Oil leaking from Pressure Switch stub

[Dormouse]

Has anyone ever heard of problems with oil leaks at the pressure switch cast stub on 2.2 4HV Puma engines? I have used thread tape, Hylomar and Stag and replaced the switch itself and it is still leaking. I have cleaned the area thoroughly and can't see anything obvious. It is definitely coming from the threaded stub area. At first I thought it was the switch itself but I have changed that twice and they are all ok.

Any suggestions?

[CitroJim]

That sort of leak suggests a hairline crack in the casting... Possibly running along the threaded boss...

How big is the leak?

After a good clean, how long does it take for the leak to show? I'm wondering if it's quite soon, a close watch of the area might reveal the source..

[Dormouse]

The leak is pretty much instant now and I suspect a crack but I can't find one so far. It might be porosity - anyone heard of this? The complete housing isn't too expensive and mounted to the block, so, fitting a new one should cure it. I just want to be sure about all the possibilities before I push on. cheers.

[Dormouse]

Looks like the stub is cracked. Sorry there are no pics but I have enough problems getting myself under the van let alone take photos as well.
Ordered a new filter housing/cooler assembly.
Still have no idea why it has chosen to leak now. I will examine it once it is on the bench and after whether I do it or the garage - only 3 bolts and 2 water hoses. How difficult could that be!!! Oh for a ramp and heating.
Where's the Voltarol!

[mickthemaverick]

If you have already ordered the new one this is not much help but I had a similar type leak around a core plug on my Reliant Mk6 and after much swapping and refitting plugs etc still had the same issue. So I mixed up some fibreglass resin and hardener and painted it all over the area and it cured it completely!! Much easier than draining and refitting etc!!

[Dormouse]

Thought about that sort of thing but I decided it was too cold and wet to lie about outside anymore. I am still curious to find out why it has started after all this time. The van has done over 200,000 miles but the engine was a short block replacement at 170,000. It probably didn't get a new filter housing so it is probably the full 14 years old/200,000 m. Hey ho! If it is not one thing, it is another.

[CitroJim]

So I mixed up some fibreglass resin and hardener and painted it all over the area and it cured it completely!!

I once had to fix a diesel injection pump, a Lucas Epic, that had clearly been leaky at one point... The last 'fixer' had neatly applied beads of Araldite to all the external joint faces...

It must have worked for a while but made my job difficult... I had to carefully remove all the Araldite with a hammer and chisel and clean up the mating faces... Took ages! Only time I ever got to dismantle a pump using a small cold chisel

With new gaskets it went on to live again,,,

[Dormouse]

I think I have found the problem. I believe the stub is cracked and I think I have found out why. Too cold and miserable to be outside for any length of time. Pics tomorrow,weather permitting. Plus knees and backs and hips.

[Paul-R]

Plus knees and backs and hips.

Photos of those as well?

[Dormouse]

I have some scary photos of various body bits with signs of distress. Best to be shown after the watershed time so as not to upset the squeamish.

[Dormouse]

My body is like a coiled spring. A busted coil spring. No amount of winding the handle helps.

[Dormouse]

Right. Time for the footie. My favourite team begins with A.

[mickthemaverick]

Right. Time for the footie. My favourite team begins with A.

And ends with A?

[Dormouse]

how observant!

Get back to the footie and the wine gums.

[mickthemaverick]