C5 X7 Jacking for Major Work

[HelioMV]

Hi Everyone,

Sorry for the inactivity last time around! I have a 2009 C5 X7 that suffered a very loud knocking which as far as I can make out is the DMF and clutch. It was dodgy when bought and now its gone! It does till drive but clutch is funny and a horrible knocking noise emanates when the engine is loaded or the clutch is depressed. I have since had to buy a new car and have reduced my C5 to "project car" status My plan this spring is to replace the clutch with an SMF conversion kit and get this thing back on the road as I miss driving a big comfortable exec with hydro suspension!

The garage said I could use a lift, until they changed their mind, so I need to get this done with a jack, axle stands and a lot of hope! TL;DR I'm worried about the suspension and how to jack it up.

1. Do I need to depressurize the circuit with diagbox (especially as the instructions on service box specify I'm removing power steering pipes) or just get it in high mode and take the cap off? Bear in mind the front of the car will be quite high and the rear will be compressed.

2. Where do I support the vehicle on stands so that (a) it will be safe for me and the car?? (b) I can get the driveshafts off?? I planned to support it around where the wishbones connect to the back of the front subframe as that area takes a lot of load (correct me if wrong term) but I think that'll impede getting the driveshafts off.

3. Does anyone know a way that I can do less, i.e. move the gearbox aside without completely dropping it? I have seem Williams mobile clutch guy do a 1.6HDi VTR one by moving it aside. I'm aware mine has a bigger engine and box and it's heaps more complex what with the suspension and steering system that it's got.

I appreciate any help. I promised myself that I'd do everything to stop her going to the scrappers (especially my local undesirables ) but we will see! I have done battle with the dreaded wishbones, timing belt and wiper motors, but is this a step too far?

Best Regards everyone,

Helio

[darbuck]

It would be the same procedure but less room and the gearbox in the 2.0 hdi is a heavy bitch. I personally pull engine and gearbox out with my engine crane but it's a lot of work and if you don't know how to support the car with jack stands a clutch might be a bit much for you to start with.

[Rp0thejester]

All I can advise is that you jack the car as high as you can and place timbers underneath on both sides, don't really on axle stands as there temporary only. In theory you can put a car up 100 metres plus if the timbers are wide enough. The higher you jack it up the better or the gearbox won't come out. If you can, get a trolley dolly underneath the gearbox and slide it out. Facing the car downhill on a steep slope could help.

[Jay-Bruce]

Get a couple of bellhousing bolts (engine to gearbox) and figure out what thread they are, then buy long bolts of the same thread, with a short threaded section and a long unthread section (called a shank), cut the neads off the bolts, and screw them into the engine where some of the bellhousing bolts go. These will act like guide pins to help you by making it easier to slide the gearbox away from the engine without the spiggot shaft from the gearbox binding on the friction plate splines on the way out. They also help align the gearbox with the engine when reassembling it...

Don't be shy about asking questions on how to get this bit off, or any tips for that task etc. I'ts a big undertaking, but we'll help you in anway we can.

And, since this is your first big job, I seriously recommend you buy a 407 haynes manual - the 407 and C5 X7 are basically the same mechanically, so every step of the job on a 407 will be the same as a C5 and you can get them for under £20 posted on eBay.

[Steve Walsh]

Get a couple of bellhousing bolts (engine to gearbox) and figure out what thread they are, then buy long bolts of the same thread, with a short threaded section and a long unthread section (called a shank), cut the neads off the bolts, and screw them into the engine where some of the bellhousing bolts go. These will act like guide pins to help you by making it easier to slide the gearbox away from the engine without the spiggot shaft from the gearbox binding on the friction plate splines on the way out. They also help align the gearbox with the engine when reassembling it...

Don't be shy about asking questions on how to get this bit off, or any tips for that task etc. I'ts a big undertaking, but we'll help you in anway we can.

And, since this is your first big job, I seriously recommend you buy a 407 haynes manual - the 407 and C5 X7 are basically the same mechanically, so every step of the job on a 407 will be the same as a C5 and you can get them for under £20 posted on eBay.

Good Advice !

[HelioMV]

Thanks for all the advice guys! Much appreciated. Got a 407 Manual OTW and will be getting some timbers as well as axle stands! It isn't my first big job, but it's my first big job on a BIG care as a pose to a tiny little one! And as regards the suspension, full depressurize or just full high and cap loose?

Many thanks again guys,

Helio

[KennyW]

Please DO NOT work under a hydraulic citroen without it supported.

Fully depressuised, but get the car raised and supported prior to depressuising the system.

It means if any high pressure pipes burst no spraying of LDS fluid all over the place.

Kenny

[HelioMV]

Thanks everyone!! I'll get it supported in high position and then depressurize I guess. I should be safe to get the front high for a few mins pre-depressurization. As mentioned, I am doing the dmf to smf conversion and have issues with my daily atm so will be on slow(ish) burner. I have got myself a 407 manual and hopefully I can get this thing back on the road, sad as it was once my pride and joy, but money and work dictates!!

[HelioMV]

Additionally, anyone got any good ideas on where exactly to support it? Obviously nothing too frontal as its all coming off! Planning to support the two sides

[Steve Walsh]

4 Jacking points are on the lip on the bottom of the sills, but are very weak, on my 2 post lift I use the rear jacking points and then under front subframe bolts.

[Stickyfinger]

I would go with Engine and Box out the top......way better and safer than trying to drop the Box etc out of the bottom via stands.

[HelioMV]

Gearbox AND engine! Jesus!! I guess the car would be lower but thats a lot of faff! I know I am no expert though and I appreciate the suggestion. Valid option and less high up. No chance the box would come out by itself with a crane no? All the airbox, batt tray ecu and all that crap is out of the way

[HelioMV]

just had a look, excuse my stupidity, the answer will be no

[Steve Walsh]

Before I had a car lift I did a clutch on a 406 estate, Sat it on blocks with enough room to get under, and used a hoist to lower box down when ready to come out, I dont think it will come out upwards, and lifted in the same way. Not easy but do able. When you set it on blocks dont forget both driveshafts need to come out, so leave yourself plenty of room. And one thing I do even now with a lift, keep a phone within reach under the car. Just in case!

[Steve Walsh]

And forgot to say, engine will need supporting as it uses gearbox for a mounting on that end