Car stalled mid drive and won't turn over again

[NinjaMe_YT]

Hi all I need some advice I have recently bought a used rear ended car ( c4 b7 1.6 hdi 92hp ) that worked fine I decided to drive it home and mid drive about 20 min in no errors cane on but I've noticed car struggling to get revs up (it didn't when I left the salvage place) and when I tried to push it harder on a straight to get up to 100kmh it cutoff and dash said, stop immediately, pulled on the side tried to turn it off and on with no luck, it cranks fine but won't turn over. Plugged out the battery for the night got it recovered next day and started to think what could've went wrong. The car starts when easy start is sprayed inside the I take so I assume it's a matter of fuel not being let in...

I did a diagnostic check with following codes P0215 P0532 U1401. Checked the fuse on my engine box and fuel pump fues is good, Im in process of removing the common rail sensor see if that can be an issue.

Also ran some live data on my friends obd and hpfp is good from the look of things it's about 250-300bar on idle going up to 400-500ish when cranking.
Injectors work evenly (and when started it runs smooth to my ear)
When doing the inspection the car starts when cranking a solid 10 seconds or so But the car stalls after couple of minutes running. I feel like the rail is not sending right info or maybe tank pump is gone ? Any ideas or advice ?

[RichardW]

That's a bit confusing....

You say it cranks but doesn't turn over - may be terminology but these are generally the same thing. Assume you mean it won't fire?

Then you say it won't start, but the injectors are working evenly when it does, and quote a fuel pressure at idle and then higher when 'running'? And the numbers quoted are difficult to interpret without units.

Fuel P is usually 0 at key on, then builds when cranking. These need 3 things to start:

Visibility of engine cranking (should be around 180 rpm)
Cam / Crank synchronisation
Fuel pressure above about 200 bar

If you look at live data when cranking you should be able to see which one is missing - might be worth a quick check through the oil filler that the crank is still going round.

None of the fault codes should stop it running (except perhaps the P02015 - but not sure what that's about if you can talk to the ECU?).

[GiveMeABreak]

I've left the Air Conditioning one for now as it probably isn't related to the starting issue.

Fault Code:	P0215
Description of Fault:	Main relay control: Poor operation of the relay, the ECU is not being supplied as it should be. The engine management ECU is still supplied 1 seconds after the request to cut off its supply. Loss of supply of the engine ECU for 1 s without a prior request being detected, due to an incorrect value memorised at the following wake-up. Conditions of activation of the diagnostics: The following conditions have to be met: - Ignition switched on - Battery voltage more than 10 V
Conditions for Fault to clear:	Driving for 5 minutes
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	-
Symptoms:	Starting problem
Suspect Areas:	Main relay Electrical harness Connectors

Fault Code:	U1401
Description of Fault:	Alternator LIN network: Registering of a fault on the slave node of the alternator LIN network. Faults in communication between ECUs on the CAN. Conditions of activation of the diagnostics: At least one of the following conditions must be fulfilled: - Ignition switched on - Engine running
Conditions for Fault to clear:	Driving for 5 minutes
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	-
Symptoms:	Jerking/stalling Starting problem Lack of power Absence of automatic stopping of the internal combustion engine (Vehicle equipped with "stop and start") Problem with automatic restarting of the internal combustion engine (Vehicle equipped with "stop and start")
Suspect Areas:	LIN network Engine ECU Alternator

[NinjaMe_YT]

That's a bit confusing....

You say it cranks but doesn't turn over - may be terminology but these are generally the same thing. Assume you mean it won't fire?

Then you say it won't start, but the injectors are working evenly when it does, and quote a fuel pressure at idle and then higher when 'running'? And the numbers quoted are difficult to interpret without units.

Fuel P is usually 0 at key on, then builds when cranking. These need 3 things to start:

Visibility of engine cranking (should be around 180 rpm)
Cam / Crank synchronisation
Fuel pressure above about 200 bar

If you look at live data when cranking you should be able to see which one is missing - might be worth a quick check through the oil filler that the crank is still going round.

None of the fault codes should stop it running (except perhaps the P02015 - but not sure what that's about if you can talk to the ECU?).

Yeah sorry it cranks over but wouldnt start, now yesterday when trying to see if changing the fuel rail sensors or maybe a fuel filter will do something unfortunately it didn't but I realised after cranking for some time 10 ISH seconds it fires up. But stalls on idle shortly after if u keep the revs up it doesn't stall.
Live data I checked was the rpm (once started the rpm went up to 750 +/-)
I checked injectors seem to be firing fine
The high pressure fuel pump had 250bars and jumped to over 450 after it started
And one in the tank under the seat was at 5 bars.

[NinjaMe_YT]

UPDATE CAR RUNNING AGAIN IT HAD NO FUEL, FUEL GAGE BROKE ANY IDEA HOW TO FIX THAT WILL IT BE ELECTRIC ISSUE AS IT HAS A SCREEN INDICATOR NO ACTUAL ANALOG NEEDLE TO SHOW LEVEL ?