Acetone as carb cleaner - thoughts?

[mickthemaverick]

IPA and/or Brake Cleaner for me...

I read somewhere "Don't use Brake Cleaner" I'll try and dig it out............

[mickthemaverick]

Yes you can read it all at: https://carsbibles.com/can-you-use-brak ... arburetor/

here's the salient paragraph:

Potential Risks of Using Brake Cleaner on Carburetors

While brake cleaner might seem like a convenient solution, its use on carburetors carries several potential risks:

1) Damage to Rubber and Plastic Components: The strong solvents in brake cleaner can attack and degrade rubber and plastic parts, leading to leaks, cracks, or warping.
2) Corrosion of Metal Parts: Some brake cleaners contain acidic ingredients that can corrode delicate metal components within the carburetor.
3) Residue Buildup: Although brake cleaner evaporates quickly, it can leave behind a residue that can attract dirt and debris, potentially causing further clogging.
4) Fire Hazard: Brake cleaner is highly flammable, and its use near an open flame or spark can be dangerous.

[CitroJim]

I've never had an issue using clutch and brake cleaner on carbs...

It's my go-to for a lot of cleaning jobs as it's one solvent I can tolerate reasonably well.

Interesting to see it's not recommended.

[mickthemaverick]

I imagine the risks are mainly for those who may not rinse the cleaner off properly before reassembly, something I'm sure you're not guilty of Jim!!

[CitroJim]

I imagine the risks are mainly for those who may not rinse the cleaner off properly before reassembly, something I'm sure you're not guilty of Jim!!

That was exactly what I was just thinking Mick. I always either blow-dry or wipe with clean lint-free absorbent material and rinse with IPA.

I'm aware some brake cleaners can leave a fine bloom when it evaporates. An IPA rinse and/or a wipe sees it off.

One thing I do note is that if all muck it dissolves is not fully removed when blow-drying or wiping whilst still dissolved in wet solvent it will harden into something infinitely more difficult to remove and go almost rock-like.

I could see this being an issue in carbs if used carelessly.

So, it does need careful use and an understanding of its limitation and risks. It's not a 'spray with gay abandon and wait for instant magic to happen' sort of product.

It's great for getting oil stains out of carpets too

[moizeau]

Now I know how to do it, I could do it in an hour, easily. That's from riding a complete running bike up the drive, to riding it off again.

Took me 20 mins to remove the seat, tank, AIRBOX and carbs, replace the carb heater pipes and put it back together again the other week.

Power screwdriver helps.

That'll help. Neither the Z1000ST or the Zeph's airbox can be removed without removing the carbs first. The Z1000 has about 15mm of rearwards movement, the Zeph about 5/10mm. What does help is new airbox to carb and carb to cylinder head rubbers along witha bit of vaseline. Even then there is a lot of colourful language as well as very colourful nuckles and fingers. Also your hour doesn't include stripping each carb down to the very last part and cleaning.

[Michel]

The carbs won't come off the ZZR-1100 without removing the airbox. It's 8 or 9 10mm bolts with quite long threads for the lid. Once that's off, there's three bolts that hold the airbox to the carbs which can only be reached by people with tiny deformed hands and magic 8mm bendy ratchet spanners.

Then 4 screws around the carb/inlet tracts to split the carbs from the engine. I'm lazy so I put a towel over the engine and simply flip the carbs upside down and work on them there as it's a major hassle to redo all the cables afterwards.

Might sell it anyway shortly. Not enjoying it at all. Not ridden it for at least two weeks.