Depends if yours is a hydractive car or not...Rhothgar wrote: 16 Nov 2022, 20:37 I'll be looking out for this tomorrow Jim.
I guess it comes off the regulator.
Perhaps this also explains why my car feels really bouncy but solid with it like it's on max suspension but it's not?
Repairing a Hydractive Electrovalve...
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CitroJim
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Re: Repairing a Hydractive Electrovalve...
Jim
A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
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Rhothgar
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Re: Repairing a Hydractive Electrovalve...
No it's not. Dommo checked.
I must take a photo of the strut top adapters for you when it is light. I thought I had unless I accidentally deleted it from my phone.
I must take a photo of the strut top adapters for you when it is light. I thought I had unless I accidentally deleted it from my phone.
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Jippington
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Re: Repairing a Hydractive Electrovalve...
Hello!
I know this topic hasn't been discussed in a while but I've had a go at the fix myself by interference fit (heat shrinking) and thought I should share what I've found.
The previous owner had stopped the leak by putting some JB weld around the area and after I went prodding around, I dislodged it and LHM spewed out everywhere. The original condition of the valve was pretty bad so I'm not surprised it leaked.
As precision is very important with interference fits, I did all the machining I could with a collet chuck
For the fit to work, the new collar I machined was 0.04mm bigger internal diameter than the external diameter of the machined valve
I struggled to get the tolerances right even with a digital readout on my lathe so it took me four attempts but I got there eventually. I put the valve back in the collet chuck and faced it off to guarantee a flat surface (the heat from the interference fit can distort the aluminium and it doesn't always go on flush)
I ended up using an ID 14x2.5mm nitrile o-ring and after installing now doesn't leak!
However, the rear of the car doesn't rise unless set to maximum height so I might need to bleed the system now I've removed the valve, and also have a look at the height corrector
I know this topic hasn't been discussed in a while but I've had a go at the fix myself by interference fit (heat shrinking) and thought I should share what I've found.
The previous owner had stopped the leak by putting some JB weld around the area and after I went prodding around, I dislodged it and LHM spewed out everywhere. The original condition of the valve was pretty bad so I'm not surprised it leaked.
As precision is very important with interference fits, I did all the machining I could with a collet chuck
For the fit to work, the new collar I machined was 0.04mm bigger internal diameter than the external diameter of the machined valve
I struggled to get the tolerances right even with a digital readout on my lathe so it took me four attempts but I got there eventually. I put the valve back in the collet chuck and faced it off to guarantee a flat surface (the heat from the interference fit can distort the aluminium and it doesn't always go on flush)
I ended up using an ID 14x2.5mm nitrile o-ring and after installing now doesn't leak!
However, the rear of the car doesn't rise unless set to maximum height so I might need to bleed the system now I've removed the valve, and also have a look at the height corrector
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xantia_v6
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Re: Repairing a Hydractive Electrovalve...
If the suspension responds to the height lever, but won't rise in the normal position, then either the height corrector cradle is seized or the link from the roll bar is broken or maladjusted.
Not a hydraulic problem.
Not a hydraulic problem.
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Jippington
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Re: Repairing a Hydractive Electrovalve...
I sprayed it in rp 90 and couldn't get it to un stick, I've heard people have had success tapping something on it?xantia_v6 wrote: 26 May 2026, 17:11 If the suspension responds to the height lever, but won't rise in the normal position, then either the height corrector cradle is seized or the link from the roll bar is broken or maladjusted.
Not a hydraulic problem.
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xantia_v6
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Re: Repairing a Hydractive Electrovalve...
Which component did you spay?Jippington wrote: 26 May 2026, 19:36
I sprayed it in rp 90 and couldn't get it to un stick, I've heard people have had success tapping something on it?
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Jippington
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Re: Repairing a Hydractive Electrovalve...
Around the height corrector cradles, I think there are some parts that can get stuck like a pivot sleeve or something?xantia_v6 wrote: 26 May 2026, 20:34Which component did you spay?Jippington wrote: 26 May 2026, 19:36
I sprayed it in rp 90 and couldn't get it to un stick, I've heard people have had success tapping something on it?
I'm pretty new to these systems so any advice or tips would be welcome
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xantia_v6
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Re: Repairing a Hydractive Electrovalve...
The usual problem with the height corrector cradle is that the steel shaft runs in nylon bearings and rust from the shaft flakes off and gets embedded in the nylon. It is difficult to clean out unless completely dismantled.
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CitroJim
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Re: Repairing a Hydractive Electrovalve...
Good to see progress with the electrovalve repair
Seeing what you've already done, that will pose you no problems at all...
You may find the hydraulic pipe unions going into the height corrector hydraulic unit will not be happy being disturbed. You need a very good quality flare nut spanner and the usual bi-hex ones won't cut it. I made a custom one using a small hex socket with a slot just wide enough so it could slip over the pipe.
If you don't need to overhaul the hydraulic bit of the height corrector, if memory is not playing tricks on me it can be left dangling on its pipes whilst the cradle is removed for attention. It's a bit of a fiddle as I recall!
It is a good idea to overhaul the height corrector hydraulic part though as their damper elements can get full of rubbery debris, especially if routine LHM changes have been neglected. This leads to them becoming a bit sluggish in operation. There's a guide on how to do it somewhere on this forum.
Whilst you're doing all of this, please take extreme care and ensure the rear end is securely supported. A sudden and unexpected suspension collapse can kill.
Precisely! I've rebuilt a few of these long in the past. My memory is dim now but I have a feeling I needed to make up a new shaft and bearings on the lathe...xantia_v6 wrote: 26 May 2026, 22:51 The usual problem with the height corrector cradle is that the steel shaft runs in nylon bearings and rust from the shaft flakes off and gets embedded in the nylon. It is difficult to clean out unless completely dismantled.
Seeing what you've already done, that will pose you no problems at all...
You may find the hydraulic pipe unions going into the height corrector hydraulic unit will not be happy being disturbed. You need a very good quality flare nut spanner and the usual bi-hex ones won't cut it. I made a custom one using a small hex socket with a slot just wide enough so it could slip over the pipe.
If you don't need to overhaul the hydraulic bit of the height corrector, if memory is not playing tricks on me it can be left dangling on its pipes whilst the cradle is removed for attention. It's a bit of a fiddle as I recall!
It is a good idea to overhaul the height corrector hydraulic part though as their damper elements can get full of rubbery debris, especially if routine LHM changes have been neglected. This leads to them becoming a bit sluggish in operation. There's a guide on how to do it somewhere on this forum.
Whilst you're doing all of this, please take extreme care and ensure the rear end is securely supported. A sudden and unexpected suspension collapse can kill.
Jim
A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
A bit of a Citroen AX fan...