BX 1.9D clutch change

sketch · Unread post by **sketch** » 04 Jul 2005, 20:03

Hi,
I'm planning to do a clutch change on my BX diesel built in 1991.
I'm going to try the strut-trick to avoid having to undo the lower balljoint.
So in steps:
- Remove wheel / hubnut
- release hydr. pressure, unslacken strut, remove driveshaft
- remove gearbox
- change clutch
- put everything back and pray it works

My questions:
- do I have to support the gears in the diff. when removing the rhs driveshaft or is this applicable for older makes only?
- Which parts do I need besides a new clutch; what oil seals etc. are needed; Haynes confuses me a little.
Thank you in advance,
Tom Jansen

AlWilliams · Unread post by **AlWilliams** » 04 Jul 2005, 20:09

Not sure about supporting the diff gears (although I'd expect you don't need to), as for seals the two drive shaft and input oils seals should be changed as good practice.
Since you are under the car, it's a good idea to change the clutch cable if it looks old / rusty, or you are uncertain about it.

vanny · Unread post by **vanny** » 04 Jul 2005, 21:47

sounds a bit over top by the sounds of things!
My usual method goes along the lines of;
1) remove all the air inlet system (including the top air box) and take out the radiator (you REALLY want to do this!)
2) Get the car in the air, take of N/S wheel and undo the bottom ball joint (usually quite easy!), and the antiroll bar drop link.
3) Stick a collecting pan under the back of the dif housing, and tug on the brake disc, this will pull the drive shaft out of the gear box and you should be able to then sting it under the back of the diff.
4) support the engine AND the gearbox and remove the gear box mount, ideally you need to remove the whole pin from the gear box and not just the nut and rubber at the top!
5) unbolt the box and slide back an inch, then you want to bring to box up and out of then engine bay on a hoist, remembering to pull ou the long side shaft when you start to rais ethe box and watch out for that god awefull battery tray!
Once the box is out it should be pretty obvious and easy what to do. Clutch friction material (like everything on the car) is carsenogenic so where gloves! Hard part is getting the clutch aligned the first time! You will need new seals in the diff housing (the driveshaft seals) and make sure you get them the right way round!Dont worry about 'supporting the sun gears' this gearbox doesn't have them (bloody haynes).
If it's the first box you have done on the BX give yourself a day to do it! while youre down there there is a small clear plastic pipe from the security halve (behind the steering rack on the subframe, and one from the N/S strut, they join together behind the gear box and run upto the LHM tank. Check it hasn't gone brittle and if it has use some small tube to run a line from the suspension pipe back to the reservoir, and join the original pipe from the tank to the security valve (you'll understand what i mean while your down there!).
It's a nice easy job to do, but you will get stuck at certain points, eventually you'll get so good you'll wonder why you got stuck the first time, then you'll realise its because this forum taught you how to get round it!

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 04 Jul 2005, 22:04

Remove flywheel and replase the crank oilseal 110x90x7 (mm)

vanny · Unread post by **vanny** » 04 Jul 2005, 22:41

Thats where it goes! Thanks anders, i have one of them and have had for 4 ish years! i knew i was meant to use it when doing the clutch but didnt have a clue thats where it went! i can use it now

Edit
what does the little one do then? something to do with the gear box perhaps?
I guess it would be worth doing the cam oil seal at the same time perhaps?

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 04 Jul 2005, 23:19

62x42x7 crank oilseal at cambelt
50x36x7 cam oil seal (2ea on d/td)
Valid for most xu/xud engines
on xu's with a dizzy there is an O-ring
If you do a search on the dimensions above I bet you get my earlier post(s) on this subject [:p]

czenda · Unread post by **czenda** » 04 Jul 2005, 23:40

Pardon me, AndersDK, what did you mean by "dizzy"? Diesel?
I am afraid I am nearing clutch change as well...[xx(]

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 04 Jul 2005, 23:51

if you dont split O/S susp to allow the O/S shaft to be pulled out you risck bending inteemediate shaft when fighting with gear box,this may be what these vibration stories are all about,also the small seal vanny mentioned might go in centre of flywheel regards malclom

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 05 Jul 2005, 00:00

Sorry Czenda [:I]
Dizzy = Distributor on a petrol engine. Because it is the same size oil seals used on both XU/XUD (petrol/diesel) engines.
Later petrol engines do not have a distributor. They are all electronic.

sketch · Unread post by **sketch** » 05 Jul 2005, 18:40

Thanks for all the answers, but not everything is clear yet as I'm just learning to be a DIY mechanic. Thanks guys!
What are the O/S and N/S? Can somebody please explain?
Vanny, thanks for specifing your method. Haynes gives about the same in the diesel manual except for the radiator removal. I think it is a good thing to remove the radiator too as I'm sure to dent it.
Is it adviseable to flush the radiator and engine cooling system (and get a new pump-gasket) when it is taken out or is this just overkill?
Can the balljoint be undone using regular tools, or should I purchase a balljoint tool?
To summarize the seal changes:
Differential: both sides
Crank and camseals, flywheel side.
What is a good place to get these seals? Citroen dealer or too expensive?
Please bear in mind that I'm a student and would like to keep costs as low as possible

Thank you again for the great advice!
Kind regards,
Tom

mezuk04 · Unread post by **mezuk04** » 05 Jul 2005, 18:49

O/S = Off Side
N/S = Near Side
Off Side = the side of the car which is furthest away from the kerb
Near Side = the side of the car which is closest to the kerb
Unless there are two sets of abbreviations

jeremy · Unread post by **jeremy** » 05 Jul 2005, 18:58

Oh what fun you can have with definitions. I will accept that off and near side change when you drive on the other side of the road BUT in UK we have the steering wheel on the OFF side - or right side of the vehicle facing forward!
Trust this confuses the situation totally
Jeremy

sketch · Unread post by **sketch** » 05 Jul 2005, 19:07

Arghl! Let's just use left and right

vanny · Unread post by **vanny** » 05 Jul 2005, 19:38

but do we use left looking at the front of the car, or left from the drivers seat

YES YES YES flush the rad, and flush the engine (back wash it), and do it the way the haynes says by taking the thermostat housing off. It will cost you around £6 for a new thermostat (or the nearest euro equivalent) and it's well worth spenting the extra ten minutes to do it now rather than later!
As for bending the static intermediary shaft i've always found that since so much goes into the dif, you can put the box in, then put the end of the driveshaft in the dif before offering the gearbox upto the flywheel fully. This way the shaft simply slides further in and out of the way. I dont think i dould put enough force in to bend the intermediary shaft, and certainly not a TD shaft! Just dont get too heavy handed!
Sketch if your lucky then the bottom ball joint will simply pop out if it does, go and buy a lottery ticket! You really need a big long bar, and a proper ball joint spliter. I now have three and the latest one while being the most expensive is by far the easiest and best!

DoubleChevron · Unread post by **DoubleChevron** » 05 Jul 2005, 19:56

I'm doing the same thing at the moment on my old CX... I've been taking lots of pictures (just incase I forget how it goes back together !!!!! ).
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/shane/cx2500 ... lutch1.htm
seeya,
Shane L.