307cc roof operation

[Expertamateur]

Little by little I have been getting used to the new Pug, my first petrol machine in over 25 years so the difference in torque was noticeable and to be honest this reminds me more of a sports car than a shopping trolley. Now to the question. After a long very wet winter I decided to try out the roof drop down procedure. The guy I bought it from several months ago said it was working fine but I haven't had an opportunity to try it out until a few days ago. At first it didn't seem to want to respond and there was a little beeping noise coming from somewhere. Then I spotted a message on the little display unit on top of the dash. Something about a screen. Then I remembered reading that there is a little roller blind thing in the boot that is supposed to be covering anything in the boot to make sure you don't load it too full. So out I get to pull the screen into place and notice there is a little microswitch that lets the system know when the screen is correct. OK. I get back inside and hit the button. The boot lid creaks slowly into the open position and not a lot else happens. I tried a bit of open and close to try to coax it out of its deep sleep and eventually the top lifted about half way. It was making quite a bit of noise, the pump was running flat out but no movement. I was thinking either it was short of hydraulic fluid or the mechanism was a bit seized from not being used enough. I sat for a while looking for answers in the user manual and tried again. This time it found enough fluid to continue the cycle and the top was fully down and boot lid closed over it. Very neatly stowed. Then panic set in. I figured I should get it back in place before the next shower and leave it there until I can check the fluid level. Thankfully it closed without issue.
Can anyone tell me where the fluid tank is and how to verify the level?
Thanks in advance.

[jamie-n]

The hydraulic pump is in the boot, remove the plastic trim that is just below the boot lock, the pump is on the right, you can see the level marks on it.

[GiveMeABreak]

Shown Here at (1):

[Expertamateur]

Thank you both for your replies. I just had a look to try to check the level but unable to get at the pump. In the boot the "loop" that engages with the latch on the lid, is surrounded by a plastic panel with two torx screws holding it down. I removed the screws but the panel won't come away. At the bottom there is a sort of short roller blind attached by pop rivets and there are no visible fastenings on the roller itself. I thought the plastic cover might be a snap fit once the 2 screws were removed but no matter how hard I pull it won't come away. I have also tried to pry it off with a lever but it refuses to budge. I don't like to push my luck with plastic stuff, specially knowing how hard parts for this car are to find.
So no point in asking what sort of oil I would need to top it up if it is low.

[Expertamateur]

Update: I have been searching other forums and cross reference charts and found that the hydraulic fluid needed has been identified as Aral Vitamol ZH-M. Various brands sell a product formulated to the same characteristics can be identified by "ZHM".

Searching Youtube extensively on the topic of roof maintenance turns up a couple of sketchy disassembly videos that don't really help. The one with the best lighting and focus shows a boot interior quite different to mine, maybe even the wrong model or series. When the rain next stops I will start a major disassembly of the whole area in the hopes of exposing the pump refill point.

[Expertamateur]

Further update:
I managed to remove all the plastic panels to expose masses of wires and hydraulic lines. The pump resides in a cocoon of insulation resting in a hard foam cradle that takes up most of the area behind the rear "bumper" area. There appears there is no separate fluid reservoir anywhere. According to references and Google searches that are for the 207cc version there is a fill plug on the pump itself but I have found no specific info about how to determine the correct fluid level inside the pump. One thing seems certain. Many people faced with top problems are choosing to live with the top permanently up rather than face often incompetent and eye-wateringly expensive dealership repairs. I think I am getting close to that point myself.

[xantia_v6]

This is the fill procedure...

Empty the pump oil via the reservoir filling cap 2 (In the event of replacement ).

Tightening torques
Designation daNm
bolts (1) 0,2
Plug (2) 0,2
Fasteners (Plate ) 0,1
CAUTION : Carry out 3 complete operating cycles of the retractable roof/boot assembly. (I guess you must put some oil in to do this...)
CAUTION : Do not do more than 3 complete cycles (security locking will apply from the 4th cycle).
CAUTION : If an air bubble is present in the hydraulic circuit, operate the opening/closing cycle of the roof to eliminate the bubble.
Change the vehicle into the coupe version. (i.e roof up)
Check the oil level of the hydraulic unit which must be between the min and max marks.
Top up the oil (if necessary).
CAUTION : Use oil index M1 type EQUIVIS XV 32 .

[Expertamateur]

Many thanks for the info. Like all the other diagrams I have found, yours is not exactly like the pump in my 307. The two square shapes are arranged at 90 degrees across the end not inline as in your image. I don't suppose this make any difference because I believe they are only relays or solenoids. I can probably undo one of the screws on top of my pump to identify if it is the filler one. I won't be replacing the pump (at least not yet) so I won't need to drain anything. What I still can't make out is where to find the min and max marks. Your caution about not exceeding three operation cycles is vital information and I appreciate you warning me about it.

I have only one day left before the rain returns so I don't think I will risk trying to do anything clever like retracting the top just yet in case it won't go back up. I have purchased a can of the correct fluid and ready to go during the next dry spell here in soggy Brittany.

[Rozma]

Hi, not the topic question but still gona ask it here cause I don't think that question need to have own topic. I'd like to know if cc's (207 in my case) trunk lid supposed to rise?
Have this question cause I've replaced both tailgate struts and they aren't lifting the trunk but only holding it in position where I lifted it by the hand.

[Lighteater]

I have a 207CC and as far as I know, the answer to your question is No. My struts are starting to fail - sometimes the lid stays open, other times it comes down like a slowish guillotine - but I have to push the boot lid to the full open position in either case.

May I ask where you got the struts from, and how much you paid? I may need to go down that route myself.

[xantia_v6]

The struts should just balance the weight of the lid. It doesn't rise on its own.

[Expertamateur]

The saga continues. There has been a gap in the rubbish weather today and I made a bad decision. I tried to lower the roof. The boot lid rises and then stops. Then nothing. Nothing else happens. Tried the switch up or down, nothing but two messages on the almost invisible dash multi-display.
One saying there is a fault and another saying the boot is stopped, or something along those lines. I didn't need a display to tell me I'm in trouble again. Dark clouds on the horizon so I start to panic. Don't want the boot filling up with rainwater with all that damned wiring and stuff in there so charged about to find something to cover the open boot with before it rains again.

Out comes the owner's manual in the hopes of getting info about how to close the boot "manually". About as useful as a chocolate teapot. It suggests checking the fuse that feeds the pump. On the fuse panel in the glovebox it says there's a 30A fuse in the top slot. Nope. Nothing there. I tried putting one in but nothing changes. The manual also offers is a set of images and cryptic instructions how to close the roof manually once it is already open. Apart from using one or both of the special "keys" that are only accessible if the boot is open, you must get at the pump to open a fill plug (to release system pressure?) in order to manhandle all the various panels into position. To finish up one of the keys is inserted into the hole in the roof lining to set the lock. Mine is stripped so the key wouldn't work even if I needed. In my case the roof remains closed but the boot lid has opened to the first stage and will not open further or close. I can't drive it like this and while in this position it obscures my access to the pump to release pressure.

I am soooo regretting buying this car. After owning it about four months I have only managed to get the roof to open twice. It usually stalls part way and refuses to complete the sequence or doesn't even try. I have discovered a specialist that deals with cabrio models but he is 700km away so getting the car to him is not possible. If I could afford the loss I would hire a recovery man to take it to the nearest scrapper.

I didn't even want a cabrio. It just turned up at an affordable price, presumably because it is RHD. A LHD one would have been 2 or 3 times the price.

[xantia_v6]

Can you disconnect a hose from a bootlid ram to release pressure?

[Expertamateur]

I will have a go at trying that if you think it might do the trick. There should be a hose somewhere that I can get my hands on. I'll wrap plenty of rags around the area to avoid getting a faceful of fluid. If I can get it shut down and secured I will never try to drop the top again. All I need is to get the boot lid to open when I need to carry something (shopping etc.). I assume the boot unlock will still work for that given that it is probably just a solenoid that releases the latch and is then opened manually.

Enjoy your Easter, amigo.

[xantia_v6]

I wish I could help fix it properly, but we have had our 308 CC for about 10 years without any roof failures, so not much relevant experience.

If you do decide to dump the car, I may be interested in it as a project, I am currently living in Burgundy.