Peugeot 405 1.9td very smoky and idle jumps

[TimDonovan]

Alright,
I've ordered a continental timing belt,
I'll take it to work on Saturday and give the pulley a good go with the 12 bar impact gun. Also ima do an oil pan seal, which hopefully will sort out my leak problem.
Your advise with the woodruf key is really starting to make sense in my head, why its running s**t at idle or decelerating but under load it runs absolutely great.
I can't wait for Saturday, I'll keep u updated.

[TimDonovan]

Ok, managed to get some time and good Werther at the same time.
Got the pulley wheel of and removed the auxilary belt and all the Timing belt Covers.
Turns out my timing belt is pretty loose and I think my crank seal is bust.
Woodruff key looks pretty Solid tho, no Play in the crank sprocket wheel, with belt installed.
I've done some homework in my Haynes manual and it says I only need a few 8mm drills or bolts to lock the engine.
Do I need to remove the starter or is the hole in the fly wheel accessible without removing it ?

[CitroJim]

Do I need to remove the starter or is the hole in the fly wheel accessible without removing it ?

No, there's no need although the hole is a bit hard to find... It's just below a web in the casting. A small mirror will help.

I find the best way to lock the crank and indeed, find the hole, is to use a length of kunifer brake pipe - bent as appropriate..

It's essential - nay vital - you lock the crank...

[darbuck]

I'm not familiar with that engine but it depends on access I suppose on the c5 it's easier to remove the starter in my book.

[TimDonovan]

Ok boys.
Did the cam belt, timing was Dead on.
What a tight fit in that engine bay for doing the cam belt, nearly broke my fingers, but what an amazing tipp with bending a bit of brake pipe to lock the flywheel!
Only the ever so slightest play in the crank pulley for the cam belt with the woodruff key.
Engine still runs as s**t as it did before, but that cam belt definitely needed replacing.
So I was thinking headgasket, did a coolant cap co test, nothing.....
I'm really starting to struggle with ideas what it could be.
Still runs good accelerating and starts nocking decelerating.
Any other suggestions please, I'm still thinking diesel pump issue, what else should cause the engine too knock?
As I said timing is dead on, if we have the right adapter for the glow plugs I might try and do a compression test.
My Haynes manual is pretty much telling me with those symptoms injektors, pump or timing incorrect.
Any more suggestions or suspicions please tell me

[TimDonovan]

In addition to my last post:
I had injektors checked, and all good
I noticed quite a bit of smoke coming out my crank ventilation or rather my cold air intake hose, hence I haven't got my air filter or turbo hoses connected ATM.
Could my crank case ventilation valve be causing the problems ?

[moizeau]

I had the fun screw turned up a quarter turn but as soon as my problem started I turned it back to oem speck.

Going back to one of your early posts.
I don't know the Bosch pump. My 1.7TD had a Lucas. Is this a fuelling screw? On the Lucas it operated a diaphragm that was linked to the plenum and the vacuum operated the diaphragm which allowed extra fuel when on boost.
Mine split and the tell tale sign is diesel in the plenum, ran lumpy until you gave it loads of right foot which sucked all the diesel into the engine and it took off.

[TimDonovan]

Yeah, a m8 of mine who has a golf 2 gtd suggested to take the spacer from the boost aktuated enricher out. The one which sits on top of the dieselpump and the intercooler pipe goes to.
I think it allows it to travel further down and may be stuck, I'll check it tomorrow.
I still have that spacer in my glovebox, and that very well could explain all the smoke.

[CitroJim]

It's a bad idea go too far with the adjustment of the over-fuelling adjustment on the Bosch pump.

I know the issue you speak of on the Lucas pump Pete and it could conceivably happen on the Bosch.

It's normal for the engine to be a bit 'chuffy' out of the crankcase breather but should not be out of the main air intake.

If you have the big turbo hose disconnected at the inlet manifold (as I read it above) and you are seeing smoke issuing from the inlet manifold then you have an inlet valve that's not sealing properly.

A leak-down test (the diesel equivalent of a compression test) will be valuable at this point.

And indeed, if all else comes up good you're now looking at an internal problem in the pump.

Although you've checked the cambelt timing it's very much worth checking the pump woodruff key is in position.

And if you have any doubts about the integrity of the cambelt then change it quick - if it breaks it's effectively 'game over' for the engine.

[TimDonovan]

Ok I'll try and get my hands on a leak down tester with glow plugs adapter.
Ill check my lda first,
I've changed the belt and checked timing after, just couldn't get my fingers in there to change the idler and tensioner.
Where do I see pump woodruff key ?
Tha ks for the tips

[CitroJim]

Where do I see pump woodruff key ?

The woodruff key is on the tapered part of the pump driveshaft Tim. You'll need to remove the pump drive sprocket to see it and a small puller is needed. One is easy enough to fabricate at home... I can supply details of the one I made years ago if you want.

It'll take a while as I'll need to dig the details out of my archive.

[moizeau]

Also, when you changed the cam belt, did you slip the crankshaft pulley off to check it's woodruff key? I'm guessing so due to changing the crankshaft seal

[TimDonovan]

Ok, checked the Lda and put that plastic ring back in, no improvement.
I'll take the intercooler back of and start cracking some injektor pipes, see if that makes a difference, I don't really trust the test I got done on the injectors anymore.
The problem is so weird and sporadic it runs fine starts surging and knocking a little bit and then it goes back to running fine for a few sec and start doing it again.
And that it runs fine under load but really really sounds bad engine braking.
It just screams leaky injector for me, what are your thoughts on this.
Also thinking of letting it suck in brake Fluid to clean the combustion chamber,if valves would be a consideration.
I ll look into the woodruff key too but rather as a last resort, wish I would have done that while changing the belt.
I know a old Mercedes mechanic who's in pension, maybe he knows a few tips and tricks.

[TimDonovan]

Ok, sunny Saturday here in Germany,
Started her, with intercooler off and started cracking some injektor pipes, no improvements,
I noticed it ran quite well at first start up but started to knock and shake after maybe 30sec of running.
After turning her off I noticed smoke coming out of the intake manifold.
So it's probably a valve, it must be, im thinking.
I'll pop the valve cover off now and see how my hanes tells me to check valve clearance.
After seeing that I'm ruling out pretty much everything I was contemplating before.
What are your thoughts on exchaust out of the intake manifold?

[TimDonovan]

Ok, checked valves.
Exhaust valves are all spot on with 0.30mm
Inlet valves are on the looser side of things,
The 8th valve, the far right valve looking in to the engine bay, the one next to the vacuum pump.the .20 is a really loose fit inbetween the cam and shim. Can't fit a .25 in there tho. Is that the problem?
Sadly I don't have smaller step feeler gauges.
I noticed coolant is low again....... no drips tho.
So it must be going somewhere, looks like I aint getting away from the leakdown test.
That smoke coming out the intake is something that's going through my mind.