Puretech EB2FA HMR Engine rebuild info

[BarryP207]

Hi guys,
First of all thanks to the people who run this forum!
My 2018, 2008 1.2 Allure has a problem? Advice needed please.
I changed the cambelt. Now there is blue smoke coming from the exhaust. Seems worse after pausing at traffic lights??
It was fine before.
Never changed a cambelt before but I think I have messed it up, but not sure if this has damaged the engine.
My engine is slightly different to the ones with instructions and videos that I could find online? My camshaft gears/cogs has the lip around the outside so you have to take them off completely to remove the cambelt???? I think this means it is a bog standard 1.2 puretech? Not the VTI model.
Anyway, I turned the engine two complete revolutions. Inserted the locking pin in the hole underneath to lock the crankshaft (or so I thought!). Then I fitted the cam locking tool on the top, fastened it down, and started to remove the old cambelt. The tensioner was released.
When I came to undo the crankshaft bolt the engine started to turn?? The pin was in, but not all the way home it seems.
So I rocked the crank gently from side to side until the locking pin went fully home.
Fitted the new cambelt kit, but now lots of smoke from the exhaust sometimes? Very strange.
After fitting the kit, i turned the engine over by hand, and checked the tools would locate. I did this twice to make sure.
Then engine started no problem. Ticks over sweetly. Drives good. Engine performed well on a test drive, even a brief trip down the motorway, so I thought a job well done?
Changed the oil and filter, coolant.
A few days later I was stopped in the car park with the engine running and I noticed all the smoke for the first time?
Then, like I say, it seems to be worse when the engine has been running and the car has been stationary.
I think the timing must be slightly out?
What I need is a Diagram please or photograph of where the camshaft gears/cogs should be when the engine locking pin is fitted below? Unlike the VTI there is no EX or IN markings to check the 5 o clock position. So can anybody help please?
If I were rebuilding the engine then on initial assemble/set up what would the position of the camshaft gears be in before if fitted the cambelt for the first time? Any help appreciated. It different to the other EB2 engines, I believe the 3rd Generation engine?

Thanks guys!

Baz.

[ozvtr]

If the locking pins all go in, then the belt alignment is OK. Belt miss alignment wont cause exhaust smoke. Might bend a valve or two...but wont cause smoke.
Symptoms sound like valve stem seals. Difficult to change with the cylinder head on the block. But there are some tricks.

[BarryP207]

Thanks for the reply ozvtr,
There was no smoke from the engine before I changed the cambelt? The thing that worries me is my engine has EB2F on the exhaust manifold. HMR in the vin? Not sure where the A should be if its an EB2FA HMR (Haynes online converted it to that engine from my vin code). But my engine has the vanos/vvt gears that have the lip around the edge? i cant find any info on how these differ from the vvti ones? So, I just turned the engine twice? Locked the cams with the flats uppermost, locked the crank, and changed the bloody thing? Haynes manual states you need to turn the cams by 30 degrees??? But if you do that the bloody locking tool would not fit, so that cant be right?? Going to have another go? If that doesnt work is it a big job to get the head off?? I have seen on a C3 that you have to take the gearbox off to get to two bolts on a plate that drops down from the head??? Thanks, mate.

[ozvtr]

Does the engine run well? If it does the problem won't be the timing.

there is blue smoke coming from the exhaust. Seems worse after pausing at traffic lights??

This is the thing that causes me to think it's the valve stem seals. Classic symptom is puff of blue/white smoke after ideling for a while.
Blue smoke is burning oil. Smells like burning tyres.
Black smoke is over fueling.
I cant see how the timing belt will cause burning oil. Especially if the the engine runs well.
It's very hard to get the timing out far enough to effect the performance and not bend a valve!

[BarryP207]

Thank you ozvtr,
I am just about to redo/check the cambelt again? I think it is worth changing the valve seals my friend.I believe they can be changed without taking the cylinder head off?? Does anybody know which spring compressor tool will be suitable for a puretech 1.2 please?? There is a guy on here who has done it, it's tricky though? But it's worth a try??
Thanks guys!

Baz.

[ozvtr]

I think it is worth changing the valve seals my friend.I believe they can be changed without taking the cylinder head off?? Does anybody know which spring compressor tool will be suitable for a puretech 1.2 please??

You need to make sure that the cylinder you are working on is at Top Dead Center. Or you risk dropping a valve into the cylinder! And you don't want that.
I have used a head compression tester adapter, in the spark plug hole, connected to a compressor, to keep the valves closed.
Being an interference engine you can allow the valves to drop onto the piston crown once you compress the springs and remove the keepers. It would only represent a drop of a few millimeters. Again, the piston must be at TDC.
But you'll need to close the valve to re-install the spring, retainer and keepers. That's what the compressor is for. The air pressure inside the combustion chamber keeps the valve closed.
Some people pack string into the combustion chamber to hold the valves closed. I haven't tried that.
The spring removal tool looks like a small gear puller. You should be able to get it from the usual suspects. This is just an example, they come in all sorts of variations, but are similar to look at.

The biggest problem can be removing and installing the valve stem seals. With the valve stem sticking out of the seal it can be a pain getting the seal off the valve guide and re-installing the new seal! A long socket that fits onto the shoulder (NOT THE SEAL FACE) usually works to re-install the seal. But some seals can be really stuck onto the the valve guide and take a while to remove! You can get a tool that looks like pliers, to remove the seals.
This is just general information, I have not worked on a Puretech, so I don't know of any tips or traps...sorry.

[BarryP207]

Thank you for your time my friend!
I have been thinking?? If the Camshafts are off so you can get to the valves? With this engine is it safe to turn the engine with cambelt off, i don't mean removed completely (though I could do that again if I had to?), just remove the tensioner and pulley, slip it off the cam gears and let it dangle away from the crank drive gear for the cambelt?
I don't have a compressor and I can't afford to buy one so,
If I use a hose from an inflated tyre will that be enough pressure? How quickly does the air leak out roughly??
Or the rope method, you need to be able to turn the engine, first clockwise to find tdc using a probe/rod, then mark the position. Turn the engine over to bdc. Feed a small length of thin tough rope or rubber tube? Turn the engine over slightly to move the piston up with the rope on top, just enough to keep the valve in place? BUT then (it was a BMW I saw the YouTube on) turn the engine backwards enough to remove the rope?? But I have heard turning an engine backwards can crash the pistons and valves????
Or, maybe a small, tough, inflatable balloon or tiny rubber glove or something with a bicycle pump, dropped down and inflated???
Failing that I will need to take the head off!!!
But thank you so much for your help my friend!

Baz.

[BarryP207]

This guy has lots of great info on the puretech 1.2
https://www.nomaallim.com/eb2-engine.html
And there is a nice guy called Ronke on YouTube who has done a rebuild (well piston rings anyway, but you could do the head as well while it's off I suppose?), with the engine still in the car!!!
Cheers guys!

Baz.

[BarryP207]

Hi guys, replaced the valve seals using the rope method. There is a great tool by Neilsen Valve Keeper Remover & Installer Kit CT5756
That tool made it surprisingly easy to remove and reinstall the keepers etc.
Anyway, you need to rotate the Engine to move each cylinder to TDC to compress the rope and change the valve seals.
So, now after putting everything back there is no compression. I have worked out (I think) that two complete revolutions of the Engine at the Flywheel = 1 complete revolution of the Camshafts?
So how can I tell which is the correct revolution of the Engine/Flywheel to insert the locking pin. If this is locked in the correct position then if I reinstall the Camshafts and set them to the locked position before installing the cambelt then all should be correct I think? Is there a way to tell with the spark plugs out and finding which cylinder is at TDC when Engine/Flywheel is in correct position to have the Camshafts reinstalled? A guy has tried to sell me a TDC gauge???? But TDC is easy to find with the spark plugs removed so I do not understand that suggestion?? Any help appreciated guys! Summer is over I need to get it back on the road now! Thanks, Baz

[ozvtr]

I would go back over the flywheel/camshaft(s) alignment procedure. And make sure you are doing it correctly. Unfortunately I cant tell you that information.
Do you have the correct alignment procedure for your engine?
Have you attempted to run the engine? I.E. use the starter? If you have, you may have bent the valves! Or the alignment is just out and a valve is partially open at TDC.
I would hope for the latter you don't want bent valves!

[BarryP207]

It's a strange one? Of course when the bottom flywheel is locked and the cams are locked then you should not rotate the engine! (Or as I have just learnt , keep count of the rotations so that you can lock the flywheel in the correct position, that corresponds with replacing the cams back in their locked position)
No matter which rotation, cylinder 1 is mm, cy 2 is 20mm, and cylinder 3 is 12mm, from TDC.
So, I will try one position and check valve clearances? If that is wrong then surely the next rotation is the correct one? Failing that my friend the cylinder head will need to come off to check the valves. But that would still leave the same predicament I think? All good fun isn't it!!
Thanks,

Baz.

[BarryP207]

Sorry typo, cyl 1 is 17mm, cyl 2 20mm, cyl 3 12mm, from TDC, when flywheel locked on either rotation.

[ozvtr]

The cams should be in the correct position with all three points pinned. You don't need to count revolutions.
However, you can't turn just the cams with the flywheel pinned. You run the risk of a valve contacting the piston crown.
You really only get one shot when installing the cams. You can't turn them if you get it wrong. If the cam is not going in correctly, pull it out and start again.
It may take 2 people to install the cam. One to keep the cam aligned the other to push against the spring tension and install the caps.

[ozvtr]

Sorry typo, cyl 1 is 17mm, cyl 2 20mm, cyl 3 12mm, from TDC, when flywheel locked on either rotation.

I'm honestly not sure about this! Not that familiar with this engine, sorry.
When the flywheel is pinned, typically No. 1 and 4 are at TDC. Another variation is all 4 pistons 1/2 way up the cylinders.
Is cylinder 4 @ TDC, you didn't say?
Which end are you counting the cylinder numbers from? Pulley end or flywheel end?

If you remove all the cams, can you do a leak down? Check out youtube. See if there are any videos on doing a leak down test without a tester.
You can use a compression tester hose and connect it to compressed air. See if air leaks out the exhaust port, the inlet port or into the crank case.
A smoke machine would be better.

[BarryP207]

Thank you my friend,
This is a Peugeot Puretech 1.2 petrol EB2FA HMR. It's a 3 cylinder engine. Cylinders are numbered from the gearbox end (not the cambelt end). Anyway, it seems there are two possible revolutions of the Engine in which you can lock the engine (insert the locking pin fully), but only one position that will match exactly with the cams being reinserted in the locked position? I must have had them in the wrong position last time, I.e. 180 degrees out from correct timing position for Camshafts. Thanks for your help buddy!

Baz.