activa questions

timmsd · Unread post by **timmsd** » 11 Apr 2003, 16:37

I have bought a p-reg activa. Wonderful car to drive and cheap for what you get. There are a few problems I would like advice on. I am used to citroens and am not a novice but would like the collective advice of all your regular readers before I dive in.
First suspension. I note that the switch light on the sports/normal mode illuminates just, but very dimly. There is little difference between the two modes. I suspect a sphere, but which one.
When started it takes quite a while for the pressure stop lights to go out and the system to become fully pressurised. I suspect a weak hydraulic pump. I have spares, would I be wise to change this for a known better pump?
I have noticed that on stopping at junctions etc it sometimes changes its ride height, seems like the roll bar rams adjusting. Any ideas?
Finally, the engine runs great, but there is a slight cam rattle. Sounds very much like a tappet a bit out. Now this car has covered 100,000 and it would not surprise me if the shims or bucket tappets have worn. May even be a cam lobe. It is the 8 valve 2.0CT engine. My first step was to measure the clearances and then reshim if necessary. Do these engines need a reshim after this sort of mileage?
Thanks for any help
Dave

alexx · Unread post by **alexx** » 11 Apr 2003, 22:28

About Activa suspension, have a look at my previous posts
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=2529

timmsd · Unread post by **timmsd** » 13 Apr 2003, 04:04

Alex
thanks for your direction to the previous postings. This makes sense and has helped me understand this system. Anti sink sphere is the first suspect.
Any ideas on the cam rattle and probability of needing a re-shim?
Dave

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 13 Apr 2003, 07:42

Dave -
You do'nt want to reshim any engine, unless absolutely necessary. It's allways a cam off-on job [xx(]
In your case I'd immediately check the camBELT for correct tension. Loose cambelts are more common than not, simply because they stretch during service life.
Try give the engine a fresh oil, preferrably thicker than you would think off.
Modern thin synt oils are the MOST common cause to ticking & generally noisy engines. Simply because these oil's thinner oil skins allow engine components larger play. A 10W-40/15W-40 engine oil would quickly indicate whether the engine is worn (still ticking/noisy), or simply prefer this thicker oil.
My BX16 engine is very noisy when running synt 5W-40, but rev's very well, with incredible power for this engine size.
When using mineral 10W-40 (factory spec), the engine is silent & still a rev'er.

timmsd · Unread post by **timmsd** » 14 Apr 2003, 03:51

Anders.
I don't mind the cam off/on job. Done it before. Will try a 40/15 as you suggest first. I was considering this. Cambelt - if loose would this really case the tappet rattle? is this because the valve timing would be a little off?
Dave

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 14 Apr 2003, 07:41

Dave -
Experienced this on a BX16. It also had an "impossible" unstable idle problem caused by the loose cambelt.
This BX was in rather poor condition, driven for many miles (some 190K on clock) without any service, except topping up engine & hydraulic oil, but it had a full (Citroen stamps !!!) servicebook right up untill last possible service, according to miles counter :
# about 12mm wideness left on (loose) cambelt
# waterpump leaking, axle tilting (cause of cambelt chafing/filing)
# ineffective (seized) belt tensioner
# oil on clutch, impossible to make soft gearchanges
# oil leaking from all axle seals (cause of clutch problem)
# cracks on 1 sparkplug (still working fine though)
# starting problems caused by miss-adjusted (or left over) coldstart valve adjusting.
# rusty oil filter can (ever swapped ??)
# LHM reservoir almost hidden in a cave of dirt
# LHM leaking badly from Octopus (rotten)
But it was running fine.
On my CX22TRS I've also seen a loose cambelt once. This was caused by a seized tensioner spring. This is a bit special on the CX 22 engine, since the tensioner is built on to the water pump housing, spring quite sensitive to rust caused by a leaking water pump.
Note that carbon deposits generally tends to enlarge the valve clearance !!
- simply because the valve then can not get fully seated when closed (but still holds tight).
Your problem might then be oil leak from a worn valve stem oil seal, causing the carbon build-up.
This points to 2 first time checks to be done :
1) Replace engine oil
2) Run the car for a couple of tankfulls, with engine/injection cleaner added

timmsd · Unread post by **timmsd** » 14 Apr 2003, 16:42

Will do as you suggest but I'll check the valve clearances as well. I'm taking it off the raod for a while after easter to sort out all the little niggles but I won't get started until mid May, I'll let you know what I find.
Thanks for your advice
Dave

surfer · Unread post by **surfer** » 15 Apr 2003, 18:52

Dave,
The switch for the Hydractive does illuminate weakly in daylight, much as the aircon item does; short of fitting brighter bulbs behind the switch insert, I think it's something that you have to live with.
As for the Hydractive in general, I struggle to tell the difference between on/off too, but since the Activa suspension is very stiff anyway, I don't think the extra damping is of any benefit.
I haven't driven a regular Xantia, but would expect there to be a more noticeable effect on the suspension with/without Hydractive than there is with Activas.
simon.

RichardH · Unread post by **RichardH** » 16 Apr 2003, 16:03

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by timmsd

I have bought a p-reg activa. Wonderful car to drive and cheap for what you get. There are a few problems I would like advice on. I am used to citroens and am not a novice but would like the collective advice of all your regular readers before I dive in.
First suspension. I note that the switch light on the sports/normal mode illuminates just, but very dimly. There is little difference between the two modes. I suspect a sphere, but which one.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The bulb holder is a green plastic tube, closed off at one end with a wire tailed bulb inside. What happens is that the heat from the bulb scorches the green plastic, blackening it and reducing the light output. I don't know if Citroen sell the bulb holders seperately or not, I swapped mine in the hydractive and aircon switches with those in the rear window lift isolator and alarm volumetric sensor switches.

I too don't see any discernable difference with the hydractive button pressed in or not, all it does is switch the suspension computer into a mode where it is more likely to select hard mode. This mode switching is continuous depending on the inputs from a number of sensors. The Activa ride is (for a Citroen), quite hard anyway, the handling is like nothing else I've driven [:D]
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
When started it takes quite a while for the pressure stop lights to go out and the system to become fully pressurised. I suspect a weak hydraulic pump. I have spares, would I be wise to change this for a known better pump?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
You have ten spheres to pressurise!, this seem to be very common. When I can afford I'm going to get my spheres checked/re-gassed. Other possibilities are an internal leak in the Activa rams, they are about £200 each I believe [:0]
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
I have noticed that on stopping at junctions etc it sometimes changes its ride height, seems like the roll bar rams adjusting. Any ideas?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Mine has been much better for this behaviour since giving the height corrector linkages a thorough lubrication. I also try and put the suspension through a high to low and back sequence once a week or so.
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
Finally, the engine runs great, but there is a slight cam rattle. Sounds very much like a tappet a bit out. Now this car has covered 100,000 and it would not surprise me if the shims or bucket tappets have worn. May even be a cam lobe. It is the 8 valve 2.0CT engine. My first step was to measure the clearances and then reshim if necessary. Do these engines need a reshim after this sort of mileage?
Thanks for any help
Dave
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Mine is just the same, 86000 miles. I think it's just a "feature" of that engine, mine runs great, uses no oil so I'm not going to worry about it.
For me the only downside of the Activa is the fuel consumption but the XM with the 2.0 turbo engine seems to do about the same, 22mpg about town [:(] If only they had imported the turbo diesel engined Activa to the UK
Richard

Raqdog · Unread post by **Raqdog** » 30 Apr 2005, 20:55

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by surfer

Dave,
The switch for the Hydractive does illuminate weakly in daylight, much as the aircon item does; short of fitting brighter bulbs behind the switch insert, I think it's something that you have to live with.
As for the Hydractive in general, I struggle to tell the difference between on/off too, but since the Activa suspension is very stiff anyway, I don't think the extra damping is of any benefit.
I haven't driven a regular Xantia, but would expect there to be a more noticeable effect on the suspension with/without Hydractive than there is with Activas.
simon.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Raqdog · Unread post by **Raqdog** » 30 Apr 2005, 20:59

The Active damping...both on Hydractive and Activa only starts when sensors on the car tell it to. All the switch does is allow it to activate a bit earlier. In all hydractive cars, you only get the extra springing and damping under braking, cornering and so on...you CANNOT get it during normal driving unless the sensors fail.
You can't feel it because it is well engineered. If you became aware of it, it would be coming on too early!
My Activa is not very firm at all. It is certainly not as firm as a similar coil sprung car, and only slightly worse than a typical Xantia SX. If that one is 'very firm' it has at least one sphere gone...
Mine also takes an age to pressurise...I certainly have a weak Accumulator sphere...but the time it takes is a pain. It shouldn't de-pressurise as fast as it does either...inconvenient...
Slower drivers might use the Sport switch as Hydractive cars like to be used briskly for the system to really benefit the passenger...the likelyhood of the active systems switching-on goes up as speed rises. At medium speeds a slower driver might notice more roll than he expected...in those cases the switch makes the system more sensitive to smaller steering inputs, cornering forces, and so on.
The bulbs in the switches have a crystalline coloured sleeve over them. It darkens but comes opaque from heat over the years. Dump the coloured sleeve...it will crumble in your fingers and use a coloured gel...sweetie wrappers or whatever on the inside of the button top...works a treat, you get to choose the colour...mines blood red now!...and works for all of them...I have glacial light blue for the air-con...Brr!
Jon

I have bought a p-reg activa. Wonderful car to drive and cheap for what you get. There are a few problems I would like advice on. I am used to citroens and am not a novice but would like the collective advice of all your regular readers before I dive in.
First suspension. I note that the switch light on the sports/normal mode illuminates just, but very dimly. There is little difference between the two modes. I suspect a sphere, but which one.
When started it takes quite a while for the pressure stop lights to go out and the system to become fully pressurised. I suspect a weak hydraulic pump. I have spares, would I be wise to change this for a known better pump?
I have noticed that on stopping at junctions etc it sometimes changes its ride height, seems like the roll bar rams adjusting. Any ideas?
Finally, the engine runs great, but there is a slight cam rattle. Sounds very much like a tappet a bit out. Now this car has covered 100,000 and it would not surprise me if the shims or bucket tappets have worn. May even be a cam lobe. It is the 8 valve 2.0CT engine. My first step was to measure the clearances and then reshim if necessary. Do these engines need a reshim after this sort of mileage?
Thanks for any help
Dave
[/quote]

ActivaV6uk · Unread post by **ActivaV6uk** » 01 May 2005, 02:52

all your coments are normal, the knocking is the injectors firing (no idea why its so noisy on these engines).
i'd recomend 2 things,
1 hydroflush the system
2 join www.activanet.co.uk and you can talk to fellow activa owners
Andy