Recalls.

[white exec]

The current drawn by brush-type blower motors is extraordinarily high when operated at maximum speed. IIRC, XM blower pulls around 25A at maximum . . . so about 300W. 25A is the penalty paid for operating such a motor at 12v.

Given this, it's pretty inexcusable, design-wise, to control the fan speed with a series resistance, when electronic control (eg PWM) would generate far less heat.

Worst case, however, is when the blower is set to "near max speed", and so the series resistance has to dissipate considerable heat.

One thing owners can do is to avoid leaving or switching blowers to max speed as soon as the car is started, and for two reasons:
- immediately after an engine start, the alternator output will be very high (to recharge a part-depleted battery), and this raises system voltage, which includes the supply to the blower.
- the starting-up current for these motors is even higher than their running current, and this further aggravates the initial current inrush into the motor, further shortening.
This prolongs motor life.

Best, therefore, to
- avoid leaving blower on max speed
- avoid running blower at 'near max' speed, when a large running current will be being fed through a small section of the resistor
It's under this last condition that maximum resistor heating will occur.

However, nothing excuses the primitive and cheap design of both blower motors and resistive speed control. A prime example of bean-counters at work, resulting in vehicles literally going up in smoke.

[white exec]

Toyota have one of the largest recent historical recalls, iirc. But at least they put their hands up early on, and put things right. In a way, this can encourage some customer loyalty. It seemed to take forever before Peugeot admitted that some of their engines could suddenly lose all power, and Renault that Clio bonnets could blow open.

[Hell Razor5543]

https://offthethrottle.com/the-biggest- ... -all-time/

[Neilied]

Stumbled on this thread after a Google search. Is it possible to post a viewable vin range? I started looking as I get lots of clicking and groaning from the body of the car as if it’s twisting. More worrying is the twang feeling through the pedals when I turn sharply. This worried me as I had a very similar issue on a Saab 9-3. Which turned out to be a missed recall for a split bulkhead due to a weak weld. Wrote my car off.

[Paul-R]

The simplest thing to do is to contact a Citroen dealer and ask if there are any recalls / safety checks outstanding for your registration or VIN.

[GiveMeABreak]

@Neilied: ^ Your vehicle is not showing any outstanding recalls.^

However, I think you may need to hone the noise down a little more specifically if possible, as there are several issues relating to noise:

• Noise at the top of the engine - At idle or at low acceleration
• Clicking noise in the area of ??the front blackout curtains
• Metallic clicking noise in the front
• Axle Clicking or squealing noise in the area of ??the left or right centre pillar
• Slamming noise at the front right on rough roads or when passing obstacles
• Slamming noise, vibration of the headliner in the area of ??the roof console
• Localised creaking noise in the area of ??the right or left rear quarter panel
• Creaking noise, squealing from the front and/or rear door handle
• Creaking noise, sizzling from the centre console trim Squealing
• Noise from the centre
• Pillar Squealing noise from the right or left rear door panel Squealing
• Noise squealing, banging inside, in the right rear part of the vehicle
• Squealing noise from the clutch pedal
• Modulated humming noise at the front right
• Noise Metallic vibration noise heard at the front right
• Brake noise, in reverse - Horn noise (1)
• Brake noise, in reverse gear - Horn noise (2)
• Loop strand noise Front left and / front right seat belt buckle (1)
• Noise of the front left and / front right seat belt buckle blade (2)
• Noise at the rear of the vehicle
• Wheel rolling noises in the passenger compartment

[Neilied]

That is quite a list. The annoying creaking noises seem to come from the windows and roof as if the car is flexing when I turn. The pedal one is the worry. No noise to hear but like some one plucks a bow felt through the pedals when turning. So similar to my old Saab issue. Tried turning lock to lock whilst stationary and no movement in the pedals which unlike the Saab on test the pedals would rock side to side.