207CC roof problem

[Shkreks13]

the car got out of the accident by itself) I still don't understand what happened.

[Shkreks13]

the car got out of the accident by itself) I still don't understand what happened.

[Peter5761]

These are the Micro switch positions, I’d take them one at a time and using a test light make sure they work.

[Peter5761]

I came to mine this morning just to try it and it works as it should.
One thing though. Try removing the Battery then Replace,then ONLY using the Roof retract switch with the windows in the Up Position,Retract the roof, I think trying to retract the Roof with any windows in the Down position confuses the sequence causing a fault.
Worth a try.
BTW. I did replace the micro switch on the Boot next to the Ram behind the Trim panel.

[Themadscotsman]

Thanks Shkreks13 and Peter5761 for your advice

I am beginning to think the the roof goes out of Sync due to low output power from the car battery.

When my roof gliched I had exactly the same fault as Shkreks13 and had to manually close the roof ( I had to disconnect boot mechanism pistons as I could not access the pump to depressurize )

Yesterday I charged up the car battery and performed the BSI reset proceedure and tested the roof and hey presto it worked.

So my advice is if you experience a roof malfunction then make sure the battery is fully charged before proceeding

[Two207]

the trunk lid opens, the roof fits into the trunk and falls into an accident. when I open it back up, the roof rises and the trunk falls onto the roof, I stop there so that they don't collide. I read errors using the launcher. LN sees and responds to all sensors

Good afternoon Shreks13. You read errors for a 207CC roof problem using Launch product? Which model?
Please let us know which scanner model worked. I'm preparing to purchase a scanner.
LN also means Launch?
"The tool responds to all sensors". Do you mean all engine sensors or do you mean it can show us all the roof and boot and window microswitch states?
Best regards from France.

[iow207cc]

Hi,

New to this Forum with a 2012 207cc. Just got it and it came with a roof problem and wonder if anyone can offer advice please?

Roof now opens OK until it docks in boot, then boot lid tries to close but fails to move. If I close the roof it does this fine and boot lid latches closed OK.

i've looked at the panel that has 3 microswitches which is fixed above the lever in the boot. I gather the front of the roof presses on this which should activate the hydraulics to reverse and pull the boot lid closed. I have tried fixing a coin to this lever in case it needs more contact to activate this stage but no luck.

Maybe a broken microswitch or broken wire? Anyone have any checks I can run or is there anyone on the Isle of Wight with diagnostic software?

Thanks.

[Two207]

Good afternoon iow207cc and welcome. There are two 207CC here. Roof systems very reliable yet one failed to open once (now fixed). It was due to an insect trapped in the very front beam latch mechanism that caused a stuck microswitch there and only the first three seconds of action. The switches can look "normal" yet need a bit of action and lubrification. One there wasn't broken inside, just needed it's contact nose to be lubed and moved like this

If a reader of this thread tries a diagnosis with a multimeter; it's possible, just not using "beep"=0 ohms mode. The switches have resistors in series (and a few in parallel) such that a controller knows they're installed and available or if not, can declare a harness failure. If the controller "sees" the resistance it can then act and notice any other new failure to go open circuit as "something didn't move or if it did, the switch isn't working". So I recommend use the smallest Ohms scale. In the video, LM is great yet needs five hands to work and film so thinks to use beep. Rather looking at the ohm reading is necessary.

Well, iow207cc, your car's roof opens all the way yet not causing the boot to close at the end of the movement. Before having a scanner, I could only look around by eye. Along the way I found corrosion had started in one connector in the boot. It wasn't the cause of this car's problem yet needed attention before becoming a fault (see photo at end of post). With battery disconnected I removed the inner black furry lining in the boot that goes full across left to right (on the bulkhead boot side of the mini bench seat). There are two multiway plugs clipped to the steel and a ground wire bolting position (which should have at least one ground wire on it).
The connector concerned (and corroded) is clipped to the bulkhead driver's side (France), passenger side (Isle of Wight) i.e. left when looking into the boot. Black connector with 16 possible signals in a red socket with only ten actually used. I cleaned it and then wonder how damp or water got in there at all (trickle down?). I've bought two sachets for dehumidification which I intend to strap into a poly bag around that connector.

I did also remove the passenger rear bench seats (easy job) which revealed the combined window and roof mechanism control unit (in between the pyrotechnics for the roll arches).
Same procedure; battery disconnected, then looked at the computer's connector. Perfect condition (which is normal for "inside" the car, yet it could get drenched if someone ran along roof down in the rain once upon a time).

My efforts by inspection and cleaning didn't find the defect. So I bought a Scandoc WIFI scanner by Quantex in Germany (which works for the Peugeot 207CC on phone or tablet or PC Linux out through the window) for a modest price and can be enabled for any model of vehicle (for a fee).

Scandoc finds all modules on the white 207CC here (including Bosch MEV 17.4 Engine ECU software 83) and identified the stuck roof switch (precisely the same one as stuck on LM Auto's video) so bravo to Quantex. Scandoc doesn't find the engine ECU on the grey 207CC here (Bosch MEV 17.4.2 Engine ECU software 82) which is a frustration but does find every other element on both CCs.
Another economy scanner is Klavkarr 310 made in France (this time conventional Bluetooth) which has all module diagnosis on a budget (in english), any model of car, but the roof was fixed before I got it.
The Klavkarr sees everything on the Grey CC and almost everything on the White CC (but not it's engine data). Klavkarr responded by email and are looking into it (maybe). Lower cost scanners can work well for a roof defect but seem to have difficulty redressing changes to Engine software done by PSA (I'm not surprised really).

This year I chose to rebuild the grey CC's engine and that needed Adaptions done, so some months later needed full (a free version on used laptop) Peugeot Diagbox . Sorry I'm near Spain, far from you.
That I bought from a diagnostics pro in Paris. He set it up in English on a used Lenovo touch screen laptop; excellent purchase; very fast delivery; worked straight out of the box; no drama.
Not the sort of thing I'd lug around on journies though. So a Klavkarr in the Grey one's glovebox (works) and a Quantex Scandoc in the White one's glovebox (works); Diagbox stays at home.
Don't know how I might help further, yet open to questions, messages. Let's see if I can add a photo . . . . . I'm new here too. . . . .

[iow207cc]

Thanks for the reply Two207,

I'll work through some of your ideas this weekend.

Not sure if I have made a mistake - I carefully unscrewed the Boot Microswitch circuit board (412-0810) so I could look behind it at the microswitches and maybe test them... When I went to put it back I'm not sure if the metal peg from the boot closure mechanism goes inside the plastic lever on the circuit board (to actuate the microswitch) or rests underneath? Here is a stock photo to show the plastic lever I'm on about...



From experience, can you tell me when you screw it back on, where should it fit in relation to the metal peg that actuates it?

Thanks.

[mickthemaverick]

This opinion is not from experience but logical deduction from the design of the plastic lever. I would be pretty sure the metal peg should slot into the 'handle' part of the plastic operating lever.

Suggested location of metal peg

[iow207cc]

That's what I thought too. It was really tricky refitting like that and I was put off as it still didn't work!

I'll run through the other test suggested and then maybe try a replacement boot circuit board...

Any progress and I'll post here in case it helps anyone else.