Citroen C5 II 136 HDI FAP 2006 Clutch cylinder problem

[Disaster189]

Hello, good afternoon,

I wanted to ask you for help with a small question that I have, since I need to replace the clutch cylinder of my Citroen C5 II 2006 FAP HDI 136CV, i've seen a notch or indentation in the new piece and I'm wondering if it means something or has some special position? I select with yellow arrow in the photo:



I also wonder if you have to put grease between the plastic part and the metal part that pushes or it is not necessary and it should be dry.

Is there also any special procedure to bleed the clutch cylinder? Or just open the bleeder while another person presses the clutch pedal? Thanks in advance for your time and help.


Also another additional question, although it is not the same topic, is whether the electronic accelerator pedal can be calibrated, since I noticed a small dead travel at the beginning.

[Disaster189]

So I looked for some photos and posts online but nothing clear about that cleft.

[PaulC5]

I have found the best way to bleed the clutch is to suck the fluid through with a vacuum pump (or large syringe) on the slave cylinder bleed screw. The fluid level in the reservoir needs to be kept high since the outlet to the clutch is not at the bottom. The bleed screw has to be opened quite a bit for the fluid to flow. Pressing the pedal does not work well. Some Citroen slave cylinders though have a clip system on the slave cylinder connections and these are bled differently, our C5s have not had these but were on a 2010 C3.

[GiveMeABreak]

There is a master and slave clutch cylinder on the MK II C5s.

[Disaster189]

Thank you very much for the answers, do you know if the brand that I point out in the photo has any special position when it comes to assembly? I will purge with a syringe instead of pressing the pedal.

[GiveMeABreak]

There are no updated / replacement parts for the slave cylinder that I can see during production run for information.

[Disaster189]

There are no updated / replacement parts for the slave cylinder that I can see during production run for information.

Thank you very much, I hope if someone has changed it before and tells their experience with that slot selected in the image.

[Disaster189]

After replacing the clutch cylinder selected in the image above, my clutch was soft (valeo single-mass clutch installed on Citroen 60,000 km ago) I bled it by pressing the clutch lever and opening the bleeder until all the air came out. It worked great the first few days and the clutch He didn't shake like he did before. Two days later, I noticed the pedal halfway down and lifted it up with my foot. It had its normal travel again, but I noticed that the clutch shook again when leaving. I want to purge with a syringe, absorbing as the colleague above said, do you think that will make a difference? any other advice? thank you

[PaulC5]

Since it is easy to do, I would bleed it again but make sure the fluid level is high in the reservoir so you do not get air into the cylinders. If this does not help then possibly the master cylinder has a fault, you can check it for leaks in the footwell.

[Disaster189]

Since it is easy to do, I would bleed it again but make sure the fluid level is high in the reservoir so you do not get air into the cylinders. If this does not help then possibly the master cylinder has a fault, you can check it for leaks in the footwell.

Thanks for your reply. It's a little strange what happened and not the reason (unless that notch I pointed out in the first photo message has something to do with this)

I replaced the clutch cylinder, because I noticed vibrations in the clutch when leaving (I bled it just in case before changing it but it did not improve) so I bought one from the Valeo brand and changed it, I bled it with another person by pressing the clutch and the clutch improved and it stopped vibrating at all, two days later it happened that the clutch pedal only went up halfway, so I raised it all the way by pushing it with my foot and now the travel is complete again, but with vibrations...

I will purge again this time with a syringe absorbing liquid.


I wonder if the notch has something to do with this problem, or what strange thing is happening, the clutch pedal master cylinder seems dry, I haven't seen any leaks or anything like that.

Also another additional question, although not the same topic, is if the electronic accelerator pedal can be calibrated, as I noticed a little dead travel at first.

[PaulC5]

I had a look in the Haynes C5 manual at slave cylinder replacement and there is no mention of notches in the end of it, just to bolt the cylinder in place or for some gear boxes it is locked in place by twisting 90°. It says to put some molybdenum disulphide grease on the end of the cylinder.

Some C5s have an accelerator pedal cable which can be adjusted at the engine end but I suspect you will have an electronic pedal without any adjustment so if nothing happens for the first part of its travel then maybe there is some wear inside it. I would check if the rpm gradually increases as the pedal is pressed, if so then it is probably ok but if it jumps then possibly it is worn.

[Disaster189]

I had a look in the Haynes C5 manual at slave cylinder replacement and there is no mention of notches in the end of it, just to bolt the cylinder in place or for some gear boxes it is locked in place by twisting 90°. It says to put some molybdenum disulphide grease on the end of the cylinder.

Some C5s have an accelerator pedal cable which can be adjusted at the engine end but I suspect you will have an electronic pedal without any adjustment so if nothing happens for the first part of its travel then maybe there is some wear inside it. I would check if the rpm gradually increases as the pedal is pressed, if so then it is probably ok but if it jumps then possibly it is worn.

thank you! Is there any way to obtain that manual online or share it? It would be very cool for me thank you! I didn't add any fat but I'll try to add it.

[PaulC5]

The Haynes manual can be bought as a paper copy but they also sell it as an on-line copy. Do not bother with the Autofix version though, from what I have read they are not that good. https://haynes.com/en-gb/citroen/c5/200 ... sel-409039

[Disaster189]

I saw a failure in the meeting; I have installed correctly now and drained again, I saw that liquid was leaking because the gasket was not inserted in the slot. A question about the manual gearbox oil valve c5 136cv hdi fap 2006 opr 10735, they told me that it takes 2.6 liters, so empty and fill with 2.6 liters? Is there a level screw somewhere?

[Disaster189]

This was the O-ring where brake fluid leaks; At first it was not inserted as in the image (in the slit) I reassembled it and in a few days I will check if it loses more liquid or not They don't sell the gasket loose. Does anyone know the procedure and amount of oil filling for the 6-speed cvm 136hdi rhr gearbox? Some people say 2.6 liters, others fill until overflowing at the top. empty and add 2.6 liters (2.2-2.3 liters came out