C4 1.6HDI cam box removal

[Allmostfrench]

G’Day Folks,
I’m dismantling my 1.6HDI engine and I’m not sure if the studs that are used to hold the injectors down need to come out to remove the cam box.
The Torx ends on the studs are very small. Do the studs go right through to the head and should I remove them using two nuts backed up to each other?
The Haynes manual is not very clear.
Many thanks in advance.
Chris

[GiveMeABreak]

Removing the camshafts requires removing the injectors, which entails removing the clamps, so yes.

If you pop your VIN up (unless it's the one I have ending in 720, then I might be able to pop a guide up.

[RichardW]

You don't need to remove the studs to remove the injectors, just the nuts. But I don't know if the studs are screwed into just the upper cam carrier, or through into the head. I do know they are very fragile and likely to break off if looked at!!

[MattBLancs]

If it's the 16v 1.6 HDi, then yes I can confirm the studs do need to come out. The shoulder clamps the cam cover down (as well as the normal bolts round the perimeter)

As an added bonus weirdness they are M7 for the bit that injector clamp nut screws down on and, below the shoulder, is M6 screwing into the head!

Yes they can shear off on removal. I used a "manual" impact screwdriver to relatively gently shock them free.

Injector removal can also be a challenge in its own right!

Matt

[Allmostfrench]

Thanks GiveMeABreak!
The VIN is VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]
A guide would be handy!
Having no end of trouble getting M7 nuts in Regional Victoria!
Cheers, Chris
PS Thanks everyone who has helped a lone French Car Nut in regional Australia.
I really do rely on this forum for info and Moral Guidance!

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, here is the guide for you:

C4 DV6TED4 Camshaft Removal & Replacement

[Allmostfrench]

Thanks so much for that, Marc.

[Doo]

Having just had the most fun anyone could have (NOT ) getting the head off, I can guide you through some of the interesting parts.

In the end, the injectors on mine had to be unscrewed and the nozzle cap nuts drilled out using an 18mm Mag Drill HSS Cutter head and a very steady hand on the pillar drill. I think 19mm might be better, but I didn't want to cause damage to the injector sleeves.

Then, I had a local shop do the seats, but ended up buying a seat cutter to do the job a little better

Next, we replaced 2 injectors, but ended up eventually replacing all 4 as I "think" the hammering to get them loose enough to spin out caused some damage as the last remaining injector, while the engine drove beautifully, wouldn't stop leaking fuel.

Upon replacing the injectors, I had to use 3mm copper washers due to the amount of material the seating tool(s) had removed. This is extreme, but it's worth bearing in mind.

While I had the engine apart, I replaced the clutch (the initial cause of removing the engine & box in the 1st place) kit along with crank seals each end as one was bad, the other profuse. The replacements do not require lubrication if they come in a PSA black plastic box as they are specialised seals that use friction sealing (basically the heat from the engine shrinks them to stop any leaks).

I also replaced the timing chain kit. This is a sneaky little chappy as to set the copper coloured links up to correct timing, you have to turn the camshaft cassette upside down

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It's straight forward enough though.

I also replaced the oil cooler, timing belt kit, glow plugs (do these with the head off.... Trust me ), all gaskets & seals, new bolts for the injector mounts, all pressure seals & "O" rings and filters. Use genuine PSA seals & "O" rings as other stuff can be less than reliable. Other stuff, use a good make. I used LUK clutch kit and Dayco belt kit.

The head bolt torque procedure is interesting. I cant recall the torque setting, but they are both torque and angle from memory. They are available online.

The strip down procedure is slightly complicated in that certain things HAVE to come off to get to other things. Just take your time and take photo's to jog your memory. But it is FAR easier to drop the engine & box and do it on the bench as you get access to every single part with ease. I built a square table & mounted swivel wheels so I could twist & turn with ease. These engines are complicated, but actually very easy to work on. I had mine sitting on 5 different shelves, in the load area and rear seats for close on 6 months before the rebuild. Wife used it for a few weeks back & forth to work, then on Thursday, drove it 160 miles without a hint of bother. She said it feels so much better to drive, revs clean & returning excellent mpg again. Happy wife, happy life

If I can think of any more "have to's" I'll let you know.

Good luck

[MattBLancs]

...[tail of woe cut out for fear of inducing flashbacks! ] .....

along with crank seals each end as one was bad, the other profuse. The replacements do not require lubrication if they come in a PSA black plastic box as they are specialised seals that use friction sealing (basically the heat from the engine shrinks them to stop any leaks).

....

glow plugs (do these with the head off.... Trust me

Hadn't heard about the crank seal, how odd! Likely my (cheapest I could find correct dimensions) version doesn't do that. Flywheel end was leaking on mine, other was fine.


Glow plugs, err yes definitely. Will dig out my picture of three and a half glow plugs if anyone remains unconvinced!

Matt

[kingjafad]

Ok, here is the guide for you:

C4 DV6TED4 Camshaft Removal & Replacement

Does anyone know if this guide is still available please? When i click the link it says i am not authorised to view it...... I am logged into the forum fine and have no issues reading other posts and making posts.

Cheers

[mickthemaverick]

Forum donations give you access for up to 2 years. As you donated in 2023 I would suggest you need to update your donation via the donations button above and then you will regain access.