Car is 1996/P 306 TD with 56,000 miles. At last MOT it needed rear wheel bearing "adjusted". Ever since been slight clunk from the rear which I could never quite figure out.
Had a good look over the car and the rear offside wheel has a bit of play in both 12 and 6 oclock and 3 and 9.
Undid the hub nut (can see it has been staked in twice so must have been the one the garage had a go at).
Replaced it with a new nut and tightened it up the the correct torque (185 nm per Haynes).
No difference. Carried on and tightened it further - still about the same amount of play. Went a bit further still and still made no difference - wheel still spinning okay. Would be a bit over 200 nm now.
So is my bearing itself gone?? Or something completely different? And is that likely to be making the clunk? Any advice appreciated.
Had a go at taking the drum off for a look as well since I had the hub nut off but failed miserably - there were no retaining screws and put the wheel back on with 2 bolts for more leverage but nothing doing. Any tips?? Any way to back off the shoes?
Regards
Michael
306 rear wheel bearing????
Moderator: RichardW
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Dave Burns
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Those wheel bearings aren't adjustable so what the garage were trying to achieve is a bit of a mystery, once they have play in them its there for good.
To get the drum off, shove a screwdriver through a wheel bolt hole at roughly the 20 past position for the near side and 20 to for the off side, you need to find the handbrake lever inside the drum and push it away from the shoe, this will alow the return stop notch on the lever to clear the shoe, at the same time you have to force it rearward to contract the shoes, when you are sure it has cleared you can reposition the screwdriver for better leverage.
You will probably have to slacken the hand brake cable off from inside the car, if there isn't enough play in the cable the lever inside the drum will not move backwards.
Some rear brakes (bendix I think) have a ratchet and pawl type adjuster on the opposit shoe, you should be able to see it through one of the bolt holes at rougly the quarter to position on the near side and quarter past on the off side.
If you have this type simply insert a screwdriver through a bolt hole and force the lower ratchet downwards, when it disengages with the upper part the shoes should close up under spring pressure.
Take care not to damage the wheel bolt threads in the drum.
Dave
To get the drum off, shove a screwdriver through a wheel bolt hole at roughly the 20 past position for the near side and 20 to for the off side, you need to find the handbrake lever inside the drum and push it away from the shoe, this will alow the return stop notch on the lever to clear the shoe, at the same time you have to force it rearward to contract the shoes, when you are sure it has cleared you can reposition the screwdriver for better leverage.
You will probably have to slacken the hand brake cable off from inside the car, if there isn't enough play in the cable the lever inside the drum will not move backwards.
Some rear brakes (bendix I think) have a ratchet and pawl type adjuster on the opposit shoe, you should be able to see it through one of the bolt holes at rougly the quarter to position on the near side and quarter past on the off side.
If you have this type simply insert a screwdriver through a bolt hole and force the lower ratchet downwards, when it disengages with the upper part the shoes should close up under spring pressure.
Take care not to damage the wheel bolt threads in the drum.
Dave
This bearing "adjustment" I've heard of before. Some garages are taking out the inner (axlemost) bearing race (under the hub nut), then grinding the race a bit on the inner edge. Gives a slightly deeper fit, which "retorques" the bearing when the nut is done up again. Some trials necessary to "adjust" for "correct" bearing torque.
This is fast & cheaper than a new bearing.
It simply hides a shot bearing for a (very) short time. But enough to pass MOT.
This is fast & cheaper than a new bearing.
It simply hides a shot bearing for a (very) short time. But enough to pass MOT.