Electric box hydraulic suspension pump

[Kees]

Hello, forummers.
I have a problem with the hydraulic pump. It starts with an error about the suspension.
Now i find out, that the problem is in the little black box in front of the pump. I need to open this one, because there is a connection not reliable inside.
I removed the four screws but something is holding the cap.
I put a picture in here, what seems the detail where it's holding it behind.
So how to open this?
Greetings,
Kees.

[GiveMeABreak]

It's not designed to be opened, I believe it's a sealed unit Kees.

[Kees]

Hai,Marc.
I managed to open it!
You have to remove the tiny black cap, it's glued.
Then you see a tiny torx screw and if you remove the 4 torx on the corner then you can open it.
To get on the other side of the pcb you have to desolder the big lead contact.
I resolder al the components in the area of the outside connectors.
The pomp is now working fine, tomorrow i have to let out the air in the system and hope everything is fine.

Greetings,
Kees.

[GiveMeABreak]

Hopefully that will resolve the issue, but make sure the unit is properly sealed again to prevent any moisture build up internally.

[Kees]

I only work on the electronic, not the pomp itself, and checked the condition of the carbon brushes.
Greetings

[Jay-Bruce]

It's not designed to be opened, I believe it's a sealed unit Kees.

When has that ever stopped French Car Forum members

[Paul-R]

Damn right!

[GiveMeABreak]

It's not designed to be opened, I believe it's a sealed unit Kees.

When has that ever stopped French Car Forum members

Indeed - not saying you shouldn't, just that it was not intended to be Just make sure your seal it back up really well, or moisture will get in and repeat the corrosive process. Trying to find a good water-tight glue can be difficult - especially with plastics. I've yet to find anything that does this well!

[Jay-Bruce]

They're not sealed in the first place, that's how the LDS hydraulic fluid gets in and turns the dry dust into a conductive paste that does for the maxi fuse... But you're right, they SHOULD be sealed, for this sort of stuff, especially where oil is involved, I swear by tigerseal, or an alternative polyurethane mastyc type sealant such as sikaflex's offerings. Don't call me bad names if you struggle to get the stuff off afterwards.

[vallium]

For future reference here is some more discussion on this including alternative BHI motor disassembly with removal of headlight, without disturbing the hydraulic circuit

viewtopic.php?t=84152

After fight with corroded-in-place bottom two bolts I'm finally inside the brains

Cap itself is glued tongue and groove affair, don't know how Kees managed to open it so cleanly. I've used a fret saw with aid of scalpel and utility knife. Alternative access to hidden bolt could be with drilling through circular cap but that's a vent so pick your poison.

Circuit board itself is pretty stuck in place. Main power connector does not pass through, there is only blob above signal connector. For its removal you have to unsolder the capacitor, 3 or 6 contact points down the middle and blob above the signal connector? Is that correct or can something remain undisturbed?

[vallium]

Another observation: both circuit boards are marked 840.055-01 so it seems that both inline-4 and V6 cars have same electric motors on their BHIs, difference is only in hydraulic part

[Kees]

The V6,opposite the 4 cylinders have a separate extra computer for calculating suspension and height of the car, but at the end there are no difference in the BHI,although the V6 has 4 separate height sensors, there are no separate tubes to the struts or stiffness regulator's.
I think, the idea was to the same as the C6 making a version with the AMVAR system, but this will make the car more expensive.
Greetings,
Kees.