renault t1000 1647cc

ray lewis · Unread post by **ray lewis** » 19 Sep 2005, 14:28

Hi anybody know how easy it is to do a head gasket change on these engines, any tips?
Ray

dotcommer · Unread post by **dotcommer** » 20 Sep 2005, 17:26

I assume this is a mid 1980's engine.
Haynes manual for Renault 18 covers these engines.
I changed one a few years ago with no problems.
Remember this engine has wet cylinder liners. Having removed the head bolts, break the gasket seal by tapping the head horizontally so that it swivels about a locating lug. If you lift the head before the seal is broken, you risk lifting the cylinder liners with it, thus breaking their water seals. (Not the end of the world, but an unnecessary extra job)

dotcommer · Unread post by **dotcommer** » 21 Sep 2005, 05:11

On second thoughts, it would be almost the end of the world.It would mean having to take the pistons out (sump off & big ends undone), pulling the liners out and refitting with new seals.
Tightening sequence
8 4 1 5 9
front Flywheel
7 3 2 6 10
When taking the head off, loosen bolt1 but leave it in place to stop the head lifting until the seal is broken. The locating dowel is around this bolt.
Once the head is off, do not turn the engine (moving the pistons may dislodge the liners) unless you have clamped the liners in position.

ray lewis · Unread post by **ray lewis** » 21 Sep 2005, 13:21

Thanks for the advice, will start attacking the thing this weekend if I can get all the parts.
Ray

ray lewis · Unread post by **ray lewis** » 21 Sep 2005, 16:19

Hi again, do i need these special alinement studs to put the head back on or can you get around it using the head bolts to line the gasket up?
Ray

dotcommer · Unread post by **dotcommer** » 22 Sep 2005, 04:13

Hi, I assume you have some info to know about the alignment studs.I used 4 rigid plastic tubes (7in long & about 8mm dia.)screwed into the corner head bolts' holes in the block. I just screwed them in about 3-4mm (letting the thread in the block tap them), enough to keep them vertical. I expect wooden dowelling would work. Screw them in and out a few times and clean up any bits from the holes. Do a dry run without the gasket in place to make sure they guide the cylinder head into position and can be unscrewed when it's down. (If the van body gets in the way, you may have to use holes other then the rear corners.)If it works, screw them in again, position the gasket over them, then let them guide the head down. I think I used a short length of 15mm copper pipe for the bigger hole on the side.
You can't use the head bolts because the head has to come down over them.

ray lewis · Unread post by **ray lewis** » 22 Sep 2005, 12:57

Hi,
I have access to a lathe so may well make up some studs myself. Just as a matter of interest, why cant the gasket be put onto the head first using the bolts to line it up, you may have to use a bit of grease or something to stop the gasket dropping off the head while you drop it onto the block?
Ray

dotcommer · Unread post by **dotcommer** » 23 Sep 2005, 03:25

I'm just going by what the Haynes manual says ----Renault say that if you move the gasket once it has contacted the block, you have to scrap it and start again with a new gasket. There is also a rubber seal around the tappet chamber to position and link into the gasket. Cylinder heads are quite heavy, especially at full stretch reaching over the radiator etc., so anything that can keep the gasket in place and guide the head into position first time is worth it.
Good luck!
PS. Do you know the torques for tightening the head?