Gearbox Oil reset counter

[MattSVK]

Hello there,

I wanted to ask You over here as I had different feedbacks on resetting the Automatic Gearbox Oil counter after changing the oil If it should be done. Some saying that if the gearbox is not in good order it is not advise but some saying that this will not hurt it or do some damage to it as it is only telling that there is new oil to the ECU.

Thank You in advance ...

BTW: I have no error in Diagbox but it is true that shifting could be smoother as sometimes it is very nice and sometimes is not. Similar to this viewtopic.php?p=635204#p635204


Peugeot 508 2.0 GT 133kw 2017

[GiveMeABreak]

The purpose of the oil counter is to record the high temperature spikes in the oil through normal use. Over time as the oil degrades, the gearbox ECU makes small changes to the gearbox operation to account for this. Draining and refilling the automatic gearbox oil requires the oil counter reset, so that it can adapt the operation again knowing that the oil has been changed.

You should change the oil at about 50k miles and do about 3 changes to make sure you get as much of the contaminated oil out of the system.

See my post and the associated video here:

viewtopic.php?p=766875#p766875

The only thing I would add is that if the oil has never been changed with high mileage and there are issues with gearbox performance, then changing the actual gearbox oil may cause more problems, as you will be circulating all the crap and debris from the gearbox that has previously settled and this may make things worse. In these situations, there is some additive that can be added (like Lucas Transmission Fix) to reduce slipping, but in these situations the box will be on borrowed time anyway in the worst cases.

So if your gearbox is healthy, do a fluid change every 50k miles to keep it in good running order.

[MattSVK]

The oil has been changed today only the reset counter was not done. But I will do it tomorrow to see what will happen.

Thank you for quick response Marc

[LedZep]

I have same car and i bought it used with some known history service, except gearbox oil change at 117.000 km.The car was in excellent condition but my only concern was if the gearbox was in good shape. Garages are full of crying owners after they heard the price of fixing, who were thinking that the gearbox oil is "eternal" and "oil sealed".

In my case i changed the ATF oil of the AISIN- AM6 gearbox with a known Belgian brand with spec AisinWarner JWS 3309(T-IV)/3324(WS)/AW-1/AW-2 spec and i believe that i made the right choice. If the gearbox is damaged because of lack of oil changes, then you can't do nothing.You can't avoid the problem whatever you do.At least maybe you can save it before it's too late.In my case i think i did because i didn't have rattles in gear changes as i read in most cases. Plus i saw the ECU history via diagbox and there were no gearbox stall or high temperatures.

The gearbox oil get contaminated as and solenoids, from friction material of metal parts and clutches e.t.c. Then it becomes a fine paste of these materials which is working as a friction material in the clutches which they are burnt. When it's too late and you change the ATF oil , the gearbox slips because this friction material oil is missing which was essentially the "fluid clutch" between the disk clutches .

From what i understand from my research, when the ECU won't get reset because of oil change, then it reduces slightly the performance of the gearbox to not get burnt. If you make a "fake" reset without change the oil, in sometime the first rattles will appear in gear changes.And if you persist it will be in "safe or back up mode" and 3rd gear i think or 100 km/h.

Something else is that because I thought i did the reset of the wear counter the 1st time, i noticed a slip between 2 and 3rd gear or 3-4. I did the reset again the right way (diagbox 7.855, key in key reader) the gearbox is working smoothly now.

[GiveMeABreak]

Just make sure you use the correct oil in the AM6 gearbox - there are 2 types depending if the vehicle is Euro 4 or Euro 5 as to which oil is needed.

[LedZep]

In my case it's EURO 6 and adblue and the fill plug in red color was stamped with AW1 spec.In a company of gearbox specialist i read that is better to have and the JWS 3309 spec.My ATF choice had both specs by luck. I was just looking for AW1.The site of manufacturer had "find the right oil".. for dummies..

[GiveMeABreak]

EURO 5 engine: JWS 3324
EURO 4 engine: JWS 3309

Never use JWS 3309 oil in a Euro 5 or later.

The AM6 gearboxes are different, each have different gearbox part numbers, different hydraulic blocks and software depending on the build dates. So just because it is an AM6 it doesn't mean they are identical gearboxes.

[LedZep]

All of the ATFs brands that i saw (Mannol, Raxol, Motul Ravenol e.t.c) had these specs along with AW-1. Many companies use the TF80 gearbox design with their ECU's and different solenoids. And all where introduce the above oil specs (extended spec range) from their DB the right oil for my car (2.0, 180ps). In my case i used a Raxol ATF 6000 which had the AW-1 spec and the one that company suggests for my car. What can you do?

[GiveMeABreak]

As you can see the 2 oil types have significantly different viscosities and other properties:

Click Images to Zoom

JWS 3324 (Euro 5)

JWS 3309 (Euro 4)

Later EAT 8 Speed Gearboxes use AW2.

[LedZep]

This is the specs of the oil i used.I think and hope is in spec for AW-1 that my car requires.Most oils state that "do everything". Must be very careful.