Outer CV boot replacement

[Wookey]

Outer CV boot has split on my 1997 expert, and embarrassingly I didn't notice before sending it in for the MOT so that was a fail. Peugeot out of stock so I have a universal boot to replace it with. Now I've done this before but it's been a few years. The Russek book is rather useless and says "We recommend taking it to a workshop and getting it overhauled or buy a new one". What sort of attitude is that? It's not that hard!

My question is which end do I separate the splined circlip joint (it is one of those on this van right?) Russek says "the replacement of the gaiter on the wheel side also requires the replacement of the gaiter on the transmission side", so I'm guessing I have to take that gaiter off, or at least release the narrow end, then it should be possible to separate the two halves. There is probably some relevant advice to avoid damaging anything and it not being too much of a pain. In my vague recollection is was actually very easy to get the splined end to come out? Do I need to get the whole boot out of the way and squeeze the circlip for easy separation?

I've done the rest of the job of getting the nut and hub off and draining the gearbox oil so I can pull the driveshaft out. Is it possible to pop the spline out whilst leaving the driveshaft in the gearbox, just to avoid the seal replacement? Presumably much more hassle than it's worth and getting thole thing out onto the workbench will be much easier?

It is _so_ nice working on a bit that was only in bits a few months ago so my hub nut and the various attachment bolts all came off nice and easily due to replacing the suspension arm only last year.

I've only bought the outer boot (that was £39 which seemed a bit steep). Do I _really_ have to do the inner one too, assuming I can get the shaft out without damaging it? this van probably only has to last another year so I don't mind taking a punt and having to take it all to bits again next year if need be.

[Peter.N.]

If its the same as most others you can get the CV joint off the shaft by holding the shaft and giving the joint a sharp clout with a fairly heavy hammer outwards, after removing the boot of course, slide it up the shaft. I'm not a fan of universal gaiters, get the proper one if you can, there lots on Ebay but you need to check the size, both the outside diameter of the joint and the shaft.

Peter

Have a look through these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... &_osacat=0

[20th Century Pug]

Given the importance of the boot in keeping out road grit, the book recommends you replace both while you have everything apart. If the boot splits while you are on a touring holiday, the drive shaft will be toast by the time you get home. That said, it is usually the outer that splits as that gets all the steering movement. Just clean the oil off the inner and carefully check for any cracking in the folds. If it is in good condition, I would be happy keeping it in service on my own car. Do get the stainless steel straps and tightening tool - the plastic cable ties they supply in universal boot kits are useless.

As Peter says, you can usually remove the outer joint in situ. Just make sure it is properly seated when you put it all back together - there should be a distinct click. When you have finished and the car is resting on it's wheels, the driveshaft should have a few mm endfloat on the splines.

[Wookey]

My universal kit came with (2 sets of) the proper metal bands (and 2 lots of 80g of grease - not sure why). I don't have the special winding/cutting tool for tightening those bands but managed to do what I think is a reasonable job using pliers, a screwdriver to brace and a needlenose to tighten it up a bit more.
The shaft did indeed 'pop off' reasonably easy with a couple of good thumps with a 2.5lb lumphammer. (I had a look on youtube for some good examples of how to to do it).
There was a fair amount of rust under the edge of the boot which fell into the grease so I had to clean it all out and start again (probably a good idea anyway, but messy and I got through a lot of rags!). The trickiest bit is pushing the ends of the circlip in when reassembling because everything is hidden by a great deal of grease!
Actually the trickist bit is getting the damn oil seal out of the final drive. I made a nice little tool to adapt my slide hammer to a couple of screws in the seal but it bent before the seal came moved so I had to make a much manlier one with some angle iron. That did the trick.

The split in the boot was tiny - actually very hard to find/see once cleaned up. So it was letting grease out but almost certainly not dirt in, so the joint should last a few more miles (164000 so far). And I guess the original boot lasted that long too.

I presume the outer boot kit came with 2 sets of stuff in case you have to remove the inner boot to get the outer one on, so you need to regrease and reband that too?

Anyway, all done and reassembled, with two new tyres so I expect an MOT pass next week. Wasn't the 'vintage car' thing 25 years old when it first started (or was it 30?). The van will qualify for 25 this year.

[20th Century Pug]

Well done. Sounds like you caught it just in time. Grease oozing out & spattered on suspension components is often the first warning sign.

Classic car status for tax exemption is now rolling 40 years. Even I have another 6 years to wait!