounds with engine at idle for 15-30 minutes).
- EOLYS tank possibly empty but with a previous reset (it shows 1,8 liters on the Diagbox)- that I will check tomorrow.

Other tests done till now: Fuel Additive Pump Test (passed but no pump ticking) and Fuel Additive Flow Test (passed but no sign of Eolys on the pipe after the test)

[shtu]

What mBar pressure are you seeing at idle, and at around 3000rpm? That will tell you if the filter is clogged or not. (look at my older posts, I know there are example numbers in there)

I'd be tempted to see if it will regen without being forced.

The Eolys pump makes a noticeable (but quiet) ticking when testing. The pump flow test should deliver about 20ml of fluid and also be ticking during the test. You can source the pump module seperately from the tank and circuit board, but it might be better to source a complete tank assembly.

eg,
pump only https://www.neobrothers.co.uk/car-parts ... -tank-pump
complete tank https://www.neobrothers.co.uk/car-parts ... 9672419980

NOTE - these are examples, not the specific parts for your car.

[perfidus]

Thanks shtu,
The DPF seems too clogged to regen itself. I have 30-35 mbar at idle, 160-180 at 2200 rpm, the forced regen revs, and going to 300 mbar at 3000.
This morning I dsimantle the Eolys pump, was completely stuck. The solenoid pump itself was rusty, water was there. Soak it in WD40 and shock it with a hammer from both sides and now it's ticking but for the flow test there was something more like 5 ml. Might have to get another one.
It looks like this:

In my case there is no board, the pump is controlled directly from the ECU (on the connector there is ignition 12V and command to ground).
Here's the compatible part with the Citroen Relay II:
https://www.neobrothers.co.uk/car-parts ... 9809653280

The thing is I don't know why the procedure for replacing the tank or the pipe does not start, it saids something like First additive not started.
After refilling with 2 liters of FAP additive - CERINE solution (bought from franceauto.pl), I reset the additive volume with the filling procedure in Diagbox.
The quantity is set to 2,6 liters, you can't edit this.
But i don't know if the additive is going to be in the tank soon, at this stage. Maybe if I try to reach the other end of the pipe to see if it's there already.

So back to the question
The issue remains = blocked DPF, that is the error when the engine wants to start the regeneration on its own, and it wants to start it as soon as possible, no more than 3-4 miles with 50Km/h in 5 gear...
Verry soon the check engine and DPF regen lights goes ON, engine goes to limp mode, limits revs to about 2300-2400 rpm.

[perfidus]

I wonder if the short run of the DFP without regeneration (under 70Km but short trips through the city and an average of one hour idle) shows some sort of problems to the "new DPF" or some issues to the injection system of the engine.

[perfidus]

Update: Eolys pump and tank replaced last week, not a new one but in perfect order (no rust, no leaks) and clearly a better flow when testing (about 2-3 ml in just 10 seconds of pumping).
Same thing, if anyone knows why the procedure for replacing the additive tank or the pipes does not start, it saids something like First additive not started. It is supposed to start (or end) something else first?

[shtu]

OK, Here's my thoughts, but no idea if it will actually work.

Forget the forced regen approach. Take it off and clean it the hard way. Forced regens do not get rid of the ash and cerine buildup, so it's ultimately the way to go if all else fails.

Once you've done that, go through the procedure to tell the car it has a new DPF, and see if that works as expected, the estimated lifetime resets, etc.

If it does, move on to the process for the refill\new EOLYS tank.